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horse power increase ....per each change?
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quote:
Originally posted by jim
ANOTHER KILLER THREAD BY YOU GUYS...P.S.BYRONS SANDMAN THREAD
IS STILL THE KING AND SAFE...LOL
Jim in Adelaide...Hindsight is bad vision!
thats why this is the best forum on the net, simple, good members that can offer help, knowledge, humour and at times heaps of patience when im around!! great guys in here. "Reputations are made and broken as soon as you enter or leave my shed.." Edited by user Tuesday, 20 April 2010 6:38:34 AM(UTC)
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fanbelts? = 15 hp loss? beef up the output of the alt to compensate for the thermos? = all achievable.?
Jim in Adelaide...Hindsight is bad vision! |
Jim in Adelaide.. |
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How often do thermo fans switch on whilst actually driving? If you turn your headlights on they will cause the engine rpm to drop cause of the extra demand but you never notice it at night because you cant go without them. The standard fan will rob power all the time because it never turns off. I suppose are we talking real world hp gains or just over the quarter mile?
What is the advantage of using diesel oil over petrol oil? I havnt heard that before?
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Another 5 or 10 pounds air pressure in the tyres will make your car roll and even steer a lot easier and they will last a bit longer also. But you wont find this written in the tyre manufacturers recommendations.....Jack
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I know i am a little late but i was wondering what the best method of putting cold air induction onto a red 308 (as it seems like it may be worthwhile)?
Is there an aftermarket bit that can be bought (or does this need to be customised)?
Also where will it pull the air from (i assume it either needs to come from in front of the radiator or through the bonnet)?
Mark
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A GTS/4 is a monaro - so nuuur |
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Mark
There are a few ways. You could modify the standard air cleaner and put a big hose off it somewhere in front of the radiator. You might have to use 2 x snouts on the aircleaner and 2 x smaller hoses. You can also suck air from the plenum in front of the windscreen by boring holes in the firewall through to the plenum. An A9X bonnet scoop will work too but look stupid. Or try copying a VK HDT with its over the radiator setup. You could also get rid of the stuck air cleaner, and put an LPG hat on it off an old Impco setup. Move the battery to the drivers side and use a VN-VS airbox mounted where the battery was, then get some tubing (rubber, steel, stainless etc) to connect the two. You can bore a big hole down through the inner guard through the base of the aircleaner box and block of the original inlet, using some plumbing pipe (100mm) to get cold air from behind the front bar.
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Tailsharft balance,wheel alinement,lose a bit of weight like that left hand mirror haha.Seriously tho some drag would be eliminated by fiting more aero dynamic ones.However aero dynamics is a bit off the subject of horsepower increase, you would not notice it on the dyno. What about water injection i read somewhere the old spitfire airplanes had a water button ,press it and wham instant acceleration more than 5 second burst and boom blows the motor .Did any drag cars run the same setup in the old days?Maybe someone could confirm.--keeo
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cold air induction, i sorted that by cutting the bonnet lol.
but, if you want to keep it under the bonnet, id use the factory element housing, fit two snorkels and duct hose under the radiator support to a round-to-square adapter (a plumbing dude would know its name, to convert rectangle pops to round downpipes)
Im not sure there is enough room between the radiator and the bonnet to fit a tray type deal like the crummydores (happy to be proven wrong), ive always considered dropping the radiator an inch, notching the top of the radiator support and fitting a similar thing.
Ive also seen holes drilled in the radiator support between the radiator "sides" and the support bracing (where it attaches to the rail) youd fit a 2" hole on either side no problem.
Whatever you connect, make sure your air cleaner isnt undersized, and the CSA of your cold air feed is at least that of the throttle plates, maybe more to account for bends etc.
11.38@117mph
will go quicker
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water injection is only of use if you are ignition advance limited. On a healthy, well tuned engine its of dubious value, water doesnt burn too well (hence slowing combustion down) and there is only a certain amount of air and liquid that will work in a heads port flow. Replacing something that burns with something that doesnt, might be good for economy, but a sock in the carby will do the same job. On the right setup, especially blown/turbo stuff water injection can be of benefit because most of these setups ARE advance limited due to pretty high combustion pressures and induction air temps (mainly on non intercooled stuff) but its not something im in a rush to fit to 90% of stuff i play with 11.38@117mph will go quicker Edited by user Friday, 23 April 2010 5:38:15 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by Keeo
lose a bit of weight like that left hand mirror haha.
you make a good point (in a roundabout way) how many people drive around with there boots full of crap? my cars are always full of rubbish and other stuff, the boot is nearly always full of tools, spare tyre, jack, and other crap i couldnt be bothered taking out all up id say i carry atleast 100kg stuff around i dont need to! (and im about 20kgs heavier than the average person) surely removing all this stuff would make a differance
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What about fuel?fresh, high octane stuff may give more HP.One more idea is to check if youre gettin full throtle cause linkages wear and cables can strech.keeo
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Keeo.good info on the acceloraters ,dont know how many ive found that dont go full for some reason or another, i also like double pumpers (linkage secondarys)...its on ,its off ,no f@#king around.Which also leads into advance curves and jet sizes etc,would be some extra horsepower there i reckon.
Jim in Adelaide...Hindsight is bad vision! |
Jim in Adelaide.. |
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horse power increase ....per each change?
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