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I was just reading your story & appreciate all the work you & your dad did to the old girl,being a panelbeater & know its like 2 steps back one step forward for a while,You had some pretty big rust holes .
Good Job
Rusty B
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thanks rusty i love it when people realise how much work had to go in to her.
Football, Meat pies, Kangaroos and Holden cars
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You and your dad have done a great job on the J excellent work with the rust repairs, did you oxy weld those in? Rick Edited by user Sunday, 9 April 2006 9:21:06 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Rick, yeah we welded with the oxy.
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I Mainly use MIG welder ,Less heat ,Less distortion . But hey , Oxy welding is old school & i remember 20 years ago when I was a apprentice there were guys who oxy d everthing no distortion ,metal finish ,no bog ,maybe a tiny bit of lead. .
Its all good . I like Bronz Oxy Welding with flux ,that flows good .
When I Mig welded up the Ute i tacked it up fully each Weld ,cooling each tack as i went .This minimises distortion .
Were you able to metal finish any of your Rust Repairs or did you get some heat Distortion ? & needed some filler
Rusty B
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we had a little bit of of distortion, but we smoothed it over with filler, i reckon it came up pretty good.
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Bit of an up date... progress on the motor still isnt under way because the trans **** its self a few weeks back.
After paying 800 to have the trans rebuild with a shift kit i was happy with how it was going, then today one day after i got it back i suspect ive wrecked a servo, so its going back in monday to see what the dramas are, i think i might get it toughened up a bit this time.
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10000 fists,
ok, so lowering on a budget.
cut 1&1/2 full coils off your STD front 6 cyl springs. Cost $1.
Get some LX (or simular) rear standard springs, maybe $30.
chuck em in the rear.
this will take it down to coke can standing up height.
BEWARE:! STand by with spare trimatic transmission pans on hand just in case!
as for the motor, dont go above stage 3 mods across the board, otherwise, you mitaswell chuck an 8 in.
STG 3 (mild /warm) or whatever, you can use standard holden engine internals, i.e valve springs, rods, slugs. You should be able to do this for not alot of money.
If you do go with a blue 202, the standard V-Jet is Ok, although they dont have a great rep, and many people rip em off and put 350 Holleys.
Spend $30 on the Rochester / varijet carby book, - very good investment, and play with the metering rods for more HP..
the V- Jet flow 270 cfm, thats enough for a mild 202.
if you do put a Holley 350, buy a $15 - $20. redline carby adaptor, and it will go onto STD blue inlet manifold.
Use 65 power valve and 59 Jets with 3.36 diff + 2" single straight thru system.
Good power / torque / economy.
Then play with power valve external clearance (nut)(start @ 0.15 gap and play +/- with to suit cam powerband. (bigger cam = bigger clearance)
If you do go with a Blue 202, dont forget to upgrade power source of electronic ignition from 9V to 12V (relay)
if you get bigger 17inch wheels, change diff centre to 3.55, especially in city. ($50)
Ok, ok, ok, so its a bit rough and cheap, but it sounds like the boys are on a budget.
adam
Being a Bogan is finally paying dividends. |
Old holdens brought on the spot, quick decision, cash paid. |
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10000 fists.
i forgot to mention something REALLY important
Putting a red head on a blue block and vice versa, blue head on red block doesnt work without modification.
the motor will run for 5 minutes before blowing a head gasket.
the water jackets dont line up (compare red 6 head gasket to blue 6 head gasket).
None of the factory holden red inlet / exhaust manifolds will fit on blue and vice versa either!
Piss the red motor / associated RED items off altogether to pay for other items, and just go all blue motor, top and bottom.
The blue has starfire rods standard, and a 12 port head, 2 barrel inlet.
Maybe look at HQ racer cam?, the XU-1 cam is too big for auto 6 in Kingswood with 270 cfm carby.
If you cant afford extractors, dont panic its not as critical with the blue motor, as the manifold is simular to HR - X2 and GTR torana factory headers in design. The red motors suffocated on STD exhaust manifolds.
But when you do buy extractors eventually, specify, "to Blue 202 motor in WB." - so your exhaust will be the right shape to lower the HJ as low as possible.
If you have any money left over (probably spent $1500 by now on 202 blue), regraph DIstributor to suit cam specs / diff ratio,
and if your really keen, matchport heads,
Do your apprentiship on the 6 first, when u blow it up, it will be time....
goodluck!
adam
Being a Bogan is finally paying dividends. |
Old holdens brought on the spot, quick decision, cash paid. |
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