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#1 Posted : Thursday, 16 February 2006 1:43:01 AM(UTC)
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Gday Guys,
Currently I am restoring my HX LE which is including a large HP/torque upgrade,my question is do i stick with the salisbury or go 9inch and why?
Who is the best diff man in perth or farm the job to some one over east?
Alloy drop tank, has somebody had one made in perth that they recomend.
Kind regards
Thomo
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#2 Posted : Thursday, 16 February 2006 2:16:21 AM(UTC)
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9 inch 4 strength 1o bolt for originality
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#3 Posted : Thursday, 16 February 2006 2:33:48 AM(UTC)
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original is where the money is !

no shame in Growing old disgracefully!
"Experience is a hard teacher because she gives the test first, and the lesson afterwards"
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#4 Posted : Thursday, 16 February 2006 3:59:36 AM(UTC)
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Why not go 'semi-original' eg a Chev 12-bolt or VN Borg Warner? As long as it can re returned to original easily it shouldn't affect it's value.
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#5 Posted : Thursday, 16 February 2006 4:49:02 AM(UTC)
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i would probly go with the 9 inch!
zac

Nothing beats cubic inches !!!
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#6 Posted : Thursday, 16 February 2006 8:40:51 AM(UTC)
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Can the salisbury be made as tough as the 9inch?
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#7 Posted : Thursday, 16 February 2006 8:53:30 AM(UTC)
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A 9" will soak up a bit more horsepower than the Salisbury.

Old Holdens never die, they just go faster.
Cheers,
Pete.
Old Holdens never die, they just go faster.
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#8 Posted : Thursday, 16 February 2006 5:49:36 PM(UTC)
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Unfortunately the only way a Salisbury will ever be as tough as a 9" is if it goes into a BOS (Steelmaking vessel) and gets turned into liquid steel, gets re-cast and remade into a 9". A 12-bolt Chevy diff is quite strong though. You find them in 1960's a
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#9 Posted : Saturday, 18 February 2006 3:22:03 AM(UTC)
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a good 12 bolt is getting hard to find so i have been told!
zac

Nothing beats cubic inches !!!
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#10 Posted : Saturday, 18 February 2006 3:37:44 AM(UTC)
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a DANA 60 is stronger than a 9", and i dont think it is any heavier
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#11 Posted : Saturday, 18 February 2006 11:25:25 PM(UTC)
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I don't know about that. My Overlander has one in the rear and it is massive, plus the entire centre is heavy cast iron, as opposed to the 9" which has a thin mild steel housing with the cast banjo drop in centre.
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#12 Posted : Sunday, 19 February 2006 1:24:34 AM(UTC)
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You are in Perth have a look at my VS V8 back axle which is near enough to a bees whisker the same width and only needs a modification to the handbrake and the spring mounts altered. Gives you a disk rear. You can always unbolt a back axle, to keep it ori
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#13 Posted : Sunday, 19 February 2006 10:20:51 AM(UTC)
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If your building a serious HP motor then go the 9 inch, but keep the original diff for future use. Does not matter if you put in a 12 bolt or whatever, it will never be original, so you may as well get a 9inch which you can buy for those cars anywhere.
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#14 Posted : Saturday, 25 February 2006 2:33:21 AM(UTC)
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Interesting question, Just how much power and what type of driving? I still own the first car I bought in 1987, a 1980 WB Kingswood 253, M20, G4V Salisbury 3:36. I upgraded the 253 to a fuel injected 5L, T5 trany and tried just about every combination 2:6
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#15 Posted : Tuesday, 28 February 2006 2:27:11 AM(UTC)
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My money would be on a 12 Bolt Chev diff, they are just as strong as a 9".
The latest C6 Corvette use them, and they are pumping out 340kws, Why put a Ford product in a G.M if the G.M product is just as good.
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#16 Posted : Tuesday, 28 February 2006 7:15:13 AM(UTC)
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Go for it on the LE (with EFI 5L) I say. As long as you don't modify the car, then it can easily be changed back. I'm going to fit a 427, Muncie and 12-bolt into one of my HK GTS 327's, but it will be easily swapped back and no body mods whatsoever.
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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