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sorry that it's of a general nature, but i've searched the net and been unable to understand ANY of the info
i need to know how to adjust a 5 y/o LONGAS AIROD converter. facing the front, there is a small recessed screw adjuster at about 2 o'clock which shows a + (plus sign) and an arrow pointing clockwise for + (airbleed?).
there is a larger brass screw adjuster at about 6 o'clock, it's both knurled to finger adjust and has a slot in it to use a screwdriver with. beneath that is a brass tube which runs inside the converter.
there is also a "black box" which displays lights for rich, lean, idle, gas start and accel. looks like the brand is GASTECH
i would like to know what the screws do ( i understand they are "idle" and "sensitivity" ) and in which order they should be tackled. car runs well, but the info online is so general or secretive, i think i'm better off asking the experts here ;-)
t/y in advance, johnny
ps it's working well after i cleaned out the wax in the converter and adjusted it to approx where it was set
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not sure of that particular brand, but the screw adjuster on the converter is the idle adjustment , and the larger brass tuning button which can be moved with fingers and locked in place with flathead screw driver in between the converter and the top hat is the "on demand power valve" if you like. this is set to run optimally at 2500 rpm generally and is expected to deliver gas / air ratio in a linear response from this 2500 set point, either up or down in rpm..its just a reference point.. however ,i got my WB statesman with its 2.6 diff set at 2000 rpm because the diff is so tall... put NEW NGK 0.8 gap plugs in it and take it to a gas analyser bloke and spend the $50 for a Gas anaylser test which they will adjust these two settings. then don't touch it after 12 months and take it back annually for adjustment again. if you want to do a backyard job, adjust the on demand power valve at 2500 rpm until you smell unburnt gas out the exhaust pipe, then back it off about 1/8 turn.... Edited by user Saturday, 30 April 2011 12:20:33 AM(UTC)
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Old holdens brought on the spot, quick decision, cash paid. |
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Rank: Member
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t/y adam, not sure if i described it sufficiently
the large brass screw cannot be locked in place. it has an O ring fitted to its shaft and a spring to "lock it" in place, or to hold its adjustment. it enters the converter vertically, i.e. if you are looking at the converter face on, it's at 6 o clock and screwing it in will mean the needle moves towards the bonnet,i.e. upwards ( if that makes any sense )or towards the centre and the top of the converter
any thoughts ?
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yeah, not sure about that one... |
Old holdens brought on the spot, quick decision, cash paid. |
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quote:
Originally posted by knute
t/y adam, not sure if i described it sufficiently
the large brass screw cannot be locked in place. it has an O ring fitted to its shaft and a spring to "lock it" in place, or to hold its adjustment. it enters the converter vertically, i.e. if you are looking at the converter face on, it's at 6 o clock and screwing it in will mean the needle moves towards the bonnet,i.e. upwards ( if that makes any sense )or towards the centre and the top of the converter
any thoughts ?
One of these? http://www.longasitalia....=item_detail&prod_id=19
* The smaller one is low speed/idle bypass adjustment (how much LPG goes into the engine regardless of vacuum signal) * The larger one with the spring and O-ring seal is the sensitivity adjustment (how much LPG to add based on vacuum signal) * If you have another ajustment in the low pressure gas line to the carby I think thats just the power-valve for fine adjustment of the sensitivity. This guy seems to know what hes talking about. http://www.xfalcon.com/f...?22732-LPG-Tuning-Steps
So does this dude. http://www.fordmods.com/post597545.html
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