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Guys and Girls
looking for a bit of advice on painting acrylic satin black. I am doing some work on the HK in the garage After filling, sanding, filling, sanding, prepsol cleaning and laid down what looked to be a good coat off the gun. When wet looked ok. Tonight when I go out to the shed the paint looks ok from a distance but the surface is rough, not smooth.I will rub back with 240 then 400 and do it again but what did I do wrong. If you haven't guessed it I am not a painter
Cheers
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Bid hard to know what you did wrong without looking at the paint, the surface and the finished product. Your descriptions may be very accurate, but a painter needs to see with his eyes to know. It is experience and gut instinct that makes it all happen. |
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You didn't mention any use of a sealer coat first up.
Sand it back with 320 or 400 wet and dry with a little detergent in the water, dry it off and prepsol, then apply a sealer coat wet and evenly applied. Then sand it back with 600 grade wet and dry a
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Acrylic Paint always finishes up a bit rough off the can thats why you have to compound it. And Satin will always look a bit flat, that's why it's called satin.
240 and 400 are a bit fierce in my inexperienced opinion. go to 800 or so to get a dead smoot
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If you do what ozchevy and johnperth said to do the paint should look great.The more course the grit the deeper the scratchs it leaves behind -the more sanding you do to remove the scratchs you left behind. But do not colour sand too soon if you can avoid
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Thanks Guys. In talking to a mate at work I think that I put the coats on "too Dry", like not wet enough as I was paranoid about going on too thick and getting runs. I will sand it back with 800 and give it a go again, also paying closer attention to the
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The only other thing I would add to my comments above, is watch the humidity at the time of spraying, especially with flat acrylics. If the humidity is above 60% use a retarder in the paint, around 15-20%.
You must apply wet coats of colour.
On the subj
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Johnperth,
The 320 grade is only to remove what he has already sprayed in the colour - before applying a sealer first, your right with the use of 800 or above for the buff sanding after the colour coats have been applied. Always use of detergent in the w
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You don't have to use sealer unless the base products are unstable. You don't have to use detergent in the water when coloursanding unless the paint is soft due to incomplete curing. You don't have to leave the paint for 6 months to cure, depending on the |
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Peter,
the bloke has said, he's laid a coat of paint over filler yer?
That to me suggests he should have used a sealer of some sort, wheather it be a Hi-fil, primer/surfacer or any other type of sealer suitable to acrylic paint systems. Given the fact h
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gents
I used a acrylic primer/undercoat over the filler, mind you no huge amout of bog. sprayed a hi fill, then rubbed it back, then anothe coat of primer, rubbed back then started to satin black. After rubbing back now with 600 I am about to re mask and
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I am only saying what does not "have" to be done.
Yes I have a bit more experience. I still painted my EH 9 years ago in a garge with no heatlamps or fans in acrylic with a suction gun. 3 coats coloursand rubbed it down after 3 days drying between coat |
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respray went ok. I applied the paint a bit slower, thus a bit "wetter". came up pretty good
thanks guys
ted
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