My HQ's subframe is tweaked after a small accident a year ago. Seems to be just the tips but i want to be sure. As it's half way through a total bare-metal rebuild, i want it straight before i try line up my panels/gaps.

Most "hands on types" used to repair their Kingswood with a sledge hammer or chains on a lamp post, but i'm after accuracy.

Smash shops are uninterested in having something like this on thier jigs.

Anyone had similar work done?

"Silly modern cars"

take some measurements from different points and compare them to another chassis, should be some bare front chassis at the wreckers from picked over HQ`s..

I have an original databook here somewhere with pictures showing all the measurements (diagonals etc). It is a propoer book used by panel beaters for the exact reason you want. I know it has this era utes and vans in it (if it doesn't have sedans) and these will have the measurements you want. If you need it i'll try scanning the relevant page(s), only issue will be it's an A3 size book.

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?

Hi .. There was a place in NORTH MELBOURNE. called Carrera Motors..
(03) 9329 5999... they did front end work a long time a go...
this may or may not be the same place.. may still have jigs..
The best way would be bolt to floor or frame and pull with a porter power and some heat...Will take some time to do right..and check for cracks tooo..

Tony

Hi to add abit more,
many chassis will have problems anyway so unless yours is very bad save your money and just straighten yours,
As has been indicated, many crack just behind the rear of the lower control arm mounting point and they all should be checked closely.
They also crack at the top arm mounting either side of the shockie mount.

Of course if you are swapping chassis be aware that the licencing athorities in some states might look at this a bit!

HQ, HJ and WB have bolt on brake line brackets.
HQ HJ and most HX have a lesser caster setting and have a the top suspension arm mounting more concentric.

late HX, HZ & WB on mountings were made with more caster and more offset, perhaps the Dr can say more here?

Many chassis will have sagged in the middle, so when you get those measurements check this of course.

Mike




Purpul Police

Glad to help,
our chassis ony showed the cracks after sandblasting.

Mike

Purpul Police

The RTS style rails came out in mid-76, sorry I don't have chassis number cut-off.

The easiest method of telling whether you have RTS rails or not is where the top shocky mount is located. If the top shocky mount is midway between the 2 upper inner bushes it is an RTS unit. If the top shocky mount is more towards the rear of the car it is a non-RTS unit.

Dr Terry


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When calculating a car restoration budget, be as accurate as you can & then double the final figure. It will be closer to the truth.

Carrera motors is still in north melbourne , 68 leveson st north melbourne 9329 9260.these guys do a large volume of work for all insurance companys chassis, 4x4 ,trucks , all general mechanical work & suspension . worth a try , speak to matt or chris . with most chassis or subframe rails ect to repair cold is the first option , heat only if cold pulling does not remedy . when heated the mild steel becomes hardened in the heat effected area ans if repeated it will give way to cracking in the future as the harder the steel becomes the more brittle it also becomes..the hq rails usually roll the rail horn in on itself , you need to have the chassis level first off, check the length each side, then n work the diagnals , all while maintaining the level ,check the rear mounting holes against the body bolt holes ( width ), and check the front width centres from your rad support panel . hope this helps .