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SLENUT Offline
#1 Posted : Monday, 1 November 2021 8:06:11 PM(UTC)
SLENUT

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Hello all.
For a long time, I've been having issues on the 308 in my VB SL/E getting real hot. I'm sure on the temp gauge it should be at the end of the blue mark, lst few times its been closer to the red or 3/4 mark. Open the bonnet and the motor seems very hot.

Now over the last few months and weeks i've replaced water pump, thermostat to a 82c one, radiator hoses, heater hoses. I have used a flush gun to clean radiator out, yes some brown muck came out. I'm hoping that will help getting cool.

I'm also going to replace the clutch fan hub, i believe the one on the car is 42 years old so maybe needs replacing.


What else should look at if its still boiling to much? I'm thinking timing might be looked at, the spark plugs seem to look like its running right. It doesn't seem to be a blown headgasket, no tell tale signs on that.
The Commodore SL/E fanatic.
HK1837 Offline
#2 Posted : Monday, 1 November 2021 8:41:15 PM(UTC)
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Is it actually overheating or the gauge telling you it is?

Have you removed the 0V terminal connection from the battery to the radiator support? I’ve had them show hot when that connection is missing, as the temperature sender in the engine is simply a resistance to the frame and back to the 0V (-) terminal, however without that connection to the body it stuffs up the resistance as the engine and transmission are robber mounted as is the exhaust and rear axle. So you are measuring back up the throttle cable or through the coolant or similar, from the engine block connection to the sender.

If it is really getting hot it might still be the radiator, to clean them properly you really need to get a radiator shop to do it.

Or is the radiator shroud missing?

Is the engine 60 thou over? I have seen 308’s get really hot when 60 over.

Another is the thermostat bypass path, is that still in place or blocked off? Normally done via the heater circuit.
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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Smitty2 on 2/11/2021(UTC)
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#3 Posted : Tuesday, 2 November 2021 6:04:38 AM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: HK1837 Go to Quoted Post
Is it actually overheating or the gauge telling you it is?

Have you removed the 0V terminal connection from the battery to the radiator support? I’ve had them show hot when that connection is missing, as the temperature sender in the engine is simply a resistance to the frame and back to the 0V (-) terminal, however without that connection to the body it stuffs up the resistance as the engine and transmission are robber mounted as is the exhaust and rear axle. So you are measuring back up the throttle cable or through the coolant or similar, from the engine block connection to the sender.

If it is really getting hot it might still be the radiator, to clean them properly you really need to get a radiator shop to do it.

Or is the radiator shroud missing?

Is the engine 60 thou over? I have seen 308’s get really hot when 60 over.

Another is the thermostat bypass path, is that still in place or blocked off? Normally done via the heater circuit.



some great tips there HK...

Commodores with the factory fan MUST have the shroud AND the rad cover (plastic cover strip between rad and panel)
must have the short bypass hose in the coolant circuit and the obvious
... don't believe the gauges on a 40 yo car .. without testing
Club circuit racing...the best fun you can have with your pants on
SLENUT Offline
#4 Posted : Tuesday, 2 November 2021 7:58:16 AM(UTC)
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Its actually over heating, like i could cook a meal on the motor.
The 0V on the radiator support is still there. The bore is stock as, no over bore at all.

The shroud is there, I haven't blocked anything off at all.
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castellan Offline
#5 Posted : Tuesday, 2 November 2021 11:18:34 AM(UTC)
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Most likely the radiator cores will be blocked.

Or you have a radiator hose that is buggered and sucking in. sometimes they have a wire coil inside of them and when that corrodes the hose just sucks flat blocking the water flow.

Sometimes a big ball of rust crap can block and lodge in some of a point in an engine.

Maybe the muffler is buggered restricting flow.

Or the snorkel on the air filter has a dead rat or something in it, making it run to lean.

Edited by user Tuesday, 2 November 2021 11:20:22 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

HK1837 Offline
#6 Posted : Tuesday, 2 November 2021 1:48:39 PM(UTC)
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I’d also say get the radiator professionally cleaned.

Did you put the right water pump back in? The one with the barrel impeller not the tin plate one?
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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Smitty2 on 2/11/2021(UTC)
SLENUT Offline
#7 Posted : Tuesday, 2 November 2021 7:48:01 PM(UTC)
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Both radiator hoses brand new.
Has after market SAAS chrome air cleaner/filter, not the original type with snorkal.

And yep, made sure not to get the tin plate water pump.
The Commodore SL/E fanatic.
HK1837 Offline
#8 Posted : Tuesday, 2 November 2021 8:11:59 PM(UTC)
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Is it spewing fluid out the recovery cap?
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SLENUT Offline
#9 Posted : Tuesday, 2 November 2021 8:16:22 PM(UTC)
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Was before i replaced thermostat and also radiator cap.
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Smitty2 Offline
#10 Posted : Tuesday, 2 November 2021 8:51:20 PM(UTC)
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Originally Posted by: HK1837 Go to Quoted Post
I’d also say get the radiator professionally cleaned.

..............


even that may get NOT 100% results Brick wall

the race car system got cleaned by a local rad place (block and radiator) annually after the season finishes.
it also runs a filter sock with demineralised water and anti rust additive

Dyno run late last year .. and boom radiator spits the dummy big time, splits the tank from the core
Inspection shows this -



Club circuit racing...the best fun you can have with your pants on
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