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ozchevy Offline
#21 Posted : Tuesday, 14 November 2006 9:11:12 AM(UTC)
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Interesting Byron,
I've not seen these heads in the flesh, but the info I found on them was some what short in detail, however the valve sizes were indeed a surprise to me - as I thought these heads were definately fitted to 283 cu" blocks, as in Impalas
HK1837 Offline
#22 Posted : Tuesday, 14 November 2006 5:38:59 PM(UTC)
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Those are not powerpacks, they are off a 1976 vehicle of some description. Powerpacks started as casting number 3734029 in 1956 and progressed through as various casting numbers until the end of 283 production in 1967. The biggest valves fitted to 283's w
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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#23 Posted : Wednesday, 15 November 2006 4:22:12 AM(UTC)
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Well I've been ripped off!!! Thanks to you guys, it was brought to my attention now and not when its too late.
NOW I HAVE A CLEAN SLATE TO WITH FROM, DO YOU AGREE A GOOD SET OF 333882's WOULD DO THE TRICK?? OR SOMETHING DIFFERENT. WITH A 3.75 cRANK 5.7"R
HK1837 Offline
#24 Posted : Wednesday, 15 November 2006 5:21:10 AM(UTC)
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B4 you go buying and doing up secondhand heads see what a pair of new cast iron Darts will cost you. Talk to the supplier or a good engine shop (like Moe Engines in Melbourne) about what pistons to buy once you have the heads. Most 4' bore, 3.75" stroke p
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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#25 Posted : Wednesday, 15 November 2006 5:58:24 AM(UTC)
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Theres a pair of darts going for around $1000 ?? I don't know what the normal price is, but they're new, no valves etc. A Bit more than i planned to spend but hey, do it once , do it well !!!
HK1837 Offline
#26 Posted : Wednesday, 15 November 2006 6:16:15 AM(UTC)
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That's not a bad deal. A set of secondhand heads will cost you around $400, plus a service (say $250) plus maybe hardened seats etc. The Darts should be ready for ULP. A set of LT1 valve springs, retainers and collets should set you back under $200. New v
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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#27 Posted : Thursday, 16 November 2006 4:23:38 AM(UTC)
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A NEW ONE FOR YA !!!
THE BLOCK I HAVE IS : 10243880...350...95-00...2 or 4...Vortec truck, Gen.I crate motors and "ZZ4", roller cam, one piece rear seal

Is this still suitable for what i am trying to achieve ????????????????
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#28 Posted : Thursday, 16 November 2006 4:49:27 AM(UTC)
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Dart heads very nice !!!, but , what about brand new set of EQ TORKER cylinder heads $1200a set with valves , springs, but no rockers. At the end of the day price is between these is Irrelevant
BUT MY INITIAL BUDGET TO BUILD THIS WORK OF ART WAS UNDER 4
HK1837 Offline
#29 Posted : Thursday, 16 November 2006 5:56:20 AM(UTC)
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You can buy a brand new 285hp crate 350 for about $2750. These are roller cammed normally. Add on about $1000 for accessories. I think he 325hp version is about $400 dearer. Look at www.eagle.com.au, or Suburban imports or others like them in Parts Peddle
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#30 Posted : Friday, 17 November 2006 2:46:12 AM(UTC)
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WELL I BIT THE BULLET AND BOUGHT A NEW PAIR OF BARE DARTS, GOT A SCAT 3.75 CRANK AND A SET OF Hypereutectic Coated pistons 30 THOU.
WILL KEEP YOU UP TO DATE WITH THE BUILD
HK1837 Offline
#31 Posted : Friday, 17 November 2006 7:18:03 AM(UTC)
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Will be an easy build. Just make sure the engine shop checks the bearing jornals on the crank for size (doesn't hurt to be careful). And they'll have to clearance the bottom of the bores to clear 5.7" rod bolts. If you are using 2nd hand rods, spend about
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#32 Posted : Saturday, 18 November 2006 4:19:08 AM(UTC)
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WITH THE CLEARANCE REQUIRED AT THE BOTTOM OF THE BORE, I ASSUME THE MACHINE SHOP WILL KNOW HOW MUCH EXTRA TO BORE, I WILL GIVE THEM THE PISTONS AND I'LL ATTACH A ROD TO ONE OF THEM. WHATS THE USUAL EXTRA BORE REQUIRED,? IF THERE IS ONE.
HK1837 Offline
#33 Posted : Monday, 20 November 2006 6:51:21 PM(UTC)
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If they don't, find a machine shop that does. They'll dummy assemble the bottom end and clearance to suit.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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#34 Posted : Friday, 1 December 2006 1:19:19 AM(UTC)
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How tight should the fit between the Gudgeon pin and the rod be ?
i have pressed the pin into the rod , but gee shes tight.
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#35 Posted : Friday, 1 December 2006 5:04:23 AM(UTC)
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Interference fit. From what I understand, machine shops either cool the gudgeon pin or warm up the little end then press them in.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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#36 Posted : Friday, 1 December 2006 5:36:06 AM(UTC)
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YEP DID ALL THAT, BUT STILL A VERY TGHT FIT, I DONT EVER REMEMBER THEM BEING THAT HARD TO GET ON .
WILL SEE HOW THEY GO .
Sandman Offline
#37 Posted : Saturday, 2 December 2006 8:35:02 PM(UTC)
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Matt
What CCs are the dart heads u bought? 64 or 72? Buying the darts was a good move as they like to breathe well.
I've had 383s for about 20 yrs in different cars and configurations.
the one I'm using now is 11.2 -1 CR and runs fine on 98 octane prem
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#38 Posted : Monday, 11 December 2006 2:13:52 AM(UTC)
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Het Sandman,

The darts are 165CC IN 72 OUT, 1.94/1.50"

They are still waiting to be assembled, but looking forward to trying these babies.

I got the machine shop who is reboring the block to fit the pins / rods, once they were heated correctly,
Sandman Offline
#39 Posted : Thursday, 14 December 2006 2:04:34 PM(UTC)
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The pistons are all balanced to the same weight, and so are the rods. Also on the rods, there is a pad on the top and bottom of the rod that material can be ground off to balance them.
Without knowing your deck height, valve releif CCs etc, I'd guess you
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#40 Posted : Friday, 5 January 2007 2:32:23 AM(UTC)
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Can i used a 2 piece rear main seal on a single rear main seal block and crank ?????? If not, who knows where i can get a single RMS
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