Hey Guys

Is there any other companys out there that make these things other than CRS?

Cheers Mark

The CRS Stubs are now made in China yet the price has gone up! Go figure

Subtech are the guys your after and I beleive are made in austrailia
Phone: 0447445504 and email: [email protected]

One thing you need to be aware of with dropped stubs is the negative effect it has on steering goemetry and the increased load that is applied under brakes to the top ball joint, as a result of moving the axle centerline up towards the b/joint.The "arm" length of the stub axle provides torque reaction or mechanical advantage to the axle assembly, by shortening that length the load is magnified, overloading the ball joint and reducing the built in safety margin. There other reasons why the axle centerline is down low where it is,one of those is the balljoint inclination built into the assembly that provides the self centering action and straight line stability, is profoundly affected by the relocation of the axle. In a stock setup, when viewed from the side, when the stub axles are moved from straight ahead to full lock, they move through a downward arc of travel due to the inclination of the b/joints, when the axle c/line is moved up the stub, this arc is increased dramatically. On a car this means the axle is effectively trying to turn itself into the pavement, which obviously cant happen, so the end result is the front springs will compress on tight lock, increasing body roll alarmingly. Dont beleive it ?....try turning your wheels lock to lock while your car is stationary...youll see the front of the car dip down as the springs compress, doesnt take much imagination to figure how much this will affect the handling of the car as its pushed through a corner, not to mention how much harder it will be to park the car, or the extra strain applied to all the related parts in the steering system. Dropped stubs... not a good idea, the factory spends thousands of hours in development and testing to acheive a good balance between handling and safety and driveability, take advantage of their vastly superior knowledge and stick with stock parts. If you need to have a low car, set the crossmember up in such a way as to incorporate full suspension travel at the height you want without resorting to band-aid fixes like dropped stubs. We had a motto at the place I did my apprenticeship that applies here,"cure the cause, not the effect"

that last bit is a quote form an other forum, becasue it was easier that typeing it up my self

See The Yetis Chev build at
http://www.ozrodders.com...rd/viewtopic.php?t=17919

Yep, Yeti, thats on the money.
Another quirk about CRS logic.
Years ago when the drop stubs were first available, I believe there was only one spindle design available. This one product was sold to anyone with an early Holden, including ball joint HR front ends in any early Holden pre HR, HK-HG, HQ-WB & LC-LX Toranas. One solution to lowering of all Holdens.
I remember having the conversation with the original owner of said business. He said that this one product would suit all early Holdens. In the next breath, suggested that factory HQ stubs would not be suitable on HR ball joint front ends. Buy my product, it will solve all your woes.
Now we all know that HQ stubs work well on HR front ends, & actually give about 19mm lowering compared to factory HR stubs. Better brakes available to boot. As Yeti said in part, "the factory spends thousands of hours in development and testing to achieve a good balance between handling and safety and driveability".

Now let me get this right;
You cant interchange early stub axles as geometry is incorrect, but buy this lowered stub axle, & fit it to any early Holden, (Toranas included), for the perfect solution.
To this day, I cannot get my head around that logic.
I steer clear of all such products. (no pun intended)

Utility8

quote:

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Originally posted by The Yeti
increased load that is applied under brakes to the top ball joint, as a result of moving the axle centerline up towards the b/joint.The "arm" length of the stub axle provides torque reaction or mechanical advantage to the axle assembly, by shortening that length the load is magnified, overloading the ball joint and reducing the built in safety margin.

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The torque on the balljoint is a product of the force on the spindle multiplied by the distance between the spindle and the balljoint.

T = Fd

By moving the spindle closer to the upper balljoint the torque is reduced.

Your science is ass-backwards

This is very basic science.

quote:

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Originally posted by bosko

The torque on the balljoint is a product of the force on the spindle multiplied by the distance between the spindle and the balljoint.

T = Fd

By moving the spindle closer to the upper balljoint the torque is reduced.

Your science is ass-backwards

This is very basic science.

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I beg to differ !!

If T = F x d, if the d is reduced & if T remains unchanged, then F will increase by the same factor.

Example:- If braking torque in 200 Nm at 10 cm then the sideways force on the top ball joint is 2000 Newtons. If the d is reduced to 5 cm, the side force is 4000 N. Half the distance twice the force, same torque.

Having said that, the side force on the lower ball joint is reduced.

Dr Terry

Edited by user Sunday, 10 May 2009 9:35:39 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

now my brain hurts after reading that. which is the less of the 2 evils. i want to drop my van an inch in the front. whats better. using a spring or these drop spindles?

Proper lowered springs are usually available in 1" or 2". They will also be suited to be lower with the correct number of coils and wire strength and thickness. Much cheaper option.

Wooooohooooo, I have bought a set for the sled. Cant wait to fit em and see how it all goes.