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202tonner Offline
#1 Posted : Monday, 14 October 2019 1:28:55 PM(UTC)
202tonner

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Looking for info on wiring/electrics. For a HJ tonner.

HEATER
What current does the heater fan draw?
I'm not sure what size wire to use without knowing how much power is required.
Yes, one of these days I'll get a current draw measuring ammeter gauge thingy, but until then...

WIPERS
And what do the wipers draw? Again for wire sizing.
Also is it worthwhile running power through a relay to the wipers to power them. Mine are a bit sluggish but it could also be that I've got the wiring wrong. From a quick look it seems that the wipers are powered by earthing the relevant terminal through the switch? Is this right? None of the switch terminals seem to have any connectivity.
The inbuilt washer pump has long perished so an accesory pump is used to pump the water instead.

LIGHTING SWITCH
Secondly can anyone explain the lighting switch?
There are 6 slots being used on mine.
Red from the fuse panel. I assume this always provides power so the relevant lights can be turned on without the ignition being on.
A doubled up terminal with a Purple and Dark Brown wire both in the same slot. These run the park/tail lights when the switch is pulled out for one click.
A Dark Green wire running to the dash illumination lights. This is a variable feed which allows the dash lights to be dimmed as the knob is rotated.
A Dark Blue wire, changed because I didn't have any Light Blue as would originally be in there. This runs to the dip switch to power the headlights when the switch is pulled out fully.
All good so far, I hope.

But the Orange and White wires confuse me. They are both connected to the interior light but I can't work out what it is happening. There aren't any door switches or footwell lights.
The Orange is a doubled up terminal with two Orange wires. One runs to the fuse panel, the other to the interior light. And the White wire runs to the interior light as well. This seems a bit complex so I think I'm missing something here. Somehow related to turning the interior light on by fully rotating the knob and/or using a door switch? Any clues?

There is also another unused terminal on the switch. It is the upper left one as you look at the mounted switch which AFAIK has never been used. Any idea what that does?

Thanks.
Dr Terry Offline
#2 Posted : Monday, 14 October 2019 3:00:21 PM(UTC)
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You've got most of this pretty well sorted.

Take a leaf out of GM-H's book & make your wiring similar to theirs, maybe go up 1 size of wire gauge. I can't help with precise current draw figures, but I would guess they would both be around 10A-15A max at full speed.

The wiring to the headlight switch is relatively straight forward.

Red is direct from the battery, usually from the starter terminal.

Purple & brown supplies parkers & tail-lights.

Dark green supplies the instrument illumination (via a separate small fuse in the fusebox)

Blue is headlight supply to the hi/low dipper switch.

Orange. 1 is 12v supply from the fusebox (this is for parkers/tails/instruments) & the 2nd is 12V supply to the dome light.

The white wire is the earth return from the dome light. The switch earths the dome light to switch it on. If you want to add door courtesy switches, connect them to this white wire.

AFAIK the unused terminal is for the older style parking lights where they are ON in the first position but they go OFF when the headlights are switched ON. This was only used for HK & earlier cars.
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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202tonner on 19/10/2019(UTC)
gm5735 Offline
#3 Posted : Wednesday, 16 October 2019 12:42:59 PM(UTC)
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I've rebuilt quite a few of the wiper motors, and measure the current on all of them as part of testing.
They draw anywhere between 2 and 4 amps on high speed at 13.5V.
The standard wire size, connectors and switch should easily handle that current.
The heater fan motors draw a little more, but not much.
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202tonner on 19/10/2019(UTC)
202tonner Offline
#4 Posted : Saturday, 19 October 2019 7:37:33 PM(UTC)
202tonner

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Great info. Thank you both.

I have tried to keep the wiring is as close to the original layout as possible but have added a heap of stuff as well. I use a minimum wire size of 3mm and larger wire is used if that won't handle the current (but I do round up excessively on wire sizes). Unfortunately I haven't been able to find some types of replacement terminal so a lot of substitution has occurred.

The lighting switch is much simpler than I thought. I wasn't looking for the White wire to be an earth! Since pretty well nothing else uses one I never even thought of that.d'oh!

And thanks for the power usage figures. I would have thought the wipers and heater use more. Glad to be "disappointed"!

One more question. The Gregory's wiring diagram mentions a fusible link near the starter motor. I think it is meant to be on the wire from the starter motor to the lighting switch. I have always assumed that this is the little rubber block which is a couple of inches from the starter motor terminal on that wire. Is that the case? Very handy if so to prevent accidental "welding" under the dash!
Dr Terry Offline
#5 Posted : Sunday, 20 October 2019 8:42:40 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: 202tonner Go to Quoted Post
One more question. The Gregory's wiring diagram mentions a fusible link near the starter motor. I think it is meant to be on the wire from the starter motor to the lighting switch. I have always assumed that this is the little rubber block which is a couple of inches from the starter motor terminal on that wire. Is that the case? Very handy if so to prevent accidental "welding" under the dash!


The "little rubber block" is the junction between the short piece of 'fusible' wire & the copper main 12V feed.

Originally Posted by: 202tonner Go to Quoted Post
And thanks for the power usage figures. I would have thought the wipers and heater use more. Glad to be "disappointed"!


Remember that the alternator on these old girls is only 35-40A output (55A with a/cond) so if you had too many appliances switched ON, the battery would go flat pretty quick. As a matter of fact if you headlights on hi-beam, wipers on fast speed, heater on fast fan, by the time you add in the current draw of the ignition system, things are a bit marginal even then.

Dr Terry
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
202tonner Offline
#6 Posted : Sunday, 20 October 2019 9:39:56 AM(UTC)
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Aah. So the fusible link is the bit of wire from the terminal to the rubber block. That's important info. I'm glad I never updated it! Thanks.

And she has a 70A alternator these days. No air-con but does have spotlights and a second battery.
The only trouble I've ever had was because I didn't realise that the dash alternator light is needed to energise the alternator so it can charge.
Explanation: when you turn the ignition on and the dash alternator light comes on this provides a small amount of power to the alternator. Through electro-magickery this allows the alternator to provide current to the battery to charge it. If the light doesn't come on (blown bulb or dodgy wiring) then the alternator can't provide this current. It may work for a while but eventually it will lose the ability to charge and the battery will go flat.
The good news is the vehicle will run for quite a while as the battery discharges but you won't have enough power to start it again if you turn it off. Also the headlights will get dimmer and dimmer (damhik).
A quick fix (because replacing the bulb requires a lot of dash dismantling or really thin quadruple-jointed arms) is to touch a test light from the positive battery terminal to the terminal on the back of the alternator where the thin brown wire attaches. I did this while the engine was running but I suspect it will work with only the ignition turned on (anyone know?). As the light glows you should hear a change in the engine note (slight drop in revs and sounding a bit more under load) as the alternator energises and starts charging. Once the alternator kicks in the test light isn't needed anymore. This is the same thing as having the dash light come on.
Many thanks to the auto-sparky who explained that to me.
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