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Was doing some work on a 253 Torana today, fixing wiring that some genius had put together. Along the way found the resistor wire from the ignition switch to the coil fried.
As the car will probably be getting a HEI at a later date, it wasn't much of a problem, just replaced the wire with normal 15amp wire(non resistor), I checked the coil to make sure that it was a resistor type coil, which it was. I fitted it up with a ceramic ballast resistor off an Accel coil.
When I went to start it, no fire! Checked voltages had 12.5 at in terminal on resistor and 10.5 out.
The only way I could get a spark was putting 12V to the coil+ and bypassing the ballast resistor. Runs fine????
I have seen resistor coils used with 12V by accident before and they get really hot, really quickly and only live a short life. This one doesn't get hot???
I even pulled the coil off and rechecked the writing on the bottom to make sure I hadn't read it wrong.
Any ideas?
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Hi Sandman,
I have a HQ with Bosch GT40 coil which was standard replacement at some time - I assume it should originally be resistor type and used to have with points. I have it running with full 12V and Pertronix Ignitor points replacement unit. Has
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Hi Guys.
If you run a ballast resistor, the circuit should include a method of by-passing it when cranking, this is how the factory does it. At the moment, the coil gets 9 to 10 volts when running, this will drop to 7 or 8 (or less) volts when cranking |
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You have a resistance coil and a wire, and a resistor as well. I am no electrical whiz but I think you have built so much resistance into the circuit that not enough current is getting though for it to start. try disconnecting one of the resistance circu
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Guys,
Does the coil wire (yellow) have a physical resistor in the circuit, or is it purely a high resistance wire?
How can you test the current - is it as simple as using a multi meter and turning on the ignition with a good earth? Or is there a tri
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Yellow wire is 12V cranking only. The pink wire is the resistor wire.Dr Terry is this correct. If you have later starter or replacement starter, it should have a extra terminal on the top of the solenoid cap if you run a wire from that to the coil it will
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Hi Guys.
hq_ss, that's not quite what I meant. The pink wire is not the resistor wire, the pink is connected to the resistor wire (at the witch connector block) & goes to the fuse box etc to run other things in the car that require 12 volt ignition sup |
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You sure about that Terry ? I was under the impression the pink wire is the resistor wire, can test this with a multimeter, i don't have a wire to hand. but the pink wire does get warm when running. I also found the pink wire very hard to solder .
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Sorry Guys its getting confusing now.From the wires I am looking at HQ on ran a pink resistor wire  which shares the same terminal as the larger pink wire that goe Edited by user Wednesday, 9 May 2007 7:51:26 AM(UTC)
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Yeh HQss, you're right.The wire I cut out was a pink wire with"resistor wire do not cut".The is a yellow wire that comes from the starter, that supplies 12V while cranking. Then when the key is back at on/run position, power comes from the pink resistor w
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The other pink is the pink Dr Terry was talking about it goes to the fuse box.It sounds like the ballast resistor is faulty if you jump it and it runs and it dies when you unbridge it.Thinking about this I remember that there are a few differant ballast r Edited by user Wednesday, 9 May 2007 8:23:03 AM(UTC)
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Hi Guys.
Yes, I forgot that the ballast wire in the later models is also pink. Both the pictured wires are ballast type. The reason is says 'Do Not Cut' is because it is Ni-Chrome wire & cannot be soldered.
The pink I'm talking about is a normal (co |
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