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joelm Offline
#1 Posted : Thursday, 23 June 2011 7:14:31 AM(UTC)
joelm

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hi guys,

I'm doing planning work on a bare metal respray on my EJ wagon (except roof) and need some advice.

im after a general ballpark of what to expect to get an EJ Wagon (or similar size) sandblasted in & out- except roof.

This is for quote with panels left on car, all glass removed.

Ive got a quote for approx $600 for the sandblast and another $200 to prime it.

Is this realistic? Is it high or low?

Thanks
Joel.
peter_flane Offline
#2 Posted : Thursday, 23 June 2011 10:05:56 AM(UTC)
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We pay $2000 to get a professional to do whole cars inside and out, and NOT STUFF ANY PANELS. This is what we get done monthly on $100K resto's, so we get it done right.

I am not questioning the cost, I would worry about the quality at that price.

What primer is it? We charge $1500 for a proper etch and epoxy prime. $200 sounds like some cheap stuff.
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
275monaro Offline
#3 Posted : Friday, 24 June 2011 5:31:54 AM(UTC)
275monaro

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personally i would not sandblast the car as this can warp / damage panels i would bead blast the car as this doesnt damage the panels and as peter suggests with the cost and primer whats the workmanship like
peter_flane Offline
#4 Posted : Friday, 24 June 2011 5:45:40 AM(UTC)
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The guy we get to blast cars uses soda to blast the flat panels, and can even do aluminium. Soda does not remove rust, so garnet is used on all structural, chassis, floors, and inner edges and frames etc. The flat panels must be done with beads or soda. We only get cars like E-Type Jaguar, Aston Martin, Austin Healey done, so it is about $2000 to get it done right
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
joelm Offline
#5 Posted : Friday, 24 June 2011 5:52:52 AM(UTC)
joelm

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thanks guys. i'm eons away from an $100K resto.

i've had good reports from a guy who got his monaro done without any panel warp.

Thanks for heads up on what type of primer is used. I'll have to check that.

I'm on the expectation that the panel shop will have to re-prime some of it anyway before they topcoat.

Joel.
paech Offline
#6 Posted : Friday, 24 June 2011 6:09:46 AM(UTC)
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I have just completed an HK ute I would recommend dipping the bonnet doors and tailgates. sandblast the shell and y-frames, paint strip the roof ,rear quarters and and guards to save money and damage, be prepared to spend some time cleaning out the sand and make sure you block off any holes that would allow sand into closed body sections. Do not allow the sandblaster to apply primer, you can do a much better job yourself. This method means you only have prep and prime smaller segments of the car at a time when you are ready. The last thing you need is a completely disassembled car that requires total priming before surface rust appears. If you have good panels look after them . Good luck with the project.
joelm Offline
#7 Posted : Friday, 24 June 2011 6:18:07 AM(UTC)
joelm

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Thanks paech, i'd love to prime it myself, problem being the sand blaster is in Wangaratta an im in Yarrawonga (30mins drive away) and its pretty moist up this way.

I reckon i'll get it primed definitely and then the panel shop can reprime as needed.
RigPig Offline
#8 Posted : Saturday, 25 June 2011 10:08:02 AM(UTC)
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I paid $1000 for a 1959 cadillac body, without doors or boot or bonnet or guards, and I etch primed it myself. He didnt do the roof either, but the main thing is he didnt stuff it up.

$600 is very cheap, is he doing the underside for that price?
"I would never want to be a member of a group whose symbol was a guy nailed to two pieces of wood" (George Carlin)
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