Notification

Icon
Error

Login


Take the time to read our Privacy Policy.

Nicho71TPI Offline
#1 Posted : Saturday, 27 February 2010 6:05:30 PM(UTC)
Nicho71TPI

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 58

Gday everyone.
Its time to delve into the brains trust of the forum once again.
Brief background and update of what I am up to.
I have A VK Commodore 6 cyl 4 speed manual wagon. I am in the process of fitting the factory EFI system.
Installed the EFI engine loom.
Installed a VL wagon EFI tank.
Sliced/added the loom to run the internal pump, external pump and fuel guage sender.
Modified aftermarket extractors to give extra clearance betwen EFI manifold and extractors.
Purchased brand new external fuel pump.
Have to fit return line to tank(got one from a wreck),remove and block of mechanical fuel pump, re route fuel line to EFI manifold, block off the back of EFI manifold(heat pipe to/from extractors)
Here are my questions about my set up.

1. I want to flush/clean out the fuel system(VL tank, inline filter) what product/s and process is recommended for this?
I bought the tank and filter out of wrecks (VL wagon tank, VK EFI sedan) I was thinking of metho for dispersing the water and shake the bejesus out of the tank. And metho into the inline filter and blow through with a comprssor.

2. The gasket between the fuel tank and the internal fuel pump/fuel guage sender does it require a "gasket goo" for proper sealing? I will be purchasing a new gasket.

3. Can I do a test run to check the wiring to the fuel pumps (Turn the key to on and hear the pumps prime up) without fuel in the system, the EFI manifold not plumbed and wired but with the EFI computer installed?

4. I want to clean the inside of the EFI manifold. What cleaning process and cleaning product is recommended? I was thinking of brake part cleaner and a high pressure cleaner.

5. Is there any hidden/difficult points in this conversion that I should be looking out for?
5a. Or is it a plug and play set up?

Thanks in advance to everybody that replies to my post.

Nicho


Iam a fuel injected suicide machine!

Edited by user Saturday, 27 February 2010 6:22:23 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Iam a fuel injected suicide machine!
HK1837 Offline
#2 Posted : Saturday, 27 February 2010 7:47:38 PM(UTC)
HK1837

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Moderator, Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 14,891

Thanks: 1 times
Was thanked: 554 time(s) in 529 post(s)
Did you run the EFI head?

Thee are places that can clean the fuel tank out for you. I think they use a mild acid?

_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
johnperth Offline
#3 Posted : Saturday, 27 February 2010 9:21:07 PM(UTC)
johnperth

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,991

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
no need to change the head they are both the same except the carby head has ports for the air pump. just remove the plumbing and plug the ports.
pays to use new fuel filter.
DO NOT run fuel pump without fuel for more than a few seconds they have been known to explode as the fuel is essential to keeping it cool.
just run long enough to check it runs.
the computer does not run the fuel pump they are independent. there is a relay thing that is the important connection I think it uses the purple wire.
it does pay to clean the throttle body/manifold the goo can cause operational problems, there is a spray stuff I think its called throttlebody cleaner, it works really well, just spray it in wait few minutes and wipe off.
you dont say you have fitted the regulators there are 2 one at rear near the tank fitted to the frame that holds the fuel pump (the fuel pump is not an internal pump, the vk and vl are the same except the vl one has a different shaped rubber fuel line) and one in the engine bay on the drivers side of the engine a frame thing that bolts to the block and also supports the accelorator cable, also the rocker cover has to be changed to support this. the regulators control the flow of fuel to the engine.
I think to be legal you will have to retain the exhaust heat pipe to the manifold.
Mr Void Offline
#4 Posted : Saturday, 27 February 2010 9:36:35 PM(UTC)
Mr Void

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2005(UTC)
Posts: 424

Ive always used carby cleaner to clean intake parts and metho for the fueled parts.

I put an aftermarket sender in my fuel tank in the HJ - used the gasket that came with it and only 6months later it is weeping. No idea what the best sealant is to use but may be a good idea.?

You can test the fuel pump wiring by;
- applying 12V to pins 15(ign switch) and 30(battery) while
- 31 is earthed(normally earth).
- 87b is the fuel pump power so you can either test the output voltage or listen to the fuel pump BUT remember this is only a prime so it will only be on for a second or so. It will turn of quickly as the control relay will not continue to send voltage to the fuel pump unless the motor is turning and it is getting a 150+rpm pulse from the coil.
Essentially, this is a test for the control relay... but will allow you to test the path from the ign switch to fuel pump if you wire up those components associated with the relative pins above.

If you already have the GMH VK Service Manual Supplement then this info is from 6C-22 and 23. IF you dont already have it go and buy it NOW!!!! ...or if you dont get what Im talking about up there and you would like me to scan those pages, shoot me an email and Ill reply it back to you. There are just a couple diagrams on the pages but it shows what I was trying to explain.

This conversion shuold be plug and play - the troubles I have doing mine were with the 2nd hand parts used... dang thing wouldnt kick over for me and after days of checking wiring (as I spliced the HJ harness into the VKefi harness) it ended up being a dead dizzy module : (

So presuming your afm and all other sensors are working fine, it should be pretty simple.

HTH
void
___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
Nicho71TPI Offline
#5 Posted : Sunday, 28 February 2010 2:47:53 AM(UTC)
Nicho71TPI

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 58

HK1837 - Thanks for the reply. I was hoping i could buy or create something and do it myself but Ill have a look for a business that offers this service.

johnperth - yep the first thing i did was remove the air pump and plug up the bungs. It was the first one Ive ever seen still on a car!

I thought the cost of a inline EFI ceramic filter were quite expensive $300+. But will investigate further on that.

I have just been lead to beleive that there was always 2 pumps an internal one and external one..

I suppose I can use a test light on the plugs to the pump. That would be a better option, but yer I just wanted to hear it running for that extra piece of mind.

The relay you are talking about I assume it is located in the engine bay fixed to the inner guard?(I am guessing on its location) It is one thing that I did not think/know of!

I got the inline filter, in line filter mounting bracket, external pump(used but i have a new one), external pump mounting bracket and regulator(about an inch round which the fuel flows through)and the throttle cable bracket and the other regulator off the VK EFI sedan wreck. I got the red tappet cover that has the little added bracket with the thread with the EFI manifolds(I got 2)

I definately want to give everything a clean before a final fit
Bloody heat exhaust pipe! I got two words for it!

Mr Void - Thanks for the reply. I used the factory VL EFI tank so thats all good. Its just habit if theres a gasket there some goo as well. Most times.

I dont have a GMH-VK supplement. Ill email you for those pages.

Sensors? I know about the Air Flow Mass sensor. But what other ones are there and where are they located please? I know of two screw in plugs into the head on the manifold side. One I beleive is and temp sender(a blue electrical plug held in by a wire clip). And the other has a plastic dual tee piece in the top of it with the "hot air" lines coming out of it. The plug to the AFM sensor is pretty straight forward. A plug to the gearbox. A push on clip for the oil temp/pressure. What am I missing?

I noticed that in the carby motor that the temp sender(on top of the thermostat housing) is replaced with a plastic tee piece with vacuum lines in the EFI motor. Do I ned to do this as well?

Thanks everyone.

Nicho

Iam a fuel injected suicide machine!

Edited by user Sunday, 28 February 2010 2:55:51 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Iam a fuel injected suicide machine!
Mr Void Offline
#6 Posted : Sunday, 28 February 2010 6:52:35 AM(UTC)
Mr Void

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2005(UTC)
Posts: 424

Sorry Nicho - I havent emailed yet. having modem probs... its on now so Ill reply quickly here and see if itll stay on long enough to send the email too : (

Re the thermostat housing - from memory the efi had the temp sensor in the rear drivers side of the head and yes there was a tee piece set up on the thermostat to help with the aux. air triggereing and vac advance (although may be wrong there).
The only other sensor that I was talking about was air temp (part of the afm but can still cause probs if not working) and oil pressure but this wont affect the ecu.

The control relay is a tall black relay with about 7pins (i think). The pages Ill send have a pic.
I might scan a pic of the fuel setup too just for the sake of it.

cheers
void

___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
johnperth Offline
#7 Posted : Monday, 1 March 2010 5:34:11 AM(UTC)
johnperth

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,991

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
the fuel pump relay has, from memory, 9 terminals, it is unique to the VK, no other will fit.
the relay is in the main fuse box under the bonnet near the windscreen corner where all the other relays are, I cant remember the exact location, I think towards the engine side and the front corner of the box about where you say..
one problem I had was there was a mysterious rough running problem that came and went, after much frustration I discovered the injector wiring loom that runs along the fuel rail the injectors are wired separately but the connections are paired so are soldered in pairs to the loom, one of the soldering point was dry soldered so i touch a soldering iron to all 3 and it came good, you have to unwind the insulation to get to them.
I was under the impression the filters were about $40, it is only a tin cylinder about 100mm x 50mm. I would definitely remember paying $300 for one, but that was some years ago.
as a suggestion I would recommend getting one of those el cheapo plastic filters from big w or auto pro for about $4.00 and fitting it just where the fuel supply line exits the tank or somewhere ahead of the efi filter, these are plastic and cannot be fitted after the tin filter because the line is under high pressure, but fitting one ahead of the expensive filter stops some of the crap clogging it, especially if you get a bit of water in the fuel that will kill a filter real quick if the filter is only 4 bucks not a real worry but really pisses you off if you have just replaced the expensive filter 40k ago, like I did.
void is right about the sensor on the water pump it is moved to the rear of the block and the tree on the thermo housing runs some of the vacuum fittings.
fuel tank sender gaskets dont usually have to be glued on I have never had one leak when fitted dry, as long as it is good nick. i would not be keen to go glueing one in, when you have to remove it can be a pain and then you have to clean the old gunk off and risk it getting into the tank.
when you run power through the relay to the pump it will cut off after about 30 seconds unless the engine is running it has a wire to pick up power from the dizzy.
Mr Void Offline
#8 Posted : Wednesday, 10 March 2010 7:29:10 AM(UTC)
Mr Void

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2005(UTC)
Posts: 424

Just emailed those pics now Nicho.

johnperth - does the relay really run for 30secs? Wow, I thought it was much less!?

Also, just looking at the manual - the filter you are talking about may be the rear fuel damper?..if you getting the whole lot confused.... I presume not but you never know.

Anyway, I hope the info helps.

___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
johnperth Offline
#9 Posted : Wednesday, 10 March 2010 8:59:46 AM(UTC)
johnperth

Rank: Veteran

Reputation:

Groups: Registered, Veteran
Joined: 1/03/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,991

Was thanked: 2 time(s) in 2 post(s)
void it probably less I cant remember but the manual should tell you.
Mr Void Offline
#10 Posted : Thursday, 11 March 2010 7:16:08 AM(UTC)
Mr Void

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2005(UTC)
Posts: 424

Sorry john - wasnt trying to nit-pick, just thought you were correcting the short time I mentioned in my first post... I never checled the manual for the time.
I was more surprised than pointing out you may be wrong.

___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
Nicho71TPI Offline
#11 Posted : Thursday, 11 March 2010 8:25:47 PM(UTC)
Nicho71TPI

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 58

Gday everyone.
Just to bring everyone up to speed.
The latest items I have purchased fuel sender gasket, fuel pump blank and gasket(these were not sold together?), in line EFI fuel filter(it was cheap, $13.99!), clutch kit, gearbox oil, tappet cover gasket.
Have spliced in the fuel pump and fuel guage sender unit wires and fitted the EFI engine loom. Picking up machined flywheel today hopefully.
Have not cleaned tank or inlet manifold or throttle body yet.

Mr Void - Hey thanks for emails they have come in really handy! I now realise that I need the relay that is mentioned in the email you sent me.

Regarding the relay.Is it open heart surgery to have a auto electrician fit the relay in the under bonnet fuse box? I would prefer to put it here for that factory/neat look.

Where do I purchase the correct relay (i assume that the part number is on the relay in the pic)and any ideas of a cost for the relay? I have limited EBay access.

Regarding the tee piece on the thermo housing.
Do I need it to make the car run?
Do I have to get a different(EFI specific)thermo housing?
OR does the tee piece fit into the carby thermo housing. In the carby model it has (in my SL wagon)an electrical plug that i beleive is the temp guage sender

Regarding the wire to the dizzy. Is this wire part of the EFI engine loom? Pink or brown in colour? If so I have identified all wires/plugs in the loom and have attached/plugged them accordingly.

Thanks once again to everyone that has replied to my post.

Nicho

Iam a fuel injected suicide machine!

Edited by user Thursday, 11 March 2010 8:27:16 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Iam a fuel injected suicide machine!
Mr Void Offline
#12 Posted : Thursday, 11 March 2010 10:37:42 PM(UTC)
Mr Void

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 16/06/2005(UTC)
Posts: 424

I have the temp sender in my thermo housing (but I am not using an au air valve). Not sure if it will make any difference or not when it comes to rego time... I havent got to that yet.

The relay wiring isnt al that hard.

Ill post some more info later - can email the wiring layouts if you want too..

___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -
Nicho71TPI Offline
#13 Posted : Friday, 12 March 2010 2:10:49 AM(UTC)
Nicho71TPI

Rank: Member

Reputation:

Groups: Registered
Joined: 6/08/2009(UTC)
Posts: 58

quote:
Originally posted by Mr Void
I have the temp sender in my thermo housing (but I am not using an au air valve). Not sure if it will make any difference or not when it comes to rego time... I havent got to that yet.

The relay wiring isnt al that hard.

Ill post some more info later - can email the wiring layouts if you want too..

___________________
- HJ turbotonner looks and goes like a sneezing rhino on heat! -


Hey Mr Void

What is an auxillary air valve? What does it do?
I got no problems with rego as my car is still registered.

Ill speak to the sparky about the relay situation.
I will surely appreciate if you can email me the wiring layouts whenever you are able to.

Thanks
Nicho.


Iam a fuel injected suicide machine!
Iam a fuel injected suicide machine!
Users browsing this topic
Guest (2)
Forum Jump  
You cannot post new topics in this forum.
You cannot reply to topics in this forum.
You cannot delete your posts in this forum.
You cannot edit your posts in this forum.
You cannot create polls in this forum.
You cannot vote in polls in this forum.

Powered by YAF | YAF © 2003-2025, Yet Another Forum.NET
This page was generated in 0.081 seconds.