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Joined: 20/03/2008(UTC)
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G'day fella's,
Just wondering on how each of you has approached your resto. I am curious about the order of how to attack it. Chassis, engine then body is the approach I have been told is the best way. Any ideas on the best way you have found to attack such a big job coz to be honest I am a little over whelmed as to where I should start.
Cheers
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 19/01/2011(UTC)
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Suppose it depends on having a chassis or not...
:-)
I'm doing the body then the engine/driveline, but i admit to doing bits on the latter when i havent the time to spend a whole day on the former. |
Stepping stone or stumbling block...your choice |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 6/11/2007(UTC)
Posts: 177
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Im doing a HG now, I decided to start with engine/trans out-subframe off first. Respray firewall and subframe, rebuild front end, detail engine and reinstall. Then ill worry about body. My reasoning is it will driveable for longer and not just a whole lot of parts on the floor, and will keep me motivated!
Bruvpig- I have the bracket you seek. If you like, send your email address to me 0401 521 373 and ill send you some pics. Im retarded when it comes to loading pictures on here, man I wish I could!
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Rank: Member
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excellent, just sent a TXT. I have your exhaust photos too
Brian |
Stepping stone or stumbling block...your choice |
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Rank: Member
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Joined: 19/08/2008(UTC)
Posts: 43
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Hi Blue
I have a HZ that I've been doing for 3 years now. If I was to start again, I would do the panel and paint work first and then the engine and driveline.
Reason being, for this, I built the engine and front end first and then waited a good 12 months for panel and paint to be done. Engine was fired when first rebuilt and has now sat for near on 18 months.
Reason against doing body work first, with the engine and drive line, all the new goodies come together very quickly and motivation is high while the bits come together. Waiting on panel and paint after first stripping down could take the shine off a resto very quickly.
Anyway, either way, keep the finished picture in mind and all will go well. Good luck.
Roy
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Rank: Veteran
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Joined: 25/11/2008(UTC)
Posts: 1,496
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the BEST piece of advice i can give is, keep things organised!!!
so, what do i mean by that?
when you pull something off, bag and tag it, weather it's a few of screws or a handfull of bolts just put them in a plastic snap lock bag and write something like "front seat bolts" or "grill screws" unless your got a photographic memory then you'll never remember where them bloody screws came from!
also, take plenty of pics, that'll also help when putting it back together
order, well i always prefer to do the steering and suspension first (and chassis if there's 1) then the panel and paint then inertia then driveline last
just remember this rule
Cheap, Fast, Good - pick two.
If its cheap and its fast - it wont be good.
If its good and its cheap - it wont be fast.
If its fast and its good - it wont be cheap.
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Rank: Veteran
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Joined: 22/05/2005(UTC)
Posts: 1,384
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Where I work, that is what we do. Resto's on older cars.
Bagging and tagging is very important and saves a lot of frustration later on.
Have a read and follow some other resto's that have been done and have a look at their pictures and information. Even if it is not the same model as your car, you will see what areas they did in order, and you will understand what worked and what didn't by what they say.
Having a plan is important, and choosing your scheme is important too. Think what colour scheme outside and inside you are doing, and ask yourself if it is going to go together, or if you are trying to put two totally different trends together on the one car. All classic, all retro, all modern, all race, all original, all Euro, all freestyle etc. Don't mix opposing styles, unless it is what you want and you are ready to face the negative opinions of most people seeing the car when it is finished. It may be their opinion and you don't care, but they will still voice it.
Panel and paint is the biggest time killer. Any rush job is a poor job. Minimum 3 months for a proper job, body and paint only. That will end up costing $40,000 if they work on it every day.
It is always good to get underneath done first and suspension. That way the body is always on wheels. This enables all aspects of the rebuilt to be done on the correct level from there. |
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Take lots of photos. Tag and bag. With digital cameras these days photos are so easy.if you're not up with it get some of the kids around will help.you with the technology. You may be able to recognise the part and where it goes now but 6 months or 6 years and 1000s more parts with it may be a different story. When taking photos of parts or pieces, take some shots of the part relative to where it belongs or where it fits. Download you photos on to a site just for car restoration. you don't need others sorting your photos and accidently deleting things and moving them where you wont find them. No one is going to be interested in photos of your greasy dirty black car parts so dont mix them with the family photos. Buy an assortment of sizes and shapes of zip bags but decent ones ie GLAD bags sizes from little ones the size of a business cards for screws etc and up to A4 and even bigger and an assortment of sizes and colours of TEXTAS. permanant markers. Write on the bag the part name with brief ID like Left or Right or top or bottom, back or front etc add screws, nuts, bolt or small parts in the smaller bags in with the part. if you need any more detail write it on a piece of paper and put it in the bag. Little note pads are handy for that. If you don't clean it there and then, just from a simple inspection just note on the bag the condition.ie to be repaired or replace or use as is ok or whatever rather than go and pull it all out of the bag to re-inspect it again later. Never mind just put it in the bag and tag it. Make it clear what the part came off, YOUR car or some other one. I think if you write something simple like the last 4 digits of the body number of the car on the bag or if from somewhere else a name or something to remind you where it came from.. so at least you will know WHAT part came off YOUR car or where you got it from. Keep the parts off your car separate from other car parts.you gather for the restoration. If you acquire spares or parts for your resto put them in a separate bag and some clue as to where it came from. IF you get another part that may suit your resto and you think it is best and better than the one off your car mark the part or bag so ie write 1st on it and write on your original part 2nd. It just means that if you have a part marked 2nd that means you have a better one somewhere hopefully marked 1st. .No need to mark all your original parts with 1, 2 or 3 etc unless you bring another one home that you may think is better. When deciding to replace or substitute a part its much easier when they're side by side.DON'T throw away any parts untill the resto is finished or you are sure you have the correct replacement even then depending on the project best to keep the originals for a sample to copy or replace or compare. Parts you have done work on and are ready to go back on the car put them away from all parts not ready. Once a part is ready to go on the car put any spares like that part to the side so in effect anything in that heap are only spares and you you will know you have a part sorted ready to go on the car and no need to sort them anymore, they are spares. The polystyrene boxes with lids that brocolli or other similiar vegies come in are very good for storing parts. A brief Mark on the box of its contents. Go to you fruit and vegie man and he may help you there. Sounds like a lot to do but no, before you start dismantling anything go and get those zip bags, textas, note pads and boxes. spend a few dollars first up...you won't be sorry and the project will go much more pleasurable if you're not trying to find parts or remember where they fit. ...all the best of luck....Jack
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