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I have just finished fitting a new EL twin thermo fan unit to the engine side of my radiator replacing the engine fan and two 12" electric fans that sat on the front of the radiator. It was a simple fit band I used the same ecectric setup that was running my smaller fans but now each time the fans cycle on it blows the 2x15amp fuses. I run a seperate power feed and relay(Bosch 30amp) per fan, each having a 15amp fuse on the battery power side. There are no markings on the fan motors indicating what wattage they are....does anyone know what there current draw is or their wattage? I have double checked the relay wiring....#30 (Battery) #87 (power to fan) #86 (Power from switch) #85 (earth to chassis). The fans are each earthed to the chassis, I run a Thermo fan switch off a Mitsy Magna which is (normally open), on @85deg, of @80deg as my on/off switch. Switching power is from the ignition.
Any Ideas where to look next?
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I think the current draw can be upwards of 20A each on those things at startup.
Instead of a fuse, try using a thermal circuit breaker, as they absorb startup spikes unlike fuses.
If you are currently using blade fuses (as fitted to VK-VS commodores) |
Cheers,
Mick
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Thanks for that as I was thinking I might have wasted a lot of money on something that wouldn't work.
With the fuses, I am using a Narava sealed 4x fuse (standard size Jap blade) fuse holder. Will those circuit breakers you mentioned fit??
Thanks agai
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Ooops, forgot to mention that it suits a 38mm ID radiator hose, which I think is pretty much standard.
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Excellent, that will make temp sensing a lot easier than previous hit & miss methods I have tried, or expensive adjustable name brand thermostats that last 18 months tops...
The circuit breakers I mentioned plug into a standard Jap blade type fuse hold |
Cheers,
Mick
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I went off to Jaycar & spent $4.45 (from memory) on a normally open thermo switch which closes at 75°c & re opens at 55°c which is a little cold for a top hose so I tie wired it to my bottom hose. Basically this means that my fans only come on when the co Edited by user Tuesday, 20 December 2005 9:40:17 PM(UTC)
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Mick's right... I measured a thermo fan starting up with an ammeter. It was spiking to 22amps. So I run mine with a 30amp blade fuse fine, although I like the idea of those circuit breakers that deal with spikes.
Cheers,
Jason.
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Thanks heaps guy's, I took my EL fans to my Auto elec and he put his amp gauge accross them and each fan drew 34amps on start and run at 10amps each. I use a jap fuse holder and he sold me some 30amp circuit breakers to suit....runs like a charm, too bad
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It doesnt really matter what the current rating of the fans is . If their start-up current is say 22 and their run current is 15 it doesnt really matter . The fuse is only there to protect the wiring . So if you are going to use a 30 amp fuse just make su |
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Excellent info dudes. On the VS series III ute 5lt, there is a thermo which cools the air con condensor. Are you guys saying I can ditch this once the twin thermos are running or should I keep it. I have finnally shaped the thermos and will fit them on
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Yes you can ditch the condenser fan but you have to wire the thermos to cut in when the A/C compressor is running just as the condenser fan does now. |
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What does everyone think the best fans to run are? As in Most CFM? Is it best to match fans to the radiator ie: same size top to bottom, does it matter?
How much do some am I looking at for these fans? new/secondhand?
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Can anyone tell me the dimensions of the EL Thermo fan shroud?
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