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Holdenon Offline
#1 Posted : Wednesday, 2 February 2011 7:15:13 PM(UTC)
Holdenon

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I'm proably preeching to the converted here - I have a few instances of poor quality replacement parts in th elast few year for the HQ.

The latest was a few years ago I an original recored triple row radiator in on the 253. It was past it days as had been last done in 1987. I took it to the radiator guru, the advise was a new one is cheaper now than recoring and they are just the same. Well they looked the same. I pulled the ute out of storgae on the week end (2 1/2 yr) it got hot once, however we guessed that was because when the water pump was replaced it was run long enough to open the termostat and fill the block. Made it the 400k's in high 30's OK. On Monday on the way back from work sho overheated again. This time the radiator was full of scale and muck, form the long term storage. No problem I though - take the radiator out and get it cleaned - it was only about 5 yrs old.

No cigar - the core was shot to bits, there is no chance of recoring as the new replacement radiators have thinner tanks and just the act of sweating off the tanks will crack them. Apparantly they took production off shore to China, with the original stamps and dies etc, however put in much lower quality material - these thing are basically dispoable now.

Solution either find and old original radiator and clean/recore or get a new alloy one. While alloy looks cool and works well on all accoutn, i wanted a more roginal look. Luckily through a mate of my mechanic, looks like we have a triple core original on its way, hopefully it doesn't need to much work.

Thats just one incidence - no need to talk about the front discs I bought from ebay, which my mechanic had to replace and throw away after about a month of use - be careful,

cheers,

Scott
HK1837 Offline
#2 Posted : Wednesday, 2 February 2011 10:32:26 PM(UTC)
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I just took the 3 core out of my HJ Premier to a radiator shop to get cleaned. He is only charging me $120 to take the tank off, clean it and paint it gloss again for me. This is a 1980's Natra replacement radiator (Natra made them for GMH). When I asked him about a new one, he told me this one would still be going when the Chinese one was dust...I also bought one of those top hose filters for it ($68) to catch all the gunk when I put it back in. Also was advised not to run any Glycol, just to use corrosion inhibitor (2 x Castrol bottles).

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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
MuckUte Offline
#3 Posted : Thursday, 3 February 2011 6:41:18 AM(UTC)
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I thought that the glycol was the corosion inhibitor
peter_flane Offline
#4 Posted : Thursday, 3 February 2011 9:05:04 AM(UTC)
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The antifreeze/ antiboil ethylene glycol coolant you buy has corrosion inhibitors in it.

Corrosion inhibitor itself can be bought also

If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
If it is old or rare - Cut it! http://www.ehlimo.com.au/
Jul71-Oct74 Offline
#5 Posted : Thursday, 3 February 2011 2:07:20 PM(UTC)
Jul71-Oct74

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Besides radiators, the heater cores you see advertised all over e-bay are mostly rubbish as well. I bought one from a rad store and the first thing I noticed was that it was a lot lighter and flimsier than the original GM-H one. Found an original that had been dry stored for years - Job done. I'm also not sure about the last set of rear wheel cylinders I bought from a reputable source. Made in India. Would of prefered original GM-H items for obvious rerasons.
commodorenut Offline
#6 Posted : Thursday, 3 February 2011 6:23:31 PM(UTC)
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Don't get me started on CV joints for commodore tailshafts......

OE one lasts 270,000km while the replacement made it to just 60km. The supplier's excuse "You must have way too much horsepower" (I certainly wouldn't be complaining if I did, but 240hp at the rears is not an excessive amount by any standard). When I quizzed him that torque would be the issue not horsepower, he went into the "I sell heaps of these and the never come back" defence.

Cheers,

Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
Cheers,

Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
greenhj Offline
#7 Posted : Thursday, 3 February 2011 9:15:09 PM(UTC)
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the best anti corrosion goo i have ever used is the castrol branded stuff in the little can (now a plastic bottle i think??)

water pumps, t-stats etc come out like brand new each of the too many times ive stripped my engine, and the car sits a while between uses.

Radiator looks good too, and the notorious corrosion that forms on the intake manifold where it blocks the water passage in the back of the head is almost non existent.

The top radiator hose filters are ugly, but damn they catch some stuff that would end up clogging your freshly cored radiator in 5 minutes.



11.38@117mph
will go quicker

11.34@121mph
went quicker and faster, just not quick enough.

now being rebuilt with less cam, much less comp, and a turbo.
Dr Terry Offline
#8 Posted : Thursday, 3 February 2011 10:23:38 PM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by Jul71-Oct74
I'm also not sure about the last set of rear wheel cylinders I bought from a reputable source. Made in India. Would of prefered original GM-H items for obvious rerasons.


Don't get me started on the quality of Indian made brake hydraulics !!

I always recommend getting the original (GM-H or PBR) stuff re-sleeved in stainless steel. It costs about the same as the Indian cr@p (or a little more in some cases) but it will outlast your car & looks like it belongs there.

Dr Terry

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When calculating a car restoration budget, be as accurate as you can & then double the final figure. It will be closer to the truth.
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
wbute Offline
#9 Posted : Thursday, 3 February 2011 10:49:54 PM(UTC)
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quote:
Originally posted by MuckUte
I thought that the glycol was the corosion inhibitor

Glycol is the anti freeze/anti boil part of coolant. It is also used in one other common place... those pretty fonts with the beer taps on the bar at pubs now. Thats what is run through them to keep them cold.
blameyone Offline
#10 Posted : Friday, 4 February 2011 1:28:31 AM(UTC)
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wbute , There is more than one type of glycol used as anti freeze- anti boil. I worked with Solahart hot water, installed 100s of them and they used glycol as antifreeze also, but was so called food grade as would be the same for the beer taps. The only real difference between brake fluid type and so called food grade glycol is which is the most toxic. It used to be used in ice cream as well and shampoo.....Jack
HK1837 Offline
#11 Posted : Friday, 4 February 2011 3:49:18 AM(UTC)
HK1837

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quote:
Originally posted by greenhj
the best anti corrosion goo i have ever used is the castrol branded stuff in the little can (now a plastic bottle i think??)

water pumps, t-stats etc come out like brand new each of the too many times ive stripped my engine, and the car sits a while between uses.

Radiator looks good too, and the notorious corrosion that forms on the intake manifold where it blocks the water passage in the back of the head is almost non existent.


11.38@117mph
will go quicker

11.34@121mph
went quicker and faster, just not quick enough.

now being rebuilt with less cam, much less comp, and a turbo.


That's the stuff. 2 x bottles in a Holden or Chev V8, all good. I bought my '57 Chev when it was 35 years old, had original water pump and radiator in it then. Still had it when I sold it about 2 years ago. Always used Castrol inhibiter, nothing else.

_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
_______________________________________________________
If we all had the same (good) taste, who would buy all the Fords?
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