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Hi all,
I just put a new carbie kit in a ww Stromberg for a 75 253 and it seems to have the same as issue prior to repairs. It is now idling beautifully but I can't get it to rev unless you feather the throttle past the initial dead spot. It then runs fine. So it has a dead spot just past idle position. The manual choke does not seem connected (has no cable connection) and it also has an inline solenoid (it was on gas). I'm just wondering if either of these could be upsetting it (you wouldn't think it would rev at all if it was the solenoid) or could it be that I have not set the carbie correctly???
Thanks
Peter
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Originally Posted by: cjhols  Hi all,
I just put a new carbie kit in a ww Stromberg for a 75 253 and it seems to have the same as issue prior to repairs. It is now idling beautifully but I can't get it to rev unless you feather the throttle past the initial dead spot. It then runs fine. So it has a dead spot just past idle position. The manual choke does not seem connected (has no cable connection) and it also has an inline solenoid (it was on gas). I'm just wondering if either of these could be upsetting it (you wouldn't think it would rev at all if it was the solenoid) or could it be that I have not set the carbie correctly???
Thanks
Peter
you have an off-idle stumble .. (or flatspot if you like) not choke related .. it is because the WW does NOT have a accel pump to cover that transition from idle to open throttle (like most carbys) So how does the WW cope with that. It has a 'transition' port and the key to getting that working properly relates to the initial idle mixture setting. that is... The key to getting a Stromberg to work smoothly off-idle as you crack open the pedal is in knowing how to adjust the idle mixture screw properly. You need the idle mixture set so that BOTH the primary and transition idle ports have provided enough fuel on engine acceleration to prevent that stumble/flatspot from happening as you crack the throttle open slightly. Did you set the Primary screw adjustment during the rebuild according to the book? Edited by user Tuesday, 15 September 2020 4:46:05 PM(UTC)
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Hi,
To be honest I am not as mechanically articulate as most but I do enjoy working on the Old Girl. I went back down and set the fast idle as per the book then the slow idle. I then re-set the idle mixture screws to 1 2/3 rds from snug. I also got rid of the cut-off solenoid. She now idles beautifully at 600 rpm and about 8 DBTDC with far less encouragement needed to rev. Still a very minor bark and stumble on rare occasion. Any thoughts on fine tuning???
Thanks
Peter
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Originally Posted by: cjhols Hi,
To be honest I am not as mechanically articulate as most but I do enjoy working on the Old Girl. I went back down and set the fast idle as per the book then the slow idle. I then re-set the idle mixture screws to 1 2/3 rds from snug. I also got rid of the cut-off solenoid. She now idles beautifully at 600 rpm and about 8 DBTDC with far less encouragement needed to rev. Still a very minor bark and stumble on rare occasion. Any thoughts on fine tuning???
Thanks
Peter from memory (its 30+ years since I had a fiddle with a WW2! ) ...set idle and mixture (and timing) as you have done and then ENRICHEN the mixture turning the screw 1/4 turn out a time, and see if the stumble goes away. If not, turn the mixture screw out another 1/4 turn do not go more than 4 1/4 turns out though as I recall Edited by user Wednesday, 16 September 2020 10:33:10 AM(UTC)
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Club circuit racing...the best fun you can have with your pants on |
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Thanks for that. I'll give it a go. On another matter are the front outer guards on a HJ just bolted on?
Thanks
Peter
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Originally Posted by: cjhols On another matter are the front outer guards on a HJ just bolted on? Yes. I usually take the inner and outer guards off as one piece then split them after. I find this easier. Nothing else needs to come off to do this except the battery tray on the passenger side. Unless you remove both guards, then the bonnet needs to come off first. If only taking one guard off you need to support the bonnet. A 2x4 resting under the bonnet from the front to the cab along with a prop from the radiator to the bonnet latch works well. There are two bolts on the firewall in the cab that need to be undone (two for each guard). Also there is one that is tucked in up under at the front. You can't see it, you'll need to find it with your fingers. Needs a 6 inch socket extender to get at it. PITA. Take the bolt near the plenum chamber out last. It will hold the guard in place on it's own. The guard will lift out then but watch it doesn't drop down. Have fun!
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Fantastic information. Thank you!
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Hi all,
Success - Not too hard once you get going. I was wondering how hard it is to replace the sill under the door. I know you cab get new ones. It it just spot welded? and if so where is is spot welded?
Thanks
Peter
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Back when I used to play with these I’d just buy a whole rust free Deville or Premier and use it for rust repair sections. Today you’ll need a repro panel. Unless you go trolling inland and find an old HQ-WB on a farm somewhere.
Yes the sills are mostly spot welded, but are actually welded in a few places. Once you take the kick plates off you’ll see. On yours you’ll find a join somewhere in this area that isn’t factory. |
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