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Can someone help. I have had many cars that would NOT start, but have till now not experienced this. Last night we pulled into the drive way at about 10;30 or so, turned the ignition off and removed the key as you normally would and about to get out of the car to realise the engine is still running. After fiddling for a while the key would turn ok, you could remove it ok, but the engine kept running. I thought if I disconnected the battery Yes that would probably stop it running, but that would'nt help me know what the problem is and how to rectify it. Being a member of the NRMA we got the NRMA bloke out to help. He dismantled the ignition lock and switch to find the end of the small shaft between the two was broken off and therefore the key would operate all the usual ignition functions but did not operate the ignition switch. the part that turned the power on and off and engaged the starter motor. We now have the 2 parts of the ignition operating separately, using a screwdriver to operate the ignition switch while the key continues operating all the other usual functions and so the car continues to function as usual, but not an ideal setup. Now what are my options. Is this something I can repair myself ? just mechanical, a matter of removing and replacing parts or do we start getting into the electronics and computer side of the ignition ?. Thanks in advance for any help and enlightenment....Jack.
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Go & see a locksmith - this is a very common problem with them, and requires a new barrell, which is around $50 trade, coded to your key.
For future reference, never disconnect the battery to try to stop a car - the alternator will keep it running, and without a battery voltage reference, the voltage regulator won't know what to do, and the charging voltage can spiral out of control - damaging sensitive electronic equipment.
If it happens to you again, pull out the fuel pump fuse, let the engine stop, and then disconnect the battery by removing one of the terminals.
There are other ways to stop it - you can pull out the EFI relay in a VN-VS, disconnect the coil low-tension (if you can get to it) on a single coil motor (like a carby Holden, or an EFI 5L) etc, but all EFI cars have a fuel pump fuse that would be relatiely easy to find, so that's the simplest rule of thumb. |
Cheers,
Mick
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Rank: Member
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Thanks commodorenut, I am very grateful for your help with this. I'll see a locksmith today. Just a question though. At the moment as I have been using the screwdriver to operate the ignition switch there are a couple of quite distinct clicks when you twist the screwdriver , but the next click to actually engage the starter is not that easy. If that is the case being that much more difficult to turn the switch is replacing just the barrell and not the switch as well going to resolve the original problem. What I'm saying is if this switch is so difficult to turn why would'nt a new barrell break just the same as this one has.....all the best regards...Jack.
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It will feel tough with the screwdriver, as you don't have the additional leverage of the key housing to work against. |
Cheers,
Mick
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Thanks commodorenut with this. I spoke to the locksmith about my VY ignition and he said Yes book it in, it wiil cost about $140 to replace the barrell. HK style ignition locks I have managed OK in the past using the pin to remove the barrell. Pretty basic stuff. A friend informs me it is much the same idea for the VY only using a bit thicker pin or tool. Is that the case ?. Its just I have'nt had to work on a VY before so I'm a bit unsure what to expect. What do you think?....all the very best regards ...Jack
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Yeah, it's the same principle - turn the key around to "on" and insert a pin (I use a nail bent over at right angles, as there's not enough room to put it in straight).
With the pin pushed in, you should be able to draw the barrell out, using the key as your handle.
$140 would be the locky doing the whole lot - drive in, drive out, which is reasonable. |
Cheers,
Mick
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