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#1 Posted : Thursday, 21 September 2006 4:33:11 AM(UTC)
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After all your great advice re head bolts I've decided to stick with my current motor (still hemi dreamin'...). Now I've run into a small snag. They say the only dumb question is one you never ask- Let's test that theory...

I'm replacing the cam & trying to get the harmonic balancer off to do so, but the bolt in the centre (into the crank) refuses to budge. Can I confirm it's not a left hand thread, & what are some tricks from stopping the motor turning while trying to undo it? At the moment it's in gear, with the park brake on & climbing a set of car ramps.

The Beige Hornet.
Dylan Offline
#2 Posted : Thursday, 21 September 2006 5:10:12 AM(UTC)
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if it is a manual leaving it in gear with the hand brake on should be enough.

how big is your breaker bar? 600mm (2 foot) is a good length to have, make sure you use good single hex impact sockets.
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#3 Posted : Thursday, 21 September 2006 5:49:16 AM(UTC)
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mate take it from me, ive had a lot of pain in this field. it is sooooo much easier to pull the engine out to do this, supercheap auto sells stands for 69 bucks, and even if you got the balancer off, the timing gear is a bitch and you wont be able to pull
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#4 Posted : Thursday, 21 September 2006 10:59:35 AM(UTC)
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Take the gearbox cover plate off and jam a screwdriver or bar in the teeth of the flywheel.
You will never undo a really tight bolt by just the handbrake and in gear, there is too much flexibility in the driveline.
To pull the camshaft you need to remov
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#5 Posted : Thursday, 21 September 2006 9:40:46 PM(UTC)
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Thanks guys. Have radiator removed etc to allow the cam to come out when I can get into it. Bar is about half a metre with an impact socket & I can see the bar flex when I lean into it. Still couldn't get it with the missus in the car with her foot on the
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#6 Posted : Friday, 22 September 2006 8:01:46 AM(UTC)
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Try a sharp belt with a big hammer it may jar it loose.But if the bar with the socket is too long it may flex/absorb the impact, but also you could try fixing the socket handle to lean against the chassis and give it a quick crank with the starter motor,
666 Offline
#7 Posted : Friday, 22 September 2006 8:41:13 AM(UTC)
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Big Horn,

As JP said, a good sharp hit with a hammer will send a shock wave down the thread to separate the embedment, loctite or rust between the mating threads.
If your doing it from a distance (ie 500mm) you will need a good solid punch @ 30-40mm r

Edited by user Friday, 22 September 2006 8:43:13 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

666
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#8 Posted : Monday, 25 September 2006 1:17:39 AM(UTC)
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May have the morning free tomorrow to try all of the above. I'll let you know how I go, but I'm not keen on removing the motor, because if I try these tricks (& a few more) on the stand the whole lot ends up on the floor. Been there before & it's messy.
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#9 Posted : Monday, 25 September 2006 5:50:32 PM(UTC)
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Hi Guys.

Best way mentioned so far it to lock the flywheel/ring-gear teeth, with a large screwdriver & then use a long (at least 2 metre) lever. I haven't seen a balancer bolt that will resist that.

It hasn't been mentioned so far, but if the motor
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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#10 Posted : Monday, 25 September 2006 7:02:11 PM(UTC)
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Yup, Its a 308. Should be easy once I get this Freakin' bolt undone!

The Beige Hornet.
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