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holden05 Offline
#1 Posted : Sunday, 27 February 2022 1:33:42 PM(UTC)
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Just trying to remove from booster
All lines clean and mount bolts removed
Soaked mating surfaces in Wd pentrator
But won’t budge
Any tips?
202tonner Offline
#2 Posted : Sunday, 27 February 2022 4:03:18 PM(UTC)
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Rubber mallet from the side maybe.
I've never used them but maybe one of the foaming cleaners.
Or soak it a bit longer with the penetrating fluid.
Good luck.
HK-Q-Z5.0Lfan Offline
#3 Posted : Tuesday, 1 March 2022 6:03:33 PM(UTC)
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Probably a silly question (I hope) but, have you undone the stay bracket at front of m/cyl that mounts it to the strut tower?
Sandaro Offline
#4 Posted : Tuesday, 1 March 2022 10:18:09 PM(UTC)
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Undone from the pedal?
Dr Terry Offline
#5 Posted : Wednesday, 2 March 2022 7:01:54 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: Sandaro Go to Quoted Post
Undone from the pedal?


I think that the OP wants to remove the m/cyl only & leave the booster intact.

I think it will be just frozen with corrosion or whatever.

202tonner is on the money, a little encouragement with a rubber mallet would help, once everything is disconnected.

Dr Terry

Edited by user Wednesday, 2 March 2022 7:16:25 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
holden05 Offline
#6 Posted : Wednesday, 2 March 2022 6:38:56 PM(UTC)
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Thanks guys, other question i have is when I get it out I’m going to have a crack at rebuilding it. Ive got the seal kit for it
From what I can see all I’m replacing is 4 cup seals, reservoir grommets, plug o ring. Sound right?
holden05 Offline
#7 Posted : Saturday, 5 March 2022 2:28:53 PM(UTC)
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Tried the rubber mallet on the side but still couldn’t budge it
Balfizar Offline
#8 Posted : Saturday, 5 March 2022 6:52:25 PM(UTC)
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Hang the M/C up from a bolt in the front of the m/c.
PUT THE 2 mounting bolt nuts on a couple of turns
alternately tap the nuts with a hammer.

Edited by user Saturday, 5 March 2022 7:00:56 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

holden05 Offline
#9 Posted : Saturday, 5 March 2022 8:52:02 PM(UTC)
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My thoughts are to screw a longer bolt in the front of the master cyl and lock it with a nut
Then tap the head of the bolt with a chisel towards the front of the car. Only thing I’m concerned is that it might stuff the thread in the front of the master???

Edited by user Sunday, 6 March 2022 4:17:55 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

202tonner Offline
#10 Posted : Wednesday, 9 March 2022 6:44:07 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: holden05 Go to Quoted Post
My thoughts are to screw a longer bolt in the front of the master cyl and lock it with a nut
Then tap the head of the bolt with a chisel towards the front of the car. Only thing I’m concerned is that it might stuff the thread in the front of the master???


I'd be worried about stripping the thread too. If the MC is corroded on that tightly it may be tighter than the thread is strong.

Try using a clamp as a spreader between the mudguard and the MC. Put a fair bit of pressure on it but don't try to loosen the MC with it, then reapply penetrating fluid. The idea is to flex the join just enough so the fluid can get in there through tiny gaps. Check the next day for any looseness in the clamp and spread it a little more if there has been movement. Or add more penetrating fluid for a couple of days.

Or once the MC is under a bit of pressure from the spreader clamp (you could use a small screw jack instead if that works better for you) you could give it a few more taps with a hammer. I wouldn't hit the MC directly with the hammer. Use a short length of broom handle/bit of wood and place that against the MC and hit the other end of the wood.
Couple of options:
Tap the end of the MC. This gives you better leverage against the sticky part. If unsuccessful, soak, spread and tap again the next day.
Or hit the base of the MC near the booster. You can hit fairly hard here because everything is fairly solid.
Either way have the retaining nuts on loosely or the MC may go flying!

Personally, I would hit hard downwards right by the booster. Use a piece of 2mm thick ally or similar. Put this on the base of the MC and rest a steel rod, a bit of reo rod would do but flatten the end of it, against it. This will stop the steel marking the MC. Hit the other end with the biggest hammer you have. You are not trying to remove the whole MC, just knock it down 1 or 2 mm to loosen it, so give it a hard tap without any follow-through rather than hit it at full stretch.

Ain't working on old cars fun!!Brick wall
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