Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Login


Take the time to read our Privacy Policy.

hqgts Offline
#1 Posted : Thursday, 15 July 2010 7:29:51 PM(UTC)
hqgts

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/05/2008(UTC)
Posts: 417

I usually use Mobil 1 in my quey but gee its not cheap anymore.... actually it wasnt cheap in the first place...

what does everyone use in their cars and does anyone know if there is any major benefit between using a synthetic or a quality conventional oil

Al
HK1837 Offline
#2 Posted : Thursday, 15 July 2010 8:17:34 PM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,719

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 512 time(s) in 488 post(s)
Synthetic has no base oil impurities like conventional oil made from crude, hence it is heaps better oil normally, but from what i've read good quality mineral oils are more than enough for a piston car engine. I'm pretty sure synthetic is basically made from a condensed petroleum gas like ethylene.
In any case there is no need to run Mobil 1. There are cheaper variteies around like Valvoline and Castrol. I use Castrol Edge 10W-60 in the Monaro and the Cross8, but use standard 20W-50 Valoline in teh Premier.

_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
RigPig Offline
#3 Posted : Thursday, 15 July 2010 8:59:50 PM(UTC)
RigPig

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 766
Location: in the shed

Thanks: 8 times
Was thanked: 14 time(s) in 13 post(s)
I guess youre using the Mobil-1 15W-50 for older engines and not any of the other Mobil-1's?

Mobil 1 0W-40
Mobil 1 5W-30
Mobil 1 ESP Formula 5W30
Mobil 1 5W-50
Mobil Super 2000
Mobil Super 1000

I've just been using CASTROL GTX 20W-50 for my HQ and 200,000KM later the engine still dosent smoke or use much oil between 10K services. No lifter noises at all. Thats good enough for me.

Mobil-1 is expensive because its Mobils pinup-girl oil. Its highly advertised and sponsors F1 racing teams etc. Same reason why Bridgestone Potenza tyres are expensive, it dosent realy mean they're the best thing for your car.

"I would never want to be a member of a group whose symbol was a guy nailed to two pieces of wood" (George Carlin)
hqgts Offline
#4 Posted : Friday, 16 July 2010 12:50:54 AM(UTC)
hqgts

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/05/2008(UTC)
Posts: 417

quote:
Originally posted by HK1837

In any case there is no need to run Mobil 1. There are cheaper variteies around like Valvoline and Castrol. I use Castrol Edge 10W-60 in the Monaro and the Cross8, but use standard 20W-50 Valoline in teh Premier.


Byron when you talk at about the monaro and the cross8... is the monaro a CV8 or VZ or an earlier model...

hqgts Offline
#5 Posted : Friday, 16 July 2010 12:54:43 AM(UTC)
hqgts

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 2/05/2008(UTC)
Posts: 417

quote:
Originally posted by RigPig

I've just been using CASTROL GTX 20W-50 for my HQ and 200,000KM later the engine still dosent smoke or use much oil between 10K services. No lifter noises at all. Thats good enough for me.


Ive always used the good stuff since having outlayed plenty to have the engine rebuilt.... but if it doesnt need it... i will probably take yours and Byrons advice and just go for a quality 20w-50
cloudy Offline
#6 Posted : Friday, 16 July 2010 6:52:36 AM(UTC)
cloudy

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 2,047

For a long time I have used valvoline XLD 20-50 in the VT and its seems fine on the last service I did I brought Valvoline Engine Armour 10-30 which was on special which is a synthetic blend .
Changed oil and filter and took it for a drive and noticed an imedediate difference the motor seemed a lot smoother and felt like it had more power probably due to the thinner oil, I will be buying valvoline engine armour again for sure. I will use the XLD still in the older cars.
HK1837 Offline
#7 Posted : Friday, 16 July 2010 7:08:03 AM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,719

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 512 time(s) in 488 post(s)
Al, The Monaro is a V2 CV8 (11/02 build). The Cross8 is a 5/2005 VZ.

_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
greenhj Offline
#8 Posted : Tuesday, 20 July 2010 6:39:01 AM(UTC)
greenhj

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/05/2006(UTC)
Posts: 493

Thanks: 5 times
Was thanked: 12 time(s) in 10 post(s)
for reference of those driving old flat tappet equipped engines, steer well clear of synthetic oils.

the most important thing is a high zinc content, which is hard to find since catalytic convertor days.

It poisons the catalyst, epa doesnt like it so most common oils dont have enough to keep the camshaft happy.

the zinc is important as a "sacrificial" surface for highly stressed metal on metal actions (such as lifter to lobe)

Blokes were using diesel oil for a while (detergents can upset a 400,000 mile stocker, but you wouldnt care about the cam anyway) but the epa is onto them too now with more and more passenger diesels on the market, oils designed for harleys were the go also but im not sure anymore (bikes were exempt from emissions compliance and obviously didnt run cats)

Also, backward compatible "s" ratings dont mean s*** as far as zinc content.

Im told penrite make a specific oil with high (compared to everyone else) zinc content but ive not seen it near me.

I was using shell helix 15/50 but they sneakily dropped the zinc content and relabelled it (bought up all the old stock i could find in the meantime)

Then you start getting into stuff like Brad Penn, Kendall etc which costs a pocketful (but its cheaper than replacing camshafts)

may not necessarily matter to a stock s***box, but put some valvespring in it and aggressive lobes and it certainly matters.

Roller cams are a different matter of course.


11.38@117mph

will go quicker

Edited by user Tuesday, 20 July 2010 6:43:04 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

wbute Offline
#9 Posted : Tuesday, 20 July 2010 5:13:29 PM(UTC)
wbute

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/01/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,125

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 18 time(s) in 17 post(s)
I thought a pushrod motor did not require a high tech synthetic oil? Arnt they suited to high tolerance overhead cam motors? The engine in my CRF450 Honda burns more oil if I use full synthetic and had to go back to a semi synthetic. The motor in the crf has titanium valves, a piston with about 10mm of skirt and revs to 10000rpm standard. It only has 800ml of oil in the engine as well.
I actually believe synthetics are too good for old motors and that is why they dont recommend them for use in them. I also believe that the main reason that newer cars use them is mainly to allow them to run miniscule oil capacity in the sumps for quick warm up and less perceived environmental damage due to smaller amount of oil needed per car.
I also think the amount of effort put into warming a pushrod motor up and the amount of short running has more to do with engine life than anything else, hence why taxis do huge miles without wearing out engines.

Jul71-Oct74 Offline
#10 Posted : Wednesday, 21 July 2010 5:08:31 PM(UTC)
Jul71-Oct74

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 22/01/2010(UTC)
Posts: 125

This topic has had a lot of discussion in classic car circles in the U.K as well.
The consensus view here is that there is no benefit in running a 70's pushrod motors on modern semi synthetic oils. One argument I have seen is that the old oil pumps are designed to work with thicker oils, so putting thinner modern oil in may reduce the efficiency of the pump.
I use a classic blend 20W50 in my HQ. It makes sense as this is what it was designed for.
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2024, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.165 seconds.