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Any auto electricians in the house? I have a HQ 308 with electronic/breakerless ignition dizzy. Its on gas and the power for the gas system goes through a relay. The relay gets its power directly from the battery. The powered ignition signal comes from a yellow wire which initialy comes from the '+' on the coil. As this yellow wire comes through the firewall inside 'JY', it becomes two wires (Pink wire and a Yellow one) They both go to the ignition switch. Mine have melted away years ago and someone has just added new pink and yellow wires directly from the '+' coil connection. The question is . . . I have a diagramme here that says "do not cut" the pink wire, it is 1.8 +/- 05 resistance wire. Well mines been cut for years! Can someone explain these two wires for me please? Thanks for your time . . . . Wayne
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The resistance wire, pink one absorbs the current flow into the main bus bar of the wiring system. By nature of design or resistance, this wire heats up, to reduce the current flow or amps into the wiring loom. I believe only hj and hq had this set up, co
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Actually the electronic ignition does not use the pink wire as it requires the full 12 volts. The resistance wire cut the power down to about 9 volts, so provided the new pink wire comes all the way through you don't have a problem.
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Wayne,
Both these guys are correct. Here's another angle, though...
The Coil in your ignition system of course takes 12v and converts to a much higher voltage which your Points in distributor distribute to each of your spark plugs at the correct ti
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wow, theres something i didnt know..... and thats the standard way they all work with points dizzys?the volts dropping to the coil?
BLWNHJ |
BLWNHJ |
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In simple terms if you use points don't touch the existing wiring. If you go electronic, you need 12V and a ballast resistor.
John
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i understood what he was saying, i didnt really need it in simple terms i was just wondering if it was always like that as ive never heard it before.
BLWNHJ |
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Blwnhj - I can't answer that... as far as I know, all holden red engines used this method. Fairly sure the mid 80's Suzuki Sierra's had something similar, using an actual resistor instead of a resisting wire, so maybe it's fairly widespread.
I guess
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I don't think you need a resistor at all with electronic. As I understand it, although the electronic will run with the lower voltage it is not all that good for it and stresses the electronics.
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BLWNHQ...sorry mate..no offense intended or directed at you. I was just cutting the words down for MonMan.
Cheers John
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Ok, what happens is that when you crank your motor and a couple of hundrer amps flow, you get a voltage drop at your battery teminals (9-10volts terminal) but ofcourse you want the best spark to fire your motor, so the old points/coil are a 9volt setup. S
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TRUBLUHQ- no worries man. not offended, just thought you may be one of these prople that are so arrogant that you think everyone is dummer than you. sorry, i was wrong.
BLWNHJ |
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Thanks everyone, nothing to worry about seeing I have a 12v electronic dizzy. Thanks again . . . Wayne
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The great joy with a points system over an electronic is that they are much simpler to check, and once running don't tend to fail for no apparent reason. If they do fail, it is a physical failure that can be traced, seen and (usually) fixed on the spot. |
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It was by accident I read this.
I knew most of it but didnt relise the bit about electionic not requiring the resistior for running.
ITs very handy as im putting a 350chev into my hq and it has electronic egnition so Ill sort it for 12 volts all the tim |
If its not broke it will be soon |
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