Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 14/06/2007(UTC) Posts: 582
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Basically, my warm 202 with 30/70 cam is tricky to get idling. The expensive and frankly unimpressive race shop sets it at 1000rpm, but surely this is high for a mild motor?(manual tranny). And wouldnt it be off the idle circuits on my (fully reconditioned and rebushed) twin strombergs already? Using an air/fuel meter and vacuum gauge to balance carbs i try to set it lower (after having to re-do the carbs when aforementioned shop stuffed up), as per the recommendation from most people/mechanics, but at a good mixture reading and 850-900rpm the idle is rougher and the car likes to stutter and almost stall when i slow down with the car in gear, until it's very warm, but still needs the ocaisonal tap of the throttle when coming to a stop for it to settle nicely.
Even lower and it won't idle unless very rich, and is very hesitant on throttle.... the idle reasonably is smooth though.
So, the race shop setup means it settles at idle very well and responds well to throttle jabs on downshift, but is this a setup to get around something? Should it idle right at much lower revs? The cam's not very big, 280 duration and lifts around .440 int .465 ex.
Right now i've got it at 900rpm, 12/1 air/fuel, 7 degrees base and it works quite well... but how far out of the ball park am i?
Thoughts? |
"Silly modern cars" |
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Rank: Member
Groups: Registered
Joined: 17/04/2005(UTC) Posts: 465
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Warmish cams will need to idle higher than stock. I had a 400 SBC with serious cam in it, to stop the "Stall on stop" issue it idled at about 1000 in gear (auto). Changed it to a torque cam (truck street) and i could set the idle to around 500.
__________________________________________ Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
__________________________________________ Keep the shiny side up, and the greasy side down. |
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