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Devo Offline
#1 Posted : Tuesday, 7 May 2019 10:46:30 PM(UTC)
Devo

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Hey guys.
Just rebuilding my crossmember after a strip down and paint. Now I have gone to fit the upper control arm by installing the two bolts attaching the shaft but they bottom out leaving the shaft loose....
Now I may have lost the caster/camber shims but I thought it should be able to tighten up with no shims surely.
Have I missed something or mixed the bolts up ??
Both L/H and R/H are the same.
Any ideas ?

Thanks.
gm5735 Offline
#2 Posted : Wednesday, 8 May 2019 9:34:32 AM(UTC)
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Yes, they do that. The bolts are not fully threaded (some may argue that "bolts" are by definition not fully threaded, but "machine screws" are) presumably so the shims, when installed, don't bear on the thread.
Dr Terry Offline
#3 Posted : Wednesday, 8 May 2019 1:36:58 PM(UTC)
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Yes, the way I was taught was that 'normal' bolts are not fully threaded, but those that have threads all the way to the head are called 'set screws'.

These front ends are set up to require shims. If they are all removed you end up with way too much positive camber.

Dr Terry
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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Oldolden on 11/05/2019(UTC), KeithA on 12/05/2019(UTC)
HK1837 Offline
#4 Posted : Wednesday, 8 May 2019 1:50:27 PM(UTC)
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Agree. Standard BHP Apprenticeship training: bolt has a neck or shank, full thread is a set screw.

From memory the original distinction has little to do with the presence of a neck/shank though, just the form of the bolt in a bolted connection is far stronger than if a fully threaded fastener was used.. A bolt has a nut, and to fasten it up the bolt stays still and the nut is turned, whereas a (set) screw is turned (screwed) into a thread to fasten it. The thread is normally contained within what is being fastened.

Edited by user Wednesday, 8 May 2019 1:51:31 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Spelling

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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KeithA on 12/05/2019(UTC)
KBM Offline
#5 Posted : Wednesday, 8 May 2019 3:55:59 PM(UTC)
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I'd put a couple of shims, say a thick and a thin, on all four bolts. That is nowhere near correct alignment but will get you to the tyre place for a front alignment without damaging the bolts. Probably safer to use old tyres as they will probably scrub out a bit depending on distance.
Ausjacko Offline
#6 Posted : Wednesday, 8 May 2019 6:07:00 PM(UTC)
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I used two shims each bolt on both sides to address the issue you described. At least I knew it was the same and avoids what you have seen. If you don't have the original shims any steering place will have something similar.
HK1837 Offline
#7 Posted : Wednesday, 8 May 2019 6:18:25 PM(UTC)
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There are repros on Ebay in different thicknesses.
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
Devo Offline
#8 Posted : Friday, 10 May 2019 10:21:10 PM(UTC)
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Cheers guys . I have a few shims heading my way.ive had a few weird things going on. You basically have 6 bolts per side.
2 on the upper control arm shaft
2 on the steering arm
2 to connect the calliper.

All are roughly the same length but the 2 steering arm ones need to be longer to accommodate a nut/washer.

Me feels something may have been mixed up when i sent away for plating.
Maybe I bagged em up wrong. Confusing the crap out of me.
Dr Terry Offline
#9 Posted : Saturday, 11 May 2019 9:15:07 AM(UTC)
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Hi Devo

Yes they all have the same 7/16" UNF thread, but are different lengths.

My listing says;

Upper arm pivot bolts - 1-5/8" long
Caliper mount bolts - 1-3/8" long
Steering arm bolts - 2-3/8" long

Dr Terry
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
Devo Offline
#10 Posted : Saturday, 11 May 2019 11:06:22 AM(UTC)
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That makes more sense.
Thanks
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