Notification

Icon
Error

Login


Take the time to read our Privacy Policy.

peter_flane Offline
#1 Posted : Monday, 13 July 2009 8:03:48 AM(UTC)
peter_flane

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Veteran
Joined: 22/05/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,384

If I have definitely got a melted wire due to exhaust heat. That being the ones to the alternator. As I understand, there are two wires, one being the main power out of the alternator to the battery, and the other being for the ALT' light.

The symptoms I have are as such. If the ignition is on, the ALT light is on, then when it is running the ALT light is out. That is all good. However if I turn the ignition off, the ALT light stays on.

So could this just mean simply that the main power and ALT light wires have melted together?

http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
ozchevy Offline
#2 Posted : Monday, 13 July 2009 9:04:58 AM(UTC)
ozchevy

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/10/2005(UTC)
Posts: 495

Hi Pete,

No it does not necessaraly mean those two cables are in contact with each other. It may be another wire in the harness. You need to trace the Alt light circuit. Most likely cause though will be a blown diode in the alternater allowing current to go either way.
gts308 Offline
#3 Posted : Monday, 13 July 2009 10:16:51 AM(UTC)
gts308

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 8/06/2009(UTC)
Posts: 217

I take it you have a inbuilt regulator if you only have two wires on the alternator.

Normaly the way the light circuit works is when the key is on 12v is put to one side of your "ALT" light and the otherside will be grounded out at the alternator making the light glow.
When the alternator is charging the wire from the alternator to the light becomes 12v as well making the light go out because the globe has 12v both sides.

With the key off there should be no power to the "ALT" light at all.
The "ALT" light curcuit should run through a fuse, just check to make sure that fuse in question only has power to it when the key is on. A wire might have melted behind the fuse panel giving that fuse a constant 12v.

"We are but a grain of sand on the beach of life"

Edited by user Monday, 13 July 2009 10:26:21 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

"We are but a grain of sand on the beach of life"
greenhj Offline
#4 Posted : Monday, 13 July 2009 8:16:34 PM(UTC)
greenhj

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/05/2006(UTC)
Posts: 502

Thanks: 5 times
Was thanked: 14 time(s) in 12 post(s)
when/if you replace those wires, go to an electrical wholesaler such as middendorps etc and buy "silicon flex" in the appropriate size.

Its what is used for high temp resistant wiring on elements in machinery such as plastic extruders, ovens etc and has a much higher heat tolerance than normal automotive cable.

While your there, get some fibreglass sheath to slip over the cable near the heat source, and you should never have another problem.

i have 70sqmm flex wired to the starter, and the sleeving covering it, there is less than 10mm clearance to the pipes and ive never had any drama with wiring burning or showing any heat related symptoms.

11.38@117
peter_flane Offline
#5 Posted : Tuesday, 14 July 2009 6:56:00 AM(UTC)
peter_flane

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Veteran
Joined: 22/05/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,384

Great help, thank guys.

I can get some high temp wire from work, so that is what I will use.

http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2025, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.032 seconds.