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i am considering getting stuck into the Kingswood build finally but starting with the rear end change and working forward on the drive train, got a mate to do the rust so that will happen soon as well i hope.
My question is ive been told to put a vl v8 diff bacause apparently they are a lot tougher than the ones from the vk's and I'm wondering if it is the same diff as whats in the XF falcons or not as they are both Borg Warner i realize that the stud pattern will different how hard will it be to change it to the commodore one?
will there be issues with length etc?
any help appreciated
thanks
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Hi hgkid1.
I think that the VL rear axle will be too narrow, you would be better off with a VN/VP unit.
It will also be cheaper & more plentiful.
In the VL series only the V8 & turbo models got the 4-pinion 28-spline diff centre but for VN onward |
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Oh ok thanks for the help thats good to know because i was told that the vl one would be right... glad i havent bought it yet :)
so how about the ford one? is that the right width relatively? are the tail shaft yolks the same?
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Quickest thing to do mate is find one and run the tape measure over it.Also take into account the type of wheels and offset you will be running in the future.I dont think the tailshft yokes are the same but I may be wrong there.
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hey thanks for the help everyone i worked out it would be far to long if i used the XF one as its 155.5cm from drum to drum inside diameter and also its an inconvenience to change the stud pattern, looks like the VN unit will work the best for what i want
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Hey KID, i recently put a VN 6 cyl diff in my HG Panno.... it was easy enough.... but its wide...ish..i have 17 " SV6 rims and they are a perfect fit, but they are dished inwards quite a lot ( as per the commodore ) i will use HQ disks up front , but the
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thanks very much for that Anthony. i took Dr terrys advice and have found a VN diff from a v6 exec which will need to be shortened and the joints changed to suite the Celica box i plan to put behind the EFI 202 motor i have purchased which will have a bit
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which flywheel and clutch plate do i use for this the Holden one or the Celica one? i have the VN diff now can so Im also wondering do i get a VN tail shaft and get it shortened and the Celica yoke put on or get an Hg one and get it shortened and both joi
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For the clutch, you retain the flywheel & pressure plate from the Holden.
The driven plate is a special - it contains a centre with the right splines for the celica box, while the friction surface is the same as the holden sizing. For red 6s, a toyota d |
Cheers,
Mick
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With a Celica 5 speed you can do what Mick has suggested with your tailshaft if you hybridise the front uni joint out of the Celica one and the HG one.
Alternately Dellow will sell you a new yoke that goes into the Celica box but has the uni joint si |
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thanks for the help Commodorenut and Jim5.0 Im glad i kept that spare tail shaft now, Can anyone give me the parts numbers for the bit i need? Im gonna use the 186 block so i need that Dyna driven plate part number? also the Celica tail shaft yoke and the
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you definitely need to talk to Dellow or CRS about these kits. They are available readily. www.dellowauto.com.au or www.rodshop.com.au
If at first |
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also while Im on here the VN rear end i have bought does it require a spreader to to pull the center out i.e swap from single legger to LSD?? and do the earlier commodores need a spreader to get them apart as well because my VC has blown seals on the axle
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I have pulled apart many Borg Warner rear ends and never had to use a spreader.
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OK thats a bonus but will the Salisbury need a spreader?
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I just had a nasty thought, if i am putting 186 with an EFI head Celica box, HQ brakes and Borg Warner rear end will i have to get the car engineered before i can get it registered?
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It usually depends on what state you live in but I would say that you should need one for the front brakes, diff and gearbox but not the head.
On another note I cant find the thread but someone mentioned different stud patterns and wheel offsets i |
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jim5.0 a bloke in the other thread i am discussing said that i can buy HQ rotors that have not had any stud pattern drilled in them and and get them drilled to commodore pattern so thats what i think i will do to get around this problem the wheels back sp
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The Commodore Rotors have the wheel mounting face out in line with the outer bearing whereas the HQ type have the mounting face inward sort of between the line of the bearings.
This is why I suggested trying to use Commodore hubs on the front so that |
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