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hi could someone with a vr or vs have a look at the connection to the horn under the right front bumper there is a green wire to one contact and a black wire to the other.
I need to know if the green wire is live either with or without the ignition or accessories on.
i am trying to sort out why the horn on my car suddenly stopped working, there is no power to the horn and when i run a live lead to the second terminal the horn works, which indicates a short in the black wire to me, but when i connect a wire straight from battery * to the horn and run a wire from battery - to the horn pad and then to the horn, and press the horn pad, no hoot.
a test of the pad with a multimeter shows ther eis contiuity when the pad is pressed.
but there is no power to the green wire, so i don't know where the power to the horn comes from or if the green wire is broken somewhere.
tried to get the steering wheel off today but couldn't will have to make a puller for it.
thanks.
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Before you start pulling the wheel off, check the horn itself first - and then the relay.
At the horn, the green wire is a switched + (from the relay) and the black wire is a constant earth.
Try wiring the horn directly to the battery. I've had a few of them now that have developed an internal short within the horn itself, and this will drive you crazy unless you check for it first.
If the horn checks out OK, then move onto the horn relay in the engine bay fuse box.
It has 4 terminals - 2 are fed 12V+ power from the horn fuse (take the horn fuse out & use the multimeter on continuity mode to find those 2, or simply use a test light - with the fuse still in).
Another terminal is the relay-switched output to the horns - a green wire.
And the last terminal is from the steering column horn contact.
The steering wheel contact is a switched earth, down to that relay.
Put a test light on that pin at the relay base, and also on battery + and have someone press the horn. If it works, then you don't have to remove the wheel.
Next test is to make a small jumper wire that you can use to go from the 12V+ feed in the horn relay base (with the relay removed) across to the green wire in the relay base. If that makes the horn work, then you know the horn wiring from the relay base is OK.
Hopefully somewhere along that process you'll find the problem. |
Cheers,
Mick
_______________________________________________________________
Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
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Rank: Veteran
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thanks Mick will write this out the thing is driving me spare. just took about 5 attempts to put a new suicide gear in the speedo, it just would not work, i think it depends what position you reassemble it.
the horn does work, i hot wired it. there is no current to the green wire at the horn end. i did swap the relay with another working one (fuel pump) so i know the relay is ok.
how does the horn pad make contact there does not appear to be any contact point in there.
the black wire constant earth is supposed to earth when the horn pad is pressed, that is pretty standard for horns. there is continuity with earth even if the horn pad is not pushed.
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Rank: Veteran
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well got it fixed but it took about 3 days to sort it out, and it was so simple.
drove me crazy.
turns out there is a brass ring on the back of the steering wheel that contacts a springloaded plug coming in from the back.
i thought maybe the contact was dirty so put a small flat file in to clean it, horn went. took file out, horn stopped, scraped a bit more, no improvement, levered ring forward a bit and it worked.
had some old lino on my work bench so cut a ring about 3'' diameter, and 3/8" wide, cut it so it could fit behind, and slipped it behind the brass ring.
horn works perfectly.
obviously the plug contact is a wearing part and had worn just a bit too far. don't know if new ones can be bought but not sure how to fit one anyway and the current patch up will do me for a while.
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