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alchupanibre Offline
#1 Posted : Monday, 22 June 2009 6:42:47 AM(UTC)
alchupanibre

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Hey all.
I found a chassis crack or hole in the area under the guard behind the wheel. it looks like its rusted and then someones tried to jack it up and that part has exploded. Its about 5cm long radius. what should i do about this, cut and weld? will i be able to get a roadworthy in vic?

also now i want to pull the shell of the chassis does anyone have an idea for an outside setting on bricks?

cheers
peter_flane Offline
#2 Posted : Monday, 22 June 2009 7:45:41 AM(UTC)
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You will not be able to get a roadworthy with cracks in the chassis. The best way to repair it is remove the cracked section, and put a new section in.

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jim Offline
#3 Posted : Monday, 22 June 2009 7:50:20 AM(UTC)
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the shell of the car should be sat on WOOD blocks.

Jim in adelaide
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cloudy Offline
#4 Posted : Monday, 22 June 2009 4:11:23 PM(UTC)
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you can weld it and then weld a plate over the top use 5mm thick steel.
davequey74 Offline
#5 Posted : Tuesday, 23 June 2009 3:18:19 AM(UTC)
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if you are going to continue to drive the car before fixing it, then drill a small hole at the end of the crack, this will stop the crack from spreading

these cracks are quite common and can be repaired easy enough

sitting cars on bricks is not a good idea, the bricks could crack and the car could fall
alchupanibre Offline
#6 Posted : Tuesday, 30 June 2009 12:10:51 AM(UTC)
alchupanibre

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thanks for the tips guys.

i found another problem, the leaf spring mount on the right side it pretty stuffed. what should i do here?

Edited by user Tuesday, 30 June 2009 12:12:46 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

we wreck 81837s only Offline
#7 Posted : Tuesday, 30 June 2009 12:36:12 AM(UTC)
we wreck 81837s only

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common problem in that area is that they fill up with crap, then rust and crack, chop it out, make another bit, weld it on
davequey74 Offline
#8 Posted : Tuesday, 30 June 2009 6:54:14 AM(UTC)
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yes frank right, all you can do is cut off the rusted bits and fabricate a identical peice (without the rust) and weld it on

or

find a donor chassis with a good spring hanger and cut it off and weld it onto yours
this is a common place to rust
alchupanibre Offline
#9 Posted : Tuesday, 30 June 2009 7:11:42 AM(UTC)
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bummer that sounds like too much work. i suppose if i go through with the project i need another chassis. will a Q shell bolt on to the rest of the J/X/Z series?
HK1837 Offline
#10 Posted : Tuesday, 30 June 2009 7:29:50 AM(UTC)
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HQ-WB ute/van chassis are basically interchangeable. Just be careful of ADRs on later chassis. Mid HX onwards are the best chassis (RTS geometry and less prone to cracking). Just note WB have snout of rails cut off so only 2 of 3 bar bolts go on per side.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
alchupanibre Offline
#11 Posted : Tuesday, 30 June 2009 7:45:45 AM(UTC)
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thanks for the advice guys again. HK what is ADRs? (still a learner)
RevGreen Offline
#12 Posted : Tuesday, 30 June 2009 7:48:00 AM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by alchupanibre
thanks for the advice guys again. HK what is ADRs? (still a learner)

Australian Design Rules
Sorry a little more info, the numbers on the compliance plate are ADR numbers ie ADR5 is seatbelt anchorages

Edited by user Tuesday, 30 June 2009 7:50:34 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

HK1837 Offline
#13 Posted : Tuesday, 30 June 2009 7:49:54 AM(UTC)
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The one in particular that will shaft you is ADR27A. Plus nowadays its not easy getting a car registered with a chassis that doesnt match the ADR tag.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
alchupanibre Offline
#14 Posted : Tuesday, 30 June 2009 8:12:48 AM(UTC)
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ah thanks. so its better off getting a donor cut off. If i give you the ADRs on my plate will you be able to tell me what chassiss i would be able to bolt on to the shell?
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