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hi i have just finished putting a 5 speed manual into my vc wagon where the trimatic used to be, i am having problems as it doesnt wanna start, i have dash light and working lights but starter motor seems to be not working almost as if the car thought the auto was in gear, I'm guessing there is some wiring that needs to be bypassed or modified i.e the the reverse switch can anyone help me? what has to be done with the wires to bypass them where do they need to run to etc? I'm a little stuck
thanks in advance
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Hi hgkid1, The wires that used to go to the neutral safety switch on the auto shifter need to be joined together. The wire to the starter should be violet and fingers crossed the same colour to the ignition. If the wire to the ignition is not violet you can use a multimeter or test light on the plug that used to go on the shifter you should find a wire from the ignition that is only live when the key is turned to start.  "We are but a grain of sand on the beach of life" |
"We are but a grain of sand on the beach of life" |
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In the plug from the auto shifter switch, is 4 wires:
Pink & green that are the reverse wires
Grey + violet that are the neutral start wires.
Join the grey & violet and it will start normally.
Cheers,
Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
Cheers,
Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
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thanks very much fellas this made things so simple i had a look for the wires and 5 minutes later it was running
now my new problem is that the brakes are really spongy we have bled them and they feel really good when the cars off but when the car comes on and the power assist comes in the pedal goes to the floor before it works, is this a matter of re - bleeding or is something more wrong? or do they just feel like that?
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bleed and check for air leaks,worst case replace stuff,were they working before the gearbox swap?
Jim in adelaide |
Jim in Adelaide.. |
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With regards to bleeding commodores, if you have let the fluid reservior run dry whilst bleeding, youll need to bleed the master cylinder before doing each wheel again (in the order of Left RR, Right RR, Left FR, Right FR).
To bleed the master, simply fill the reservior, then undo the front brake pipe that comes out sideways towards the engine.
Let it drip for about a minute to 90 seconds (into a container), and then nip it back up.
Then progress onto bleeding again (spend extra time on the fronts, as thats where the trapped air from the m/cyl will be).
Dont touch the brake pedal when doing the master!
Another method I use for the master is uses an old bit of brake pipe. I hav bent it around so it sits back into the fluid reservior when its fitted up. I put this on the same fitting, tighten it, then gently pump the brake pedal until it no longer blows bubbles into the fluid, then removve it, fit the cars pipe back on, and bleed the brakes again.
Cheers,
Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
Cheers,
Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
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Did you remove the master cylinder?
If you did, sometimes the reaction pad that sits on the booster pushrod behind the master cylinder can fall off inside the booster. Thus causing spongy brakes. I had it happen to me once on a UC with WB/Commodore style master cylinder.
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords? |
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sweet thanks for the help, now how about the handbrake, i have adjusted the cable so its tight at the back of the handbrake but that does jack as far as stopping what am i missing? sorry to sound like a total novice but truth be told thats pretty much where Im at with this thing learning the hard way one stupid question at a time lol
someone said something about jacking the car up and putting it in reverse tightens everything up but that sounds like nothing more than a good way to kill a gearbox, or putting the car through a wall / fence to me
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Back off the heandbrake cable at the lever end (thats the cheats method!) and get the back up n stands.
Look on the back of the drum (even on the disc rears - they have a little drum inside the disc rotor) for the adjuster hole.
Using a small screwdriver, work the adjuster until the drum can no longer spin freely (right at the first indication of it rubbing), then back it off a click or 2.
Then do the other side as well.
Once you have them set, you can then tighten up the 2 nuts on the lever end, to the point where you cant pull it up more than about 7 clicks, and it will be spot-on.
Cheers,
Mick
_______________________________________________________________
Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
Cheers,
Mick
_______________________________________________________________
Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate. |
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