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Radiator - Aluminum - Holden V8 radiator
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commodorenut Offline
#1 Posted : Sunday, 26 August 2018 12:34:02 PM(UTC)
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I've shied away from them because friends who have run them in early Commodores have found they only last a few years before failure, and nobody wants to try to repair them for fear the next breech is just waiting to happen. However, they do tend to work well as far as heat rejection, especially when using thermo fans.

Each failure I've seen has been caused by internal corrosion, to the point where it springs a leak in the core - usually near the plate that forms part of the tank.
I believe it's de due to the galvanic cell that's created with dissimilar metals (cast iron block, alloy radiator).

But for the price, you could argue that changing the coolant & radiator every 3 years isn't that expensive.....
Cheers,

Mick
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tonyf on 26/08/2018(UTC)
wbute Offline
#2 Posted : Sunday, 26 August 2018 4:39:21 PM(UTC)
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Hmm. Changing a cooked motor or being stranded in whoop whoop might be a bit more of a persuasion.
Fairly sure the only advantage of aluminium over copper is the price. The rest is just minor points to sell a cheaper material.
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tonyf on 26/08/2018(UTC)
KBM Offline
#3 Posted : Sunday, 26 August 2018 7:08:34 PM(UTC)
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Biggest problem for most people isn't price but access to good copper cores. grand plus for full restored original or $150 for a few good years and maybe need to change. most corrosion I've seen in early motors is when people used that cheap green "anti boil" crap. it ate every piece of alloy in the cooling system
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tonyf on 26/08/2018(UTC)
tonyf Offline
#4 Posted : Monday, 27 August 2018 12:02:43 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: commodorenut Go to Quoted Post
I've shied away from them because friends who have run them in early Commodores have found they only last a few years before failure, and nobody wants to try to repair them for fear the next breech is just waiting to happen. However, they do tend to work well as far as heat rejection, especially when using thermo fans.

Each failure I've seen has been caused by internal corrosion, to the point where it springs a leak in the core - usually near the plate that forms part of the tank.
I believe it's de due to the galvanic cell that's created with dissimilar metals (cast iron block, alloy radiator).

But for the price, you could argue that changing the coolant & radiator every 3 years isn't that expensive.....




Thanks. Any particular brand or supplier?
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commodorenut Offline
#5 Posted : Monday, 27 August 2018 6:35:02 AM(UTC)
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No real brands in particular - it's like a lot of eBay stuff now - many sellers all selling the same imported item, and "brands" don't mean anything - it could have 15 different brands on the same part out of the same factory. Even the local radiator guy I go to for "real" work (ie taking tanks off & rodding the cores) supplies them as a cheap alternative. I'm more inclined to think about buying from him, as he at least backs up the warranty on things.

Fortunately I haven't had to go down this path, as he can still get copper cores at a reasonable cost, and will build a "correct replica" using my old radiator's other components (tanks, neck, caps etc) because the newer ones are "generic" to suit more models, and either don't look right, or don't function right (such as the cap being hard to get on because it's on the tank, not on a neck).

The comment about coolant is probably your best advice. I'd be tempted to consider the red/pink coolant Holden recommend for the VE V8. Not that it has the same issue - being an alloy motor - but the aluminium radiators in them last 10 years without failure - and failure is normally a crimping of the tank, or leaks around the crappy quick connectors on the motor (that simpllify assembly).
Cheers,

Mick
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wbute Offline
#6 Posted : Monday, 27 August 2018 1:38:08 PM(UTC)
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The price issue is completely related to copper being hard to get, hence copper cores no longer being produced. Copper is clearly a superior product in a cast iron block engine. Alloy is brilliant in something like a dirt bike, where 300 grams weight saving is a massive advantage. They are a quality radiator though, and they never crack, unless they get damaged in a stack.
As far as coolant goes, you need to find out what type and often what other adatives you need to stop the corrosion/ electrolysis between the two metal types in the cooling system.
Red and green coolants usually relate to more than metal types, things such as wet sleeve or dry sleeve Diesel engines etc are also the reason. Plus I have heard not to mix them as the result is like glue.
Manufacturers spend millions working out what type of coolants work in their cooling systems, as soon as you change a major component in the system you are on your own. As Commodore nut said, you find out pretty quickly that the different material hasn’t been used because it’s actually superior to the old type.
Another possibility is using a sacrificial anode. People use them in boats to stop corrosion between aluminium hulls and other metals used, like stainless shafts etc.
The corrosion is caused by varying electric charges between the two different metals used. So no matter what you do, you can’t change physics and the cast iron is going to use the alloy radiator as a sacrificial anode unless you can find a metal that has a lower charge than the aluminium.

Edited by user Monday, 27 August 2018 1:49:25 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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tonyf on 28/08/2018(UTC)
greenhj Offline
#7 Posted : Tuesday, 28 August 2018 6:18:06 PM(UTC)
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If you are considering aluminium, I suggest finding an easily sourced OEM style that will fit and is cheap.

I fitted a VT plastic/alloy to my car, lots of work to get it to fit (I moved it forward 3" as well but it will not fit HQ-HZ anyway) and a replacement will probably cost less than 200 bucks and any parts place can get it within 24hrs if it isn't on the shelf. Lots of towns have repco/autobarn/supercheap.

The thermostat housing was always the sacrificial anode, then people got clever and fitted chromed/shiny housings which extended the life of the cheapest part at the expense of the expensive parts.

Use a good corrosion inhibitor, for a holdenv8 with aluminium parts something that meets OEM spec is good. Stray current is bad, so is earthing any part of the metal core.

EDIT: I didnt notice your location, you probably dont have repco over there d'oh!

Edited by user Tuesday, 28 August 2018 6:21:50 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
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tonyf on 28/08/2018(UTC)
RigPig Offline
#8 Posted : Wednesday, 29 August 2018 1:33:42 AM(UTC)
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ADRAD make copper core radiators including brass tanks and steel side supports for all Aussie cars.
They're made in Australia and they're about $500 for a 6.cyl on eBay
Phone NATRAD and get a quote for a copper and brass ADRAD radiator.
ADRAD own NATRAD.
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tonyf on 29/08/2018(UTC), wbute on 29/08/2018(UTC)
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