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HK1837 Offline
#1 Posted : Tuesday, 10 July 2018 7:04:20 AM(UTC)
HK1837

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Just looking for what is the latest (or old but best) ideas on what to spray/pour inside the HK's quarters, doors and other hidden nooks before I seal it with interior. I know I can get to other spots later (like access from the boot area, or spray into the sills from clip holes or drain holes) but some of it is best done now while there is zero trim in it other than the headlining. What i'm talking about is mainly behind rust repair sections especially areas like in the quarter between the door and the wheel.

In years gone by I've used fish oil and Tectyl, but this was over 20 years ago, only had new cars since. My HJ Premier was done by James Rustproofing in Newcastle when it was new and it has never had rust and been a coastal car all its life, so whatever that was it must have been good!

On my hatchback I used Fertan (phosphoric acid) and let it dry, this was to convert any surface rust that may have been lurking, then fish oil. But the car stunk for months. Having said that though this Monaro won't be driven for another year at best, so the smell should go by then if fish oil is the best.

Any suggestions?
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HK1837 Offline
#2 Posted : Tuesday, 10 July 2018 4:43:41 PM(UTC)
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I was recommended this stuff today:

https://knockout-rust.com.au
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KBM Offline
#3 Posted : Tuesday, 10 July 2018 7:06:41 PM(UTC)
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lanolin and fish oil have been used for many good products. lanox is excellent for rust proofing and lube and is basically made up of those two ingredients. add that to bitumen and sounds like a product our dads would've bought back when... 5lt looks like it's worth a try. saying that after I rust repaired my van I coated it with bitumas black, which is used for sealing water tanks and retaining walls.

Edited by user Tuesday, 10 July 2018 7:11:46 PM(UTC)  | Reason: more info

HK1837 Offline
#4 Posted : Tuesday, 10 July 2018 7:18:48 PM(UTC)
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I emailed them and asked if it is fit for my purpose, and rather than blow smoke up their own product they told me to get a can and try it, and offered the advice that it will penetrate seams and double metal areas like fish oil does but won't drip out forever and re-drip on hot days like fish oil does. Sounds like it is worth a go. I'll put all the black plugs in the door frame perimeter first and spray it and see how it goes in there before I cut loose in the quarters.
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castellan Offline
#5 Posted : Wednesday, 11 July 2018 11:39:28 AM(UTC)
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Penetrol maybe good for un rusted steel.
I have no rust in any of my cars.

But there was a product a mate used for his old HK Monaro it went over and sealed rust in he said, so you cut back what rust you could and the little bits that you could not truly deal with, you hit it with this stuff, but it was very expensive, his 2ed car he did he asked to use that same stuff and the dude doing it refused said it was to expensive, mate said he did not give a fook but old mate refused saying what he was using was good enough.
Premier 350 Offline
#6 Posted : Wednesday, 11 July 2018 12:53:45 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: castellan Go to Quoted Post
Penetrol maybe good for un rusted steel.
I have no rust in any of my cars.

But there was a product a mate used for his old HK Monaro it went over and sealed rust in he said, so you cut back what rust you could and the little bits that you could not truly deal with, you hit it with this stuff, but it was very expensive, his 2ed car he did he asked to use that same stuff and the dude doing it refused said it was to expensive, mate said he did not give a fook but old mate refused saying what he was using was good enough.


POR-15, is the stuff you're thinking of? Eastwood also make an encapsulator. Not sure how effective they'll be for your application. Plan B: Tectyl. Valvoline sell an aerosol version, or theres the company website.



http://www.tectylproduct...bout_tectylproducts.html
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nineteenfortyeight Offline
#7 Posted : Sunday, 22 July 2018 8:30:24 AM(UTC)
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My HG Ute was done with Fisholene back in 1970 according to the 2nd owner. He bought it when it was 11 months old in 71 when his work mate couldn't afford the repayments and immediately hit the rear quarters, doors and guards with Fisholene. The only rust I found in it was under the rear screen rubber and that was repaired about 9 years ago.
I have used 'Fish Oil' which I think is not the same as 'Fisholene'. I have no idea if it is as good as Fisholene though. Anyone else used Fish OIl?

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HK1837 Offline
#8 Posted : Sunday, 22 July 2018 8:42:14 AM(UTC)
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I bought some of the Ferguson's knockout rust (see post 2) and will try it.
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albyht Offline
#9 Posted : Saturday, 22 September 2018 7:43:25 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: nineteenfortyeight Go to Quoted Post
My HG Ute was done with Fisholene back in 1970 according to the 2nd owner. He bought it when it was 11 months old in 71 when his work mate couldn't afford the repayments and immediately hit the rear quarters, doors and guards with Fisholene. The only rust I found in it was under the rear screen rubber and that was repaired about 9 years ago.
I have used 'Fish Oil' which I think is not the same as 'Fisholene'. I have no idea if it is as good as Fisholene though. Anyone else used Fish OIl?



I Have a HT. I've had it for 25 years. I live near the beach too (walking distance) and I surf so the car gets plenty of salt air. Ive only ever used fish oil. My car was stored for over 12 years until recently and i didnt touch it in that time. When I pulled it out to put back on the road, I couldn't believe it. Absolutely NO rust anywhere. I pulled off the door cards last year to re apply the fish oil. No Rust. I usually block up the drain holes for a couple of weeks before clearing them. (Put a bit of cardboard down underneath the drips) I have also drilled a bigger hole under the scuff plates to allow spray to get in the sills. Yes, it stinks for a few weeks but so what?? I use 2 cans on the car, do the undercarriage, Y frames, inside the dog legs from the boot and I dont skimp. Why would you when to rust proof the car costs less than $15? I do this at least once every 2 years.
Alby
wbute Offline
#10 Posted : Tuesday, 25 September 2018 9:55:34 AM(UTC)
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How do you prevent rust in places like the three layers of steel in a plenum chamber cowl. I know you can get to the actual chamber but you can’t get anything in between the layers and that’s a major rust trap for HQ-WB.
Why were the drain holes in the beaver panel on a HQ-WB commercial blocked up with some sort of putty? Both the ones I had were like this from the factory. Was it meant to be removed by the dealer?

Edited by user Tuesday, 25 September 2018 9:56:24 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

HK1837 Offline
#11 Posted : Tuesday, 25 September 2018 12:21:40 PM(UTC)
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Plenum bad bit is two layers. Originally they put a line of sealant close to the plenum chamber where you can get you hands into and whacked the cowl on top meaning no body dip or paint made it into the very ends (closest to the doors). There is a small gap in between the cowl and plenum panels, maybe 1-3mm. If you drill a 3mm hole or two in the vertical section of the cowl panel next to the door, that is revealed when you open the door you can squeeze a “straw” in there attached to a pressure pack nozzle (like some come with) and spray into that area. If done right the straw may even be able to be pushed up into the gap between the panels. Once all settled down seal the holes with some sealant and if needed touch up with some paint daubs.
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wbute Offline
#12 Posted : Wednesday, 26 September 2018 2:59:29 PM(UTC)
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Yeah that seems like potluck. Best bet is to leave the good ones inland, otherwise there will be none left in 25 years time.
HK1837 Offline
#13 Posted : Wednesday, 26 September 2018 3:09:35 PM(UTC)
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It’s about the best you can do with an original one.
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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