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#1 Posted : Saturday, 12 July 2008 5:01:38 AM(UTC)
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Hi, anyone got a NOS HK GTS bootlid mold? Or maybe a Kingswood or Premier one?

I would like to know about a paint detail regarding the edge of the red paint.

There are 3 main ribs running along the mold, now say this U is that rib and imagine that the bottom of the U is flat like the rib and turn it upside down.

Should the red paint run up the sides of the U so that only the very top is anodised look ('chrome'), or should the red paint stop before it goes up the sides of the rib?

I can do it either way, but I suspect that the reason sometimes the restored ones look a bit 'wrong' is because the red is only supposed to be in the recess and not run up the sides of the rib.

Anybody expert in this area like to comment?

I have just finished chemically stripping off the old anodizing on one to get ready to re-anodize, and despite a lot of fear and trepidation it went amazingly well so next step is a bit of detailing and then to the platers and then I will do the red-outs.
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#2 Posted : Saturday, 12 July 2008 5:30:36 AM(UTC)
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I have a NOS pair of Kingswood/Monaro examples. If I get time on the weekend i'll have a look. Will be interested to see how yours goes as I have a dozen or so HK boot moulds and i'd like to get a few done ready for cars.

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#3 Posted : Saturday, 12 July 2008 5:30:36 AM(UTC)
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I have a NOS pair of Kingswood/Monaro examples. If I get time on the weekend ill have a look. Will be interested to see how yours goes as I have a dozen or so HK boot moulds and id like to get a few done ready for cars.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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#4 Posted : Saturday, 12 July 2008 6:46:46 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Byron, thatd be great.

It was a bit hard to drop the mold in the bath when despite scratching, fading etc it still looks fairly good and chromey

I used a sodium hydroxide bath, about 1 cup per bucket of water. Its scarey because we all know w
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#5 Posted : Saturday, 12 July 2008 6:46:46 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Byron, that'd be great.

It was a bit hard to drop the mold in the bath when despite scratching, fading etc it still looks fairly good and 'chromey'

I used a sodium hydroxide bath, about 1 cup per bucket of water. It's scarey because we all kn
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#6 Posted : Saturday, 12 July 2008 4:42:13 PM(UTC)
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correct me if I`m wrong but I have heard they use `candy apple red` to match in with the lenses on the boot strip.
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#7 Posted : Sunday, 13 July 2008 7:34:58 PM(UTC)
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The original was to have the base only painted red, however the "mask" kit does allow some creap up the bars. I suppose they did not expect too many people to be critical of the paint finish on this panel.

Warren
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#8 Posted : Tuesday, 15 July 2008 12:49:47 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Warren, thats what I thought

hi cloudy, yes a transparent red
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#9 Posted : Tuesday, 15 July 2008 1:50:39 AM(UTC)
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Dug them out. As Warren says, the red is only on the base and doesn't extend onto any of the "vertical" parts of the sides or bars. Paint is that transparent and thin it looks like it's part of the alloy. Reminds me of BMX parts from the early 80's.

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#10 Posted : Tuesday, 15 July 2008 1:50:39 AM(UTC)
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Dug them out. As Warren says, the red is only on the base and doesnt extend onto any of the "vertical" parts of the sides or bars. Paint is that transparent and thin it looks like its part of the alloy. Reminds me of BMX parts from the early 80s.

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#11 Posted : Tuesday, 15 July 2008 11:37:20 PM(UTC)
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I had a HK and when I did the strip up I used VHT candy apple red and then when it dried a couple of coats of clear. It looked good.The masking tape I ran down the two sides of the U and only painted the bottom flat section.If you paint up the sides then
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