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Hi all.
When I turn the key to the "on" or accessories, the starter wants to start the car. If I turn the key all the way (so I have spring resistance) it stops.
I have an MSD ignition system installed 6al, dizzy and coil. I have wired that up correctly and tripled checked. I have replaced the ignition switch as I thought that may be the problem and have tried it in all possible positions slide back and forth to desired So shaft has full range position and tighten with the 2 bolts that attach it on the steering column.
I have rewired the engine bay and followed the Gregory's wiring diagram for this model (HZ prem). Everything seems to work except the car wanting to start with the key in the "on" or "acc" positions and turns off when to key is turned fully forward. I have not used the original pink wire that went to the coil +. I have wired the msd directly to the fuse box to a terminal that has power when the key is turned to on. I have the starter to the battery (as usual) red wire (fusible link) to the same connection on the starter motor and the violet to the smaller connection just under the main battery connection.
I have no idea where to look next. Is there another wire that needs to run to the starter? Does that connect to the other small connection situated just above the main battery connection? Has anyone have any suggestions?
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hi what engine is in the car? some chev starter have two terminals on i think from memory on goes back to the coil as a shunt, so youdont get low voltage at the coil while cranking, thats presuming the starter has the extra pin.
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Rank: Member
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It sounds like you have two small connectors on the starter plus the one large battery feed. If so, i think you have the red and violet connectors reversed. As petaus says, there is one which "boosts" the coil with 12 V when cranking (which I think your violet is now connected to) and one which is the switched feed for starting (which should be violet, but now has the red (fusible link) connected to it. What I do with the chev engines is actually run a remote solenoid, to prevent the permanent battery feed for the car running past the hot manifold all the time. Run the battery to one side of the solenoid, with the alternator and main fuse feeds coming off that same terminal. Small terminals are the violet starter switch feed and the other side to earth. Then run nice big juicy cable to starter motor, with large terminal connected to small start terminal with either thick wire or a steel strap. When you activate starter, the solenoid switches the battery current down the large cable to both the positive and the starter circuit feed on the sterter motor. When normal running, the large cable has no current, it is all done at the solenoid, away from the heat. Edited by user Tuesday, 24 January 2012 10:56:38 PM(UTC)
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Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/10/2007(UTC)
Posts: 126
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Hi Jabba and Petaus.
I have been looking for a crossover and can't find it.The fusible link is attached to the red wire which goes to the big terminal that also connects the lead from the battery. The violet wire is going to the bottom pin on the starter. As is shown on the wiring diagram for this model. Remember, I have only rewired the engine bay, not under the dash. As I have an MSD 6al installed the pink is not used and the yellow (ignition) wire from ignition switch attaches to the small red wire from the msd 6al. The MSD 6al has a big red wire that goes to the battery and a big black wire that goes to the negative (earth). A grey wire for tacho and the white for a kill switch or is not used as I have an MSD dizzy. All very basic. I have followed all wires and they are joined together correctly and joined with the correct wires.
I have checked the power all through the ignition switch and all is working as it should.
The way I see it is that the starter should only crank when the key is all the way forward under spring pressure which connects the Yellow ignition wire which used to go to coil+ and now goes to the red MSD 6al wire (as per wiring diagram)The pink used to be the resistor wire. The red wire from the ignition switch is attached to the fusible link wire. The violet is attached to the violet etc.
I have replaced the ignition switch and have the same problem. Auto electrics send me mad. I am on a pension and really can't afford an Auto electrician but am willing to pay for help but none of the ones I have called want the job, I have been let down by 3 so far, They just don't show up and when called all I get is (I'm to busy) My question is, Why say that they will come and have a look when they have no intention of having a look?.. To small for them to be bothered with I suppose. I have found this to be a common problem with auto electricians. Can never find one to fix a small problem. Not worth there time.. They are like taxi drivers, they will wait and wait for the big jobs and ignore the small jobs.
I am at my wits end. I'm at the point where I just want to blow up this bloody car up. It is just too stressful. I wish I had never started this project. I am sure it is laughing at me. All I need to do is fix this bloody problem and I have a working car. This is my only car, so without it I am stranded. Does any one know any auto electricians who can come to my place in Munno para Adelaide and help me solve this issue? I am willing to pay, But cannot afford exorbitant pricing. I can afford to pay upto $200.
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 2/10/2007(UTC)
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I found the problem.. Somebody suggested it mey be the Neutral safety switch. They suggested I join The purple wires together and don't connect them to the safety switch and see if the starter cranks in the right key position. It did crank with the key under spring pressure and didn't try to crank in the on position, so I had the purple wires on the wrong pins..Doh! LOL
Thanks for all the help from all of you..
Dave
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Rank: Member
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Ahh, yes. Sorry, hadn't thought of that. I actually have something similar with my Shifter, where shifting from reverse to park actually triggers the starter. I have a "kill" switch on the shifter box that cuts the neutral safety switch, so that even in park or neutral (or shifting from reverse to park) it doesn't try and kick over starter. |
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