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What ball joints do use when you have xf front dsic brake stubs.
Do you use xp ball joints or xf ball joints.
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I seem to remember the go was to use XP ball joints with taper adapters from CRS etc with the later stub axles.
Vandals and graffiti "artists" do everyone a favour and target parking meters and fixed speed cameras only. |
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Ball joints are the same taper on XP & XF, just use the XP ones and all should be good. It's the tie rod ends that need the adapter from CRS or one of the many specialist Early Ford wreckers.
I got mine from a friend who has access to a lathe and taper drill bits :D
Quote - If at first you don't succeed, fvck it, go home!!! |
Quote - If at first you don't succeed, fvck it, go home!!! |
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Mc Donold brothers have the tierod tapers in stock I think there like $50 or somthing theres also a guy on the central coast ealry bird or somthing he has them as well Macquarie Towns Hot Rod Clubs new website http://www.hotrodclub.infoSee The Yeti's Chev build at http://www.ozrodders.com...rd/viewtopic.php?t=17919 |
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Hi Jay, stock XP ball joints and tie rod ends, you only need to put a spacer in with the tie rod ends. I have them in stock but you probably have them by now. You can fit any stub axles/discs up to XF to the XK-XP, they just use a differen't sleeve
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Thanks for your advice,it's gonna be a slow build.But it will be worth the wait.
This is what i have so far.
289W already done up (380-400HP)
Xf Front stubs with new disc brakes.
Things I need.
C4 Auto
8 3/4 diff with disc brake set-up.
Watch out Rice Burners.
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On this.
who has doen this conversion?
I've decided to keep the XP and I think this would be a good upgrade to do but I hear from 3rd partys that bump stops an issue, who actualy has this conversion and whats it drive like?
Also what is the best and easyest to obtain mastercylinder to run? |
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I have decided to ditch the xf stubs and go with the RRS coil over stub setup to avoid this problem of bump steer.
I have done a lot of reseach and looks to be the best setup for performance.
If anyone wants my xf stubs, they have sandblasted any have had five coats of black rust paint on them, all mount points measure to spec.
You can have them for $200, as i have spend at least 15hrs on them already.
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when people talk about bump steer, do you actually know what it means, or do you just think it is bad and stay well clear ?
People who sell these ' wonder over expensive' kits try to make you belive this. Unless you lower your car by over 2.5", lowering with a normal XF disc conversion and you are not going to race the car there is nothing to worry about.
If people still think it is an issue, there is a siple solution of re-drilling your original upper suspension mount holes which eliminates any dramas and leaves you with the correct geometry.
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Bump steer is the toe-in or toe-out of the front wheels as the suspension goes from normal ride height through suspension travel, suspension moving up and down. This is what I have known bump steer to be, if I am wrong, let me know. I am trying to minimize the amount of holes I have drill.
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quote:
Originally posted by www.earlyfalcons.com
when people talk about bump steer, do you actually know what it means, or do you just think it is bad and stay well clear ?
People who sell these ' wonder over expensive' kits try to make you belive this. Unless you lower your car by over 2.5", lowering with a normal XF disc conversion and you are not going to race the car there is nothing to worry about.
If people still think it is an issue, there is a siple solution of re-drilling your original upper suspension mount holes which eliminates any dramas and leaves you with the correct geometry.
This is what I wanted to hear, with the redrill does any one have the correct measurments I gather this is a simular prrsedure to the old shelby drop? |
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