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#1 Posted : Tuesday, 19 February 2008 9:59:44 AM(UTC)
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G'day Guys
I'm hopeing Brenden or some of the other guy's with strokers might help out here.
I have been offered a 383 4340 forged crank and H rods. I'm pretty sure the rods are Chev. They are 6.25" long.
Here is the crux of all stroker problems. Long rods = low rod angles which is good (low side loads etc). Long rods = short pistons ie pin to oil ring clearance problems which are bad particularly in a non race motor. This motor is going into an old F100 so I'm chasing torque and HP at low rev's.
Are the rods too long?
What do you suggest?

Thanks
Mike
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#2 Posted : Tuesday, 19 February 2008 10:56:40 PM(UTC)
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Yes the downside of stroking any engine is either shorter rods or pistons with a really high gudeon pin.

My brother has a daily driver XW with a Cleveland stroked to about 378 cubes using aftermarket Chev rods and it has run very well for a few yea

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#3 Posted : Wednesday, 20 February 2008 5:08:44 AM(UTC)
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I run 6.125" long H beams in mine. My engine see's 7600rpm without an issue. I'm sure it'd rev higher but the valve weight and springs won't cope. My engine sees plenty of street k's and will be 3 years old in Aug 08.

With 6.25" rods you really need a

Edited by user Wednesday, 20 February 2008 5:09:34 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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#4 Posted : Thursday, 21 February 2008 10:52:23 AM(UTC)
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G'day Guy's
Thanks for your input.
After a little more questioning it turns out the rods are large journal Chev and have to be 6.2" to clear the counter weights. (They must be huge) To use shorter rods you have to machine the counter weights back then
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#5 Posted : Friday, 22 February 2008 1:45:21 AM(UTC)
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That's usually the way it ends up with mucking around with the counter weights.

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#6 Posted : Monday, 25 February 2008 4:39:41 AM(UTC)
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I'm also thinking of going for one of these stroker kits that seem to be coming down in price daily.

What are some of the issues with these kits(if any)?

Is balancing these combo's exspensive?

I'm going for torque and horsepower below 6500RPM wit
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#7 Posted : Tuesday, 26 February 2008 10:37:18 AM(UTC)
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G'day Tex
You will now find yourself at the same crossroads I'm at.
Some stroker kits are getting cheaper. BUT remember the old saying "no such thing as a free lunch". The cheaper kits are often a hybrid crank that was originally designed to fit Windsor
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#8 Posted : Wednesday, 27 February 2008 4:01:06 AM(UTC)
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G'day Mike,thanks for the info on strokers.I'm still saving up the cash for a stroker and I'm still about a year away from making firm decesions on which way too go.
I've read some magazine articles on the subject but as usual they are not telling the wh
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#9 Posted : Wednesday, 27 February 2008 10:18:33 AM(UTC)
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G'day Tex
Sounds like you are looking for a build a little closer to Brenden's than mine.
I'm working on an extra zero to the Km's per year.

Brenden the hyd'roller cam was already happening as are a pair of CHI heads.

I'm thinking of going the L
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#10 Posted : Thursday, 28 February 2008 12:46:23 AM(UTC)
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You don't need to notch the block with a 393 or 408 unless the stroker kit isn't quite right. Everything just bolts in as per factory. My balance didn't cost more than $300 if memory serves me right. I'd have no issue using mine daily if I could afford th
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#11 Posted : Thursday, 28 February 2008 4:58:09 AM(UTC)
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Thanks lads, it's sounding pretty straight forward so far.

The reason I put the low km/year is I just don't think I'll get the chance to put much more than that on the old girl.I've retired her from daily driver duties.

H beam rods and a 4340crank w
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#12 Posted : Friday, 29 February 2008 2:52:51 AM(UTC)
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Most kits come with nothing but forged pistons. Durability wise strokers will run @ low rpm or high rpm without a problem.

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#13 Posted : Sunday, 2 March 2008 9:07:56 PM(UTC)
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Are these stroker kits internally or externally balanced,or can you have either,which is the better option with a manual? I'm thinking internally would be better!!!!!
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#14 Posted : Monday, 3 March 2008 3:46:40 AM(UTC)
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They vary. You'd have to ask the part supplier. I'm pretty sure my SCAT assembly was internal.

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#15 Posted : Thursday, 6 March 2008 9:19:04 AM(UTC)
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G'day Tex
If you look on the Scat website it says that cranks with a 6.125" or longer rod will internal balance. Rods 6.0" or less external balance and 28oz balancer.
Brenden do you have a part number for your pistons?
Everybody here is trying to sell
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#16 Posted : Thursday, 6 March 2008 7:44:23 PM(UTC)
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CHEERS,THANKS LADS!
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#17 Posted : Saturday, 8 March 2008 2:16:48 AM(UTC)
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Here's the piston specs straight from The Rocket Catalogue. They are listed under Ford Cleveland Stroker.

Arias

4.030 bore, 3.850 stroke, 6.125" rod length, 1.150 comp height, -10cc dome, .927 pin diameter, PN-AP331520

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#18 Posted : Thursday, 13 March 2008 10:28:38 AM(UTC)
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G'day Brenden
Thanks for the info.
I've got my bottom end locked in now and the heads are CHI 2V (keeping the gas velicity up at low RPM.) Figure I'll go with the cam John (CHI) recomends as he has been there before.
All I need to do now is open the w
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#19 Posted : Friday, 14 March 2008 2:05:25 AM(UTC)
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Sounds good you should have seen the 400ci Ford with the CHI 2V's, I saw last year :) It was built for a tow vehile. It can tow very very well and can also be raced :)

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#20 Posted : Friday, 14 March 2008 11:57:23 AM(UTC)
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G'day Brenden
What comp ratio are you running?
As I'm going the dedicated LPG route I should be able to bump my comp up a bit.
I havn't found any flat top pistons to suit the crank rod combo.
I guess the comp ratio would be too high for the average us
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