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doing the electronic distributor conversion so my carby does not suit the vacuum system. so i believe i need a different base with the vacuum pipe.
Am i right is there something else to do
Also need the sensor that goes on the thermo housing.
Thanks.
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Not quite getting the picture johnperth.
What engine, what carby & what distributor ?
Dr Terry |
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If it is an auto you can use manifold vacuum. |
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The reason for my question was, if he is only changing the distributor, what's wrong with the current vacuum set-up ?
Dr Terry |
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Sorry guys. Just realised the keyboard on my laptop has suddenly gone mad won't print out the letter that comes after J so the car is an 85 auto blac 202 motor. Distributor is off a blue motor.
I have the christmas tree on the rear of the manifold can I take a feed off that
damn won't do question mar's either
I was under the impression feed had to come off the base of the carby.
Now I have to fix the so and so computer too. rats.
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The quick solution would be to do what HK1837 said, just run the vacuum directly from the inlet manifold & reset the idle speed & mixture.
Another solution would be to use a VC/VH Varajet which has a ported vacuum outlet.
Dr Terry |
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You don't want ported vacuum for an auto Terry. The pollution gear on these would originally used a combination of effective ported and vacuum advance by the EST ECU, IIRC full vacuum was only obtained when in top gear and block warm and water warm. The cars with this setup (be it all manual like HX on or EST like VK carby 3.3) had a throttle nudger solenoid to increase the idle speed - on earlier auto cars the dizzy vacuum advance did this for you.
So after all that, to make it properly emissions compliant you'd need all the senders, solenoids, wiring etc off an auto WB/VC/VH along with the dizzy and carby. If it was me I'd just use the manifold vacuum and play dumb if asked. |
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Originally Posted by: HK1837  You don't want ported vacuum for an auto Terry. The pollution gear on these would originally used a combination of effective ported and vacuum advance by the EST ECU, IIRC full vacuum was only obtained when in top gear and block warm and water warm. The cars with this setup (be it all manual like HX on or EST like VK carby 3.3) had a throttle nudger solenoid to increase the idle speed - on earlier auto cars the dizzy vacuum advance did this for you.
So after all that, to make it properly emissions compliant you'd need all the senders, solenoids, wiring etc off an auto WB/VC/VH along with the dizzy and carby. If it was me I'd just use the manifold vacuum and play dumb if asked. I don't agree. I've done this conversion many times & have found the the Varajet is happier at idle without vacuum. Early cars (HK/HQ) ran fairly rich at idle, so they 'liked' vacuum at idle in drive, but the later (leaner) carburettors don't seem to. The way I set it up was to use a 3-port TVS with both ported & manifold vacuum switchable in case of an overheat, basically the way earlier Commodores came from the factory. Dr Terry |
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The full vacuum at idle for an auto is to overcome the torque converter, manuals don't need it. That is why I'd simply use the manifold vacuum. Most carbs had a manual and auto version for this reason until canisters appeared in 1/75, and the difference in those carbs was the vacuum advance port on the carby.
Agree that carbs set for lean idle can get hot and using extra vacuum to speed up the idle works. IIRC we first saw this on a Holden or Statesman with the clean air 350's that appeared around 8/73 with the temperature switch in the radiator hose I think it was. |
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