Welcome Guest! To enable all features please Login or Register.

Notification

Icon
Error

Login


Take the time to read our Privacy Policy.
Radiator - Aluminum - Holden V8 radiator
Options Go to last post Go to first unread
Previous Topic Next Topic
commodorenut Offline
#1 Posted : Sunday, 26 August 2018 12:34:02 PM(UTC)
commodorenut

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 2/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,135

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 35 time(s) in 33 post(s)
I've shied away from them because friends who have run them in early Commodores have found they only last a few years before failure, and nobody wants to try to repair them for fear the next breech is just waiting to happen. However, they do tend to work well as far as heat rejection, especially when using thermo fans.

Each failure I've seen has been caused by internal corrosion, to the point where it springs a leak in the core - usually near the plate that forms part of the tank.
I believe it's de due to the galvanic cell that's created with dissimilar metals (cast iron block, alloy radiator).

But for the price, you could argue that changing the coolant & radiator every 3 years isn't that expensive.....
Cheers,

Mick
_______________________________________________________________

Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
Back to top
 1 user thanked commodorenut for this useful post.
tonyf on 26/08/2018(UTC)
wbute Offline
#2 Posted : Sunday, 26 August 2018 4:39:21 PM(UTC)
wbute

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/01/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,125

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 18 time(s) in 17 post(s)
Hmm. Changing a cooked motor or being stranded in whoop whoop might be a bit more of a persuasion.
Fairly sure the only advantage of aluminium over copper is the price. The rest is just minor points to sell a cheaper material.
Back to top
 1 user thanked wbute for this useful post.
tonyf on 26/08/2018(UTC)
KBM Offline
#3 Posted : Sunday, 26 August 2018 7:08:34 PM(UTC)
KBM

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 21/04/2017(UTC)
Posts: 293
Australia
Location: Tolmie

Thanks: 2 times
Was thanked: 24 time(s) in 24 post(s)
Biggest problem for most people isn't price but access to good copper cores. grand plus for full restored original or $150 for a few good years and maybe need to change. most corrosion I've seen in early motors is when people used that cheap green "anti boil" crap. it ate every piece of alloy in the cooling system
Back to top
 1 user thanked KBM for this useful post.
tonyf on 26/08/2018(UTC)
tonyf Offline
#4 Posted : Monday, 27 August 2018 12:02:43 AM(UTC)
tonyf

Rank: Newbie

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 26/08/2018(UTC)
Posts: 3
Trinidad And Tobago
Location: Arima

Thanks: 6 times
Originally Posted by: commodorenut Go to Quoted Post
I've shied away from them because friends who have run them in early Commodores have found they only last a few years before failure, and nobody wants to try to repair them for fear the next breech is just waiting to happen. However, they do tend to work well as far as heat rejection, especially when using thermo fans.

Each failure I've seen has been caused by internal corrosion, to the point where it springs a leak in the core - usually near the plate that forms part of the tank.
I believe it's de due to the galvanic cell that's created with dissimilar metals (cast iron block, alloy radiator).

But for the price, you could argue that changing the coolant & radiator every 3 years isn't that expensive.....




Thanks. Any particular brand or supplier?
Back to top
commodorenut Offline
#5 Posted : Monday, 27 August 2018 6:35:02 AM(UTC)
commodorenut

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 2/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 3,135

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 35 time(s) in 33 post(s)
No real brands in particular - it's like a lot of eBay stuff now - many sellers all selling the same imported item, and "brands" don't mean anything - it could have 15 different brands on the same part out of the same factory. Even the local radiator guy I go to for "real" work (ie taking tanks off & rodding the cores) supplies them as a cheap alternative. I'm more inclined to think about buying from him, as he at least backs up the warranty on things.

Fortunately I haven't had to go down this path, as he can still get copper cores at a reasonable cost, and will build a "correct replica" using my old radiator's other components (tanks, neck, caps etc) because the newer ones are "generic" to suit more models, and either don't look right, or don't function right (such as the cap being hard to get on because it's on the tank, not on a neck).

The comment about coolant is probably your best advice. I'd be tempted to consider the red/pink coolant Holden recommend for the VE V8. Not that it has the same issue - being an alloy motor - but the aluminium radiators in them last 10 years without failure - and failure is normally a crimping of the tank, or leaks around the crappy quick connectors on the motor (that simpllify assembly).
Cheers,

Mick
_______________________________________________________________

Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
Back to top
wbute Offline
#6 Posted : Monday, 27 August 2018 1:38:08 PM(UTC)
wbute

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 25/01/2010(UTC)
Posts: 1,125

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 18 time(s) in 17 post(s)
The price issue is completely related to copper being hard to get, hence copper cores no longer being produced. Copper is clearly a superior product in a cast iron block engine. Alloy is brilliant in something like a dirt bike, where 300 grams weight saving is a massive advantage. They are a quality radiator though, and they never crack, unless they get damaged in a stack.
As far as coolant goes, you need to find out what type and often what other adatives you need to stop the corrosion/ electrolysis between the two metal types in the cooling system.
Red and green coolants usually relate to more than metal types, things such as wet sleeve or dry sleeve Diesel engines etc are also the reason. Plus I have heard not to mix them as the result is like glue.
Manufacturers spend millions working out what type of coolants work in their cooling systems, as soon as you change a major component in the system you are on your own. As Commodore nut said, you find out pretty quickly that the different material hasn’t been used because it’s actually superior to the old type.
Another possibility is using a sacrificial anode. People use them in boats to stop corrosion between aluminium hulls and other metals used, like stainless shafts etc.
The corrosion is caused by varying electric charges between the two different metals used. So no matter what you do, you can’t change physics and the cast iron is going to use the alloy radiator as a sacrificial anode unless you can find a metal that has a lower charge than the aluminium.

Edited by user Monday, 27 August 2018 1:49:25 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
Back to top
 1 user thanked wbute for this useful post.
tonyf on 28/08/2018(UTC)
greenhj Offline
#7 Posted : Tuesday, 28 August 2018 6:18:06 PM(UTC)
greenhj

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 12/05/2006(UTC)
Posts: 493

Thanks: 5 times
Was thanked: 12 time(s) in 10 post(s)
If you are considering aluminium, I suggest finding an easily sourced OEM style that will fit and is cheap.

I fitted a VT plastic/alloy to my car, lots of work to get it to fit (I moved it forward 3" as well but it will not fit HQ-HZ anyway) and a replacement will probably cost less than 200 bucks and any parts place can get it within 24hrs if it isn't on the shelf. Lots of towns have repco/autobarn/supercheap.

The thermostat housing was always the sacrificial anode, then people got clever and fitted chromed/shiny housings which extended the life of the cheapest part at the expense of the expensive parts.

Use a good corrosion inhibitor, for a holdenv8 with aluminium parts something that meets OEM spec is good. Stray current is bad, so is earthing any part of the metal core.

EDIT: I didnt notice your location, you probably dont have repco over there d'oh!

Edited by user Tuesday, 28 August 2018 6:21:50 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified
Back to top
 1 user thanked greenhj for this useful post.
tonyf on 28/08/2018(UTC)
RigPig Offline
#8 Posted : Wednesday, 29 August 2018 1:33:42 AM(UTC)
RigPig

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 29/07/2006(UTC)
Posts: 766
Location: in the shed

Thanks: 8 times
Was thanked: 14 time(s) in 13 post(s)
ADRAD make copper core radiators including brass tanks and steel side supports for all Aussie cars.
They're made in Australia and they're about $500 for a 6.cyl on eBay
Phone NATRAD and get a quote for a copper and brass ADRAD radiator.
ADRAD own NATRAD.
Back to top
 2 users thanked RigPig for this useful post.
tonyf on 29/08/2018(UTC), wbute on 29/08/2018(UTC)
Users browsing this topic
Guest
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2024, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.076 seconds.