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Anyone here with a decent knowledge of the old school 'canister/ barrel' ignition coils? I've thrown an electronic ign conversion into my Buick.
The kit's makers want a coil with a primary resistance of 1.3 to 1.8 Ohms. Too low and I'll kill the electronic module.
The existing coil has a resistance of 2.8 Ohms. That should be OK, but I'd rather err on the side of caution.
The rest of the ign system is stock- resistance wire,etc. So I'm wondering if a coil for a Chev 350 would suit?
My research has yielded conflicting information re the primary resistance. And the online catalogues rarely list technical information.
Th
Any thoughts?
Cheers,
Chris |
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What brand/type of electronic ignition are you using. I sell & fit Petronix units from the USA & they work quite well with their own 'Flame Thrower' brand coil which has a primary resistance of 1.5 ohms. The spark output from this set-up is impressive.
Most aftermarket electronic conversion don't require a ballast, they operate on a full 12V at the coil.
Also the 2.8 ohm coil you have would normally to fitted to a non-ballast set-up.
A 2.8 ohm coil will have less output, but won't draw too much current so can't burn out the module. It's too low a primary resistance that kills modules
Dr Terry |
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Dr Terry beat me to it, but I'll add the information anyway.
The HKTG 307/327/350 coil is a GMH 7440513 and they have a primary resistance of 1.35 ohms, but are hard to find and at least 50 years old.
The GMH 7440470 is used on HTG 253 and 308 and HQ 350 and most 253 and 308 onwards from HQ. It is 1.2 ohms. Unsuitable for you, and also quite old.
The ubiquitous Bosch GT40R, often used as a replacement, is 1.25 ohms, so also unsuitable.
If you still have the ballast resistance in circuit the output of a 2.8 ohm coil would be very low. Low resistances are hard to measure accurately, so I wonder where you came up with 2.8 ohms?
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Dr Terry; What brand/type of electronic ignition are you using. I sell & fit Petronix units from the USA & they work quite well with their own 'Flame Thrower' brand coil which has a primary resistance of 1.5 ohms. The spark output from this set-up is impressive.
Most aftermarket electronic conversion don't require a ballast, they operate on a full 12V at the coil.
Also the 2.8 ohm coil you have would normally to fitted to a non-ballast set-up.
A 2.8 ohm coil will have less output, but won't draw too much current so can't burn out the module. It's too low a primary resistance that kills modules.It's the Lectric Limited Kit: https://www.lectriclimit...nition-conversion-85474
It's purely a points conversion, designed to keep a stock appearance, with a single wire to the distributor. It's designed to work with the factory ballast resistor. The makers say primary resistance of 1.2-1.8 Ohms, ideally 1.3. They are very specific in avoiding low resistance coils- around the .5 ohm range, such as CDI and HEI coils. The 2.8 Ohm coil was one I got from a mate. It's been working fine for 8 years, though lately I was getting a high RPM miss. gm5735: I measured the existing coil with two different digital multimeters. I will be checking the voltage to the coil in both crank and run modes. From what I've found online and you've confirmed with your resistance figures, the Bosch GT 40R should work. Thank you for your answers. Much appreciated. |
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I've used the Lectric modules in several cars with the GT40R without any issues. (Once the module clearance, advance plate flatness, and advance plate earth cable issues have all been addressed!)
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Originally Posted by: gm5735  I've used the Lectric modules in several cars with the GT40R without any issues. (Once the module clearance, advance plate flatness, and advance plate earth cable issues have all been addressed!) Hearing you on those! Thanks heaps and goodnight. |
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