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basketcase and the art of reading a multimeter
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quote:
Originally posted by bosko
check ammeter is working and you know how to measure current
get an automotive type globe, preferably in an old socket with a couple of wires hanging out
sett multimeter to DC amps
connect black probe to batt +, connect red probe to one globe wire. connect other globe wire to batt neg
check for reading on ammeter of around an amp or 2
ok ammeter works and you know how to use it.
turn off ignition, headlights, any other major power items
disconnect batt+ lead
connect black probe to batt +, red probe to + battery LEAD
check for any current
if there is current flow then something is drawing power
if there is no reading, turn on interior light (or similar NOT headlights) and make sure you get a reading.
if ammeter works correctly and goes to 0 with interior light off you have no leakage
cheers for writing that saved me doing it :)
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Maybe contact a local auto spark? One that does home visits. Saves burning anything down. As much as I like a good burn, I get paid for it, you probably dont like to see your bus burn. Utility8  |
utility8
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BCB, A good way to think about electrics, is to actually think like its a water or plumbing circuit. Voltage = Force Current or Amps = Flow Say for example you have a 2000 ltr water tank and a 1/2" hose connected to a tap at the bottom of the tank, when you open the tap water will flow as head pressure will force it out. If you pressurise the top of the tank the flow will be increased. The same goes for an increase in voltage, more current will flow. If you connect a larger diameter hose to this tank, the flow rate will also increase because the resistance has dropped. The same is true if you use a large gauge wire when moving current. The larger the wire the more current you can move through it without damaging the wire. Edited by user Saturday, 23 May 2009 7:24:09 AM(UTC)
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also a multimeter is not very practical for reading a battery as it does not put any load on the battery, the battery could be nearly dead and the meter could still read 12volts.
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quote:
Originally posted by johnperth
also a multimeter is not very practical for reading a battery as it does not put any load on the battery, the battery could be nearly dead and the meter could still read 12volts.
actually it puts a massive load on the battery, usually in the region of 1 million to 10 million ohms a fully charged battery should have around 12.65V 50% charged 12.3V dead flat 11.9V
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i think you are being far too technological for me,
sheesh,,flow and volts, and water tanks, and pipe sizes,,,hehe
i gave up trying to even bother to learn about elecs, after the last time i fried my pliers and nearly me,,doing a reno. it was the sparks who said that wing was dead!!! still got the pliers, mounted on my wall.
anyways i bet the windscreen wiper motors i have used for my wind ip elec windows should not be touching the body?
anyways as there is no auto lecs around here, just wanted to figure it out myself, before i get a new battery, will follow all your incredibly brilliant instructions, superbly written, and even a basketcase will be able to do this,,, tomorrow
cheers
bcb
it was but yesterday, i thought myself a fragment, quivering without rythum in the sphere of life.
now i know i am the sphere, and all of life quivers in rythmic fragments, within me!
kg. |
more than basketcase than a bear!
DOH!!! |
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i would check your battery level as bosko said. Gives a good indication of the baterys state.
4 reading the current draw go 4 the over all with everything turned off like normal. Disconect pos batery terminal then conect your meter 4 amps red lead from ur meter in the 10amp hole and the black lead from comon to the batery lead. This gives the power a path to follow. And if there is power usage it wil show up
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quote:
Originally posted by bosko
quote:
Originally posted by johnperth
also a multimeter is not very practical for reading a battery as it does not put any load on the battery, the battery could be nearly dead and the meter could still read 12volts.
actually it puts a massive load on the battery, usually in the region of 1 million to 10 million ohms
a fully charged battery should have around 12.65V
50% charged 12.3V
dead flat 11.9V
Thanks for that princess, Ill go put that battery load tester in the bin. Never really liked it anyhow as it seemed a brutal way of doing it, a bit like hooking the KE10 up to a 20 laden trailer and doing a hill start.
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quote:
Originally posted by bosko
actually it puts a massive load on the battery, usually in the region of 1 million to 10 million ohms
Quite the opposite. 1 meg or 10 meg are very small loads. A large load would be created by 1 or 2 ohms. The lower the resistance, the higher the current. The higher the current, the larger the load. Dr Terry. Edited by user Saturday, 23 May 2009 5:55:35 PM(UTC)
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If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0 |
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quote:
Originally posted by Dr Terry
Quite the opposite. 1 meg or 10 meg are very small loads.
A large load would be created by 1 or 2 ohms. The lower the resistance, the higher the current. The higher the current, the larger the load.
Dr Terry.
thanks, makes much better sense
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IIEE, KARUMBA.
it vorks, its alive..
i do not have any leakages in my curcuitry,, just goes to show!!
so must be 3 possibilities>>
1. battery cactus
2. not running it enough to charge up enough
3. batt terminals are losing connection over time? as mostly they are not fully tightened up mostly.
thanks you all
great help
bcb
p.s.
might go and get a job as an auto elec now!!
doh!
it was but yesterday, i thought myself a fragment, quivering without rythum in the sphere of life.
now i know i am the sphere, and all of life quivers in rythmic fragments, within me!
kg. |
more than basketcase than a bear!
DOH!!! |
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stands to reason there is not much load, just look at the wires on a multimeter, if you ran more than about 12 amps they would fry. and the innards of a multimeter are scarcely highly robust.
look at the size of the battery leads, thats the sort of cables you need to put a decentload on the battery.
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