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Vintage Caravans Offline
#1 Posted : Sunday, 7 August 2005 2:30:48 AM(UTC)
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Hi everyone, this is my first post and looking for information on rebuilding / modifying the new motor for my EK Holden
It has been converted to red motor and I want to up the power and reliability, (as it tows quite a bit)and was thinking about the following for a motor, any advice would be appreciated:

HQ or pre pollution gear series block, with Blue 12 port head, and later model (not sure on blue or black) balanced crank.
I have been told that I can use the later crank if I have the journals machined???
Is there any special tricks with the later head to bolt on to earlier block???
What is the difference between rope and neoprene seals???
Am I heading down the wrong track completely??
Matt
P.S. no i do not want to put a V6 or V8 in the car - keeping it period style

Edited by user Sunday, 7 August 2005 3:34:11 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

1962 EK Wagon - Chev SBC & T700, 1962 EK Sedan - Chev SBC & T700,EK Ute - V6 Buick & 5 speed = LOOKING FOR A 1962 EK VAN
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#2 Posted : Sunday, 7 August 2005 4:57:21 AM(UTC)
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Hey
You are along the right track, you can give it ago yourself or you can go speak to an enginer reconditioning place and see what they tell you. You need to know really what you want before buying and getting everything done.
Are you after a torqu
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#3 Posted : Sunday, 7 August 2005 5:08:10 AM(UTC)
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All blue and black cranks are rope type seals. Just find a HQ or HJ red rope block, and the blue or black crank will bolt straight in. Use the blue/black rods as well (Starfire rods) - they have bigger bolts. The only difference between blue and black cra
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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#4 Posted : Sunday, 7 August 2005 5:28:57 AM(UTC)
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Hi Byron, I am after a WWII and manifold if you have any available. WW I am looking for is preferably original k/t/g part number for auto (23-202A&B). Please email gts186 at yahoo.com.au if you have anything available.
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#5 Posted : Sunday, 7 August 2005 7:15:08 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Guys,
4dice,
I wanted to get feedback so that when I get to the reco shop I at least know what I want and may have some of the stuff ready for them, and as far as what I want, I need the torque for towing as the vehicle will spend most of its ti
1962 EK Wagon - Chev SBC & T700, 1962 EK Sedan - Chev SBC & T700,EK Ute - V6 Buick & 5 speed = LOOKING FOR A 1962 EK VAN
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#6 Posted : Sunday, 7 August 2005 8:43:37 AM(UTC)
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Hi Matt,

I'll throw my 2.2c worth in here too...

As the guys above said, Red pre-pollution block, Blue crank/Rods, mild cam (about a 25/75 which is close to the one that the 161 LC GTR's ran), get the bottom end balanced and use good quality pistons
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#7 Posted : Sunday, 7 August 2005 4:11:42 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Dave,
I am running a std Trimatic and as you said 3:36 limited slip rear end.
I was thinking of setting the engine bay up like an X2 engine with twin Strombergs, but do you all think that the Holley would be a better bet?? Will the X2 twin manifo
1962 EK Wagon - Chev SBC & T700, 1962 EK Sedan - Chev SBC & T700,EK Ute - V6 Buick & 5 speed = LOOKING FOR A 1962 EK VAN
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#8 Posted : Sunday, 7 August 2005 8:39:50 PM(UTC)
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Red manifolds won't fit on blue heads. You can get red heads with A/C mounts off 186 HK-HG I think. Use a single system. It's not worth a trip to Newcatsle for blue crank and rods. You'll buy a whole bottom end at the wreckers for scrap value.
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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#9 Posted : Monday, 8 August 2005 8:54:15 AM(UTC)
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Hi Matt,

Have a look on Page 2 here: http://gallery.oldholden.com/Qute

I have a combined alternator/aircon mount on my 202 that I don't want/need anymore and you could have for cheap... It is in Perth (and I am in Melbourne for another couple of mon
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#10 Posted : Monday, 8 August 2005 9:56:33 AM(UTC)
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You could go for a black head (carby or injected are the same) they have much better porting than the blue and red heads and you can buy pretty cheaply the injected extractors which are factory stainless steel and work OK. Get a later starter motor the sm
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#11 Posted : Monday, 8 August 2005 7:53:25 PM(UTC)
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John

Injected and carbied heads aren't the same. The cabied heads have air pump holes in the exhaust ports, which are a bugger to plug and seal and grind off.
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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#12 Posted : Tuesday, 4 April 2006 2:20:57 PM(UTC)
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The black motor head will not fit straight onto the red motor block with out pissing fluid. There is a section missing in the face of the black head that is over 4 of the red motor steam ports. Probably to allow expansion of the ports whilst keeping the h
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#13 Posted : Wednesday, 5 April 2006 2:19:41 AM(UTC)
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Mate - dont want to tell you whats right or wrong, but blue and black heads are virtually the same. Blue extractors will fit a black head, and vice versa. I have been there and done that.

Keith

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peter_flane Offline
#14 Posted : Wednesday, 5 April 2006 6:09:47 AM(UTC)
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As far as I'm aware a black head is same as Blue, just has air pump port holes in head. In fact the head on the EH Limo 186 block is one of the black carby heads with the air pump holes blocked and the VK injection bolted on. The only mods to the 186 was
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
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#15 Posted : Monday, 10 April 2006 12:13:22 AM(UTC)
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Peter, i thought it was a 202 in the EH limo?? My bad!

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