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Rhys Offline
#1 Posted : Friday, 20 February 2009 8:15:19 PM(UTC)
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Hi All,
The fuel gauge in my HQ has always read about half of whats actually in there. Yesterday after fitting a GTS dash I have realised that its probably the sender not the gauge. There is about 70 ohms of resistance between the sender and earth. From what the manual says, it should be 30 ohms when full, and 0 ohms when empty, so its acting as an open circuit therefore making the NEW gauge read past full. Id say the old gauge must have burnt out/got damaged hence the low readings.

I've tried 3 gauges and they all read past full, so I've disconnected it until its fixed so they don't get damaged as well. Is it likely the sender is buggered, or could it be something as simple as a bad earth between the fuel tank and the body? I've checked the resistance directly from the sender to earth and its the same as the gauge end so the wire itself is OK.

Bit of a poor design in my opinion, the gauge working in the reverse way to HJ onwards, as there is much more chance of an open circuit on the sender wire than short circuit...

If it is definitely the sender, are there any tricks to replacing it? Its a Statesman.

any help much appreciated.
GeeR Offline
#2 Posted : Friday, 20 February 2009 9:45:04 PM(UTC)
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I understood 70 ohms was about the correct empty reading for an early thermal sender?

Also, was / is your Statesman air-conditioned? From memory, there is a seperate sender for the air con cars.

If youve definitely got an (early or late version) matched sender / guage pair then an automotive instrument biz can calibrate the gauge if you take them both in to them - or confirm that you need to obtain another sender.

Assume most / some auto sparkys would also be capable of doing this?


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Dr Terry Offline
#3 Posted : Friday, 20 February 2009 10:24:35 PM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by GeeR
I understood 70 ohms was about the correct empty reading for an early thermal sender?

Yes & no.

The early sender is the magnetic type (0 ohms empty & 30 ohms full).

The late sender is the thermal type & is 73 ohms empty & 10 ohms full.

Dr Terry.
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
Tour Director Offline
#4 Posted : Friday, 20 February 2009 10:37:54 PM(UTC)
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Dr Terry is correct with the two different ohm readings.Rare Spares has two new sender units SU1018N (thermal) and SU1014N (magnetic) both have been calibration checked by a recognised instrument repairer. They advised some time ago that due to people mixing, matching and changing parts it is possible to get a mismatched sender/gauge combo.It may be adviseable to talk to your local instrument repairer and get their guidance. Another factor is bad earthing that can also affect the operation.Unfortunately they cannot advise confidently how to ensure the correct application without having the actual vehicle,gauge and sender together in front of them.
Dr Terry Offline
#5 Posted : Friday, 20 February 2009 10:57:36 PM(UTC)
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Hi Tour Director.

As GeeR said, an HQ 308 with factory a/cond uses a fuel tank sender with a different base. They have an extra hose fitting for the fuel/vapour return. The Rares ones suit the cars without factory a/cond. If Rhyss car has no a/cond, then his problem is solved. If he needs the factory a/cond type, then he will have to have his sender reconditioned.

Dr Terry.
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
Rhys Offline
#6 Posted : Saturday, 21 February 2009 1:55:05 AM(UTC)
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Hi Guys,

Thanks a lot for the replies. Its an October 1973 model and has a factory 350 and air. The gauges I took out were 9/1973 and I replaced the big fuel gauge with the small fuel/oil gauge which was also a 9/1973. It has the strap that earths it to the dash frame. When its not earthed, it seems to read the correct figure, but then the oil gauge doesnt work. When its earthed with that strap, the oil gauge works but the fuel gauge goes past full.

Starting to think I may have the incorrect gauge, even though its the same vintage as the car. I have a fair idea that it would probably have less than 1/4 of a tank at the moment. If its reading 70 ohms and nearly empty, then is it possible that the sender is working correctly and I just have to get the gauge calibrated to suit?

Rhys
Dr Terry Offline
#7 Posted : Saturday, 21 February 2009 2:41:49 AM(UTC)
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Hi Rhys.

What a conundrum !!

Firstly 9/73 is right on the changeover from magnetic to thermal type fuel gauges, so you could have either type fitted. The oil gauge did not change type, so its sender is probably OK.

The dash earth strap must be connected, especially if the fuel gauge is thermal, otherwise it will burn out. So connect the earth strap permanently & carry out a few tests. Get a resistor substitution switch from Jaycar or similar & do some tests by substituting those values for the sender to see if you have a good working gauge & what type it actually is. If you cant find one of those switches, get several loose resistors close to the values of: 10, 25, 30 & 73 ohms & connect them in place of the fuel gauge sender & look at what it reads.

Remember magnetic type is 0 ohms (short to ground) empty & 30 ohms full. The thermal type is 73 ohms empty, 25 ohms for half & 10 ohms for full. Also the thermal gauges take longer to stabilise, so read it after 5 minutes or so.

This is one advantage of the magnetic type, they are not voltage sensitive & work much more quickly. The thermal type are usually more accurate.

Dr Terry

Edited by user Saturday, 21 February 2009 3:29:37 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
vintageholden Offline
#8 Posted : Monday, 23 February 2009 1:30:06 PM(UTC)
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mine is 73-10
on my hq
Rhys Offline
#9 Posted : Friday, 27 February 2009 1:56:02 AM(UTC)
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Dr Terry,
I have an update. The original large fuel gauge I took out is definitely thermal. I have opened it up and the right hand coil looks like it has got very hot and lost its insulation, but it isnt open circuit. Before I took the gauge out, it was reading about half of what was actually in the tank.

I put 20L of petrol in yesterday, and the sender went from reading 70 ohms, to 61 ohms. Does this sound correct?

I have tried two fuel/oil gauges, but I think they are magnetic. One is dated 1977 so must have been a spare part. Dr Terry could you please confirm if the GTS dash fuel/oil gauges changed from magnetic to thermal in 73 as well or did they keep using the magnetics until the end of the HQ range? The thermal mechanism looks quite big and Id say it would hardly fit in the smaller gauge! I thought that the early GTS dashes had much bigger print on the fuel/oil and temp/batt gauges, and the later ones had smaller markings, is this right? The two I have tried have the smaller markings/text.

Hopefully Ill get to the bottom of this soon!
thanks
Rhys
Rhys Offline
#10 Posted : Friday, 13 March 2009 11:34:20 PM(UTC)
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Hi Guys,

Is there an easy way to identify a magnetic GTS fuel gauge over a thermal GTS fuel gauge? From memory, the magnetic ones have the adjustment on the back of the gauge, is this missing on the thermals?

I thought the year stamp would be an easy way to tell, but GM would have made the earlier type as spare parts years later and dated them accordingly.

thanks
Rhys
Tour Director Offline
#11 Posted : Saturday, 14 March 2009 5:12:02 PM(UTC)
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You could try this company in Osborne Park and ask them for some advice.ph: (08) 9240 6999 They are called Applied instruments.
Rhys Offline
#12 Posted : Tuesday, 17 March 2009 8:28:14 AM(UTC)
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Thanks for the details Tour Director. I see that AISAT have closed down their Osborne Park branch, maybe these guys have taken over from them?
peter_flane Offline
#13 Posted : Tuesday, 17 March 2009 9:25:44 AM(UTC)
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Is EH magnetic type? I tested and read from 0-26 ohms. It waves like a clown as the fuel moves side to side on the side streets.
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
Tour Director Offline
#14 Posted : Wednesday, 18 March 2009 12:02:02 AM(UTC)
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The EH sender units should read from 0-30ohms. The Rare Spares new ones were calibrated and checked to those original specifications.
30s-oldsman Offline
#15 Posted : Monday, 8 June 2009 9:18:23 PM(UTC)
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Hi Guys
Is there an easy way to identify early and late gauges. I notice that some have a pressed stell back on them whilst others are plastic. Also I have been told that there are different manufacturers for the two of them. One is a slow moving gauge or dampened to suit the tank without baffles, and one is a fast moving gauge that suits the tank with baffles. Any info would be appreciated
All the best
John
fuzzypumper Offline
#16 Posted : Tuesday, 14 July 2009 12:00:10 AM(UTC)
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If there where 2 manufacturers does that mean the early type magnetic are FLEXDRIVE and the later thermal are VDO?
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