Just thinking to get a VF V6 but the other day seen a VE ute with oil all over the tailgate and blowing smoke and seen some with a lot of carbon build up in the exhaust i nearly fell over backwards at how much one dude down the road has, my 5.7L is clean as with 200,000 KM on it.
I have heard of the little 3.0L V6 using oil but theis are 3.6L

In 10,000 km my 5.7L would use about only 1mm on the stick. and had 2 V6 ecotec they both used from the top of the stick to the bottom in around 6000 km that's just the way they are and i see that as fine.

But what does your alloytec get, any problems.

My mechanic father in law recons all engines use oil and does not believe me mine only uses about 1 mm and i had a 3.3L XC falcon once and it never used oil at all. and i am not plodding around town doing short trips i am on the highway and up them at times.

Keep the oil changes regular and it will last forever. Leave it too long and allow it to clog the tiny oil galleries and it will expire very quickly.

Just changed the oil on my old VY SS and found in the oil filter crusty hard sluge, motor has done 195000km it did 6000km and let the change go to 9 months this time, never done that before but i looked into the oil filter and seen this crap so i cut the filter and pulled out the paper yep hard carbon sluge caked in it at spots.
Hmm ? is it because i have been using E10 maybe and unleaded 91 50/50 mainly and have just used a tank of shell 98 that it has cleaned out the crud from the piston and rings. even the drain pan had grit in it, no metal just carbon.
I thought to use the 98 just to clean the injectors mainly as she has be just driven around town with just short trips mostly.

Is E10 a carbon cleaner or more likely carbon creator on pistons and rings, i thought E10 is cleaner on the valves than 91 unleaded.
But E10 is a bit harsher on your oil and may lead to more sluge build up as more fuel should enter the sump by rights if she uses more fuel i would think.

I used Valvoline XLD 15W-40 API SL/CF
I have seen sludge before in others engines before with 1 to 2 year old oil in them but never like mine with carbon and my oil was quite clean not filthy or smell bad.
My elder brother has always changed his oil once a year like and he has got 440,000km out of one 4 cyl hilux 4X4 and 500000 km out of a V6 mitsubishi 4X4 he had a XB 351 and a 173 HQ and could not kill them even when he tried to.

Alloy blocks ? what about the Leyland 4.4L V8 back in 1972 i think they used SE oil.
And what about the old dirt bikes XR 600 etc they ran API SE and they got hot and use a lot of oil if they did get a flogging.

I have a 2012 Aurion and they put Valvoline armour in it and Toyota say to use SL or SM 9 months 15000 km is the go. i don't like the armour oil with the test i did with it on a DRZ400 as the metal on the magnet was more than i have ever seen even even using XLD was better.

quote:

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Originally posted by antoni
Hi in a motor bike you would use API SG or JASO ma.
SL SM are not for bikes with wet clutches...
10-40 or 20-50W oil...
Tony....

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Thanks Tony true but.
Road bike is one thing, dirt bike is another and how you use it. the problem with the wet clutch is mainly to do with some friction modifiers they have be it SL SM etc.
I use the diesel Caltex Delo 400 oil in my Husaberg but change it every 200 or 300 KM for the last 5 years no problems with it. the amount of fuel and dirt contamination on a thumper dirt bike and how i ride does not need SG oil, changing the oil more so is best value for dollar in this case.

I used the DRZ 400 bike to experiment with new oils that i put in my cars as the oil changes as the years go on, you find one good oil then they change the formula bringing out a new so called improved type only it's not as good as the oil type they had before in fact.

I remember back in the 80's when there was a new flash oil came out called GTX oils ain't oils, they sure were not and that stuff was hell on cams shafts in them days.

I have always used auto transmission oil in my 2 strokes gear box some people spin out at that but it's the best thing on a dirt bike as you just change it more so than with syn or any other as they don't have a oil filter and contamination is the number one problem. one mate who spun out said he used only syn oil and thought it that good he never need changed it, well we all droped our oil after a ride and he had a little mound of metal about 1 cm high he had the bike from new and was about 9 months oil. i said there you go bro that's why we all use auto trans oil. and i have been riding dirt bikes for 41 years now.

I cut the oil filter and found it's only carbon no metal at all, the only thing i can put it down to is using the Shell 98 so it must be cleaning all the carbon off the pistons.

I have seen the far fetched ads on TV with a fully caked valve, that's total buls*** as somthing would be very wrong for a valve to be that caked up. but from what i have seen unleaded is very good even 91 compared to lead fuel but my bikes have always run on the 95 before 98 and 98 when it came out and have seen bugger all carbon on pistons or combustion chamber i had 2 Suzuki RMX 250's and changed piston and rings at about 10,000km and just wiped the combustion chamber clean with a rag, sure a colour stain but no carbon after wiping it away. the first RMX i did not even take the head off as the barrel could be lifted off with the head saving buying a gasket.