Sorry ,but I have only one thing to say,get a spraygun and learn,its easy and if you use cans itll cost you about $1,000,000,000 to paint your car and still look sh!t.dont worry if you get stuck WE will all guide you thru with what we know...trust me ,its EASY.

CHECK OUT MEMBERS RIDE SECTION....NOT ONE SPRAY CAN,THERE IS A REASON FOR THAT!

P>S>>>the order you have is about right.dont bother with primer
just get "one step primer/putty" in the same can.

Jim in Adelaide...Hindsight is bad vision!

Edited by user Monday, 5 April 2010 8:28:21 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

Hey Jeremy, been thinking a little since you left today... maybe you should practice with some white next weekend?

Seriously though, I need to paint my block & sump next weekend, so maybe I should wait until youre passing through?

Cheers,

Mick
_______________________________________________________________

Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.

hey jeremy,
i have done this trade since i was 13.if you want the job to be perfect you cant teach experience and i would agree with ht prem and get it done by a pro.but if you want to have a crack at it yourself for personal satisfaction then you have the process about right as jim has said.only help i can give is to toss the rust converter out and get rid of the rust problem physically (sanding,grinding,blasting etc) as converters usually only band aid the corrosion prob.cant get better prep than clean metal.next never touch the bare metal with your bare hands as this will leave moisture and greases behind and will cause problems later such as surface rust ,delamination etc.next is use a good quality etch primer,use as directed as its not a mater of more is better,next slight sand area that needs filling.fill as needed and sand.finish of with 120 grit sand paper so you dont get any sink back (scratches)comeing through your topcoat later and then apply another light coat of etch primer to cover any bare metal.then use your primer filler.allow correct drying times between products so no problems arise, sand primer filler with 400 grit wet and dry and then use a wax and grease remover(removes any silicone etc) to make sure area is ready for topcoat.topcoat as directed.clears are not needed unless directed.the gloss factor will depend on your top coat product.mat,sat,gloss.easy as if you follow each step.miss one step or rush the drying time or process is the most common mistake that leads to a poor finish.all this can be done with a can but you cant beat the gun,its all about experence the more you do the better you get and in the end the product and gun method is a lot cheaper then the can .hope this helps,mono

Gents

Some great advice and offers amongst these replies and thanks for that.

I know theres always great support and advice here for novices like me and thats why I pester you all so much - please keep it up. (look at that advice for the steering column covers Jim - perfect!!)

Back to this task though.

Id really like to do this myself, partly because Im on a budget and would prefer not to spend the cash on a professional when it might get my seats recovered, but mainly because I want to open the bonnet and think I did that!!. Its why I got into building to be honest - drive by an old project and point it out to the kids...

Having said that, as mono says Im not going to get the experience overnight and I want to get this thing back together before I retire!! Also, my engine bay is in the metalic body colour and I want to leave it that way. I assume you should start out practicing on flat panels and with solid colours if possible.

So for now Im going to finish this off with the cans - I already have them anyway :)

So can I ask a couple more questions:-

1. The paint in the majority of the engine bay is very sound and in good condition. I would intend only to scuff these areas up with 120 grit, wash with prepsol and then topcoat - is that a plan??

2. If I mechanically remove all the rust (as I have with the wire brush in this instance) would treating with rust converter hurt adhesion of the etch primer?? Would it be a good belt and braces measure, or is it just not necessary?

3. So no clear coat?? Its acrylic in these cans. I always assumed you needed clear. Maybe too many years of reading Street Machine as a schoolboy - .... and we finished it off with 80 coats of clear to blah blah.....

4. Where Ive patched an area and its in primer with the surrounding area in original paint, should I paint the primed area with a coat of topcoat or 2 and then lightly resand so the final top coat to the whole panels going over a consistant base?? (Thats what we do patching gyprock... :) )

Mono - more is not better - great tip. I think I made that mistake on the column covers. Is this the same for all the various layers??

Cheers and thanks again

Jeremy

The G will roll again....

Edited by user Tuesday, 6 April 2010 5:54:30 PM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

hey lads,
yea we are starting to get the idea,
1.120grit is to course for any top coat.only use less than 320grit if a primer filler is to be used.then as said wax and grease remover(prepsol)the whole area to be painted.be sure to wipe on the prepsol and wipe it off while still wet or it removes NO contemination.then apply your top coat as described and vary your spray technique with each coat(cross hatch)so that you dont get striped effect with metallics.metallics need a clear coat (for gloss ,buffing) so you will have to apply as directed.
because its an engine bay and acrylic paint needs to be fine sanded(1200 grit)and buffed for gloss factor you could use retarder thinners in your clear coats as it dryes slower (ie retarder)thus giveing a better gloss of the gun finish with out fine sanding and buffing.BE CAREFULL RETARDER THINNERS DRYES SLOWER THAN STANDARD THINNERS SO IT CAN BITE INTO OLD REPAIRS AND CREATE SINK BACK(scratches).
2.if you have completley removed the rust problem mechanically and the metal is spotless then dont use a rust converter just etch prime it,then your primer/filler.
3.all acrylic metalics need clear coat as i just covered.again as directed as to many coats cause problems such as bridgeing(cracking in creases )and a number of other dramas.
4.your method described for patching gyprock is the same.as you will see ,the over spray you will get as you color your repaired area will be very course (more so with spray can application)and a light wet rub with 1200grit would remove the overspray build up.then cross hatch the next couple of metalic coats before adding your clear.IF YOUR FINAL METALIC COAT DOES NOT LOOK AS GOOD AS YOU WANT IT TO (blotchy,stripey,etc)DO NOT CLEAR.re wet rub with 1200grit and recoat as described.only clear when you are happy with the look of your top coat.

HAINZY,yea mate sorry same steps needed with your fiberglass repairs.no real short cuts they tend to come back to bite you.

jeremy,
hope this helps,sorry i cant explain the steps any shorter,but i have tried to explain HOW and WHY then it might make more sense to any readers,mono

Thanks Jim - Thanks mono

Watch this space - the engine bays gonna be spot on!!!

Then when I do my course and crack out the fun the box trailer needs to watch out!!!!

Cheers again

Jeremy

The G will roll again....