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jimmyd Offline
#1 Posted : Wednesday, 20 May 2015 12:14:04 AM(UTC)
jimmyd

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I have a VN rally car with a VL manual steering rack. Went over a bit of hole on the last event and resulted in going from zsero play to 1 -2 cm of play. from the bottom up, ball joints, rack and universls look good and have no play, from the top the steering boss also has no play. Is there anything internal in the collumn or have I missed something? Any other sugeestions on where to look? THANKS
commodorenut Offline
#2 Posted : Wednesday, 20 May 2015 1:36:19 AM(UTC)
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The column has a collapsible section - you shouldn't get any play in it, but it would be worth holding the bottom of the column (engine bay end) with vise grips and giving the wheel a wiggle to see if there's any play in the column.

Also, universals can look good, but still be shagged inside - so use a helper to rock the wheel side to side & check them carefully.
Cheers,

Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
jimmyd Offline
#3 Posted : Tuesday, 26 May 2015 10:58:43 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Mick

You were right there is a sneaky UV just after the fire wall directly underneath the brake booster and clutch cable, and looks like it is the first linkage on the column

So group, I am now after advice

would the consensus be to
1. remove the Steering column and replace the universal on the bench and the re install
2. remove the brake booster and try and replace the universal in place
3. take it to a steering specialist, open my wallet and say "fix this"
4. any other suggestions

Never done a job on any of my cars like this before so after a some guidance

Thanks
commodorenut Offline
#4 Posted : Sunday, 31 May 2015 9:55:25 PM(UTC)
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The steering uni joints aren't hard to do - but you do need patience.
If you can change suspension bushes, then you can do these yourself at home.

Best bet is to remove the column, which is not not hard - the most difficult part is the bolt from the tab on top of the column, into the pedal brace - but by VN I think this became a nut with a stud, so it's much easier to do.

To get the old unis out, I use a ball-joint spreader as a drift, so I can tap the opposing side of the joint, to force the cups back out, and thus release the uni from the coupling. Then simply use a bench vise to wind in the new U-cups (this is why it's not really an on-car job).
Cheers,

Mick
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Judge a successful man not on how he treats his peers, but on how he treats those less fortunate.
jimmyd Offline
#5 Posted : Monday, 1 June 2015 10:40:03 PM(UTC)
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Again, thanks Mick

I have already removed the column and have been to the wreckers and got the VN replacement "middle" bit, and was wondering the best way to replace the VL coupling at the base of the new one or the VN coupling at the top of the old one, so thanks for the tip
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