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Hi Byron (and anyone else with comments on this...)
You have an overlander, right? Is it still fitted with the auto, or is it a manual?
I'm slowly working through the initial plans for one of these... I'll either buy an original overlander ($$), a copy (often come in manual), or I'll have one built up ($$).
But... I'm interested in sand/beach driving. So, if you've got the auto, how do they go on sand? I know that smaller modern "toy" 4wd's struggle with autos, but I'm curious to know how a 30 year old auto goes behind the 308.
Any overheating or slippage problems? People have told me the overlander combination was an awesome 4wd... Any thoughts or comments much appreciated!
Cheers,
Jason.
ozjason at yahoo . com
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As far as I know all genuine Overlanders were 308, TH400. There's a HJ wagon for sale in Newcastle if you're interested. Haven't had mine for very long, but autos always have superior tractability in 2WD and 4WD vehicles, that is their power delivery is m
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I also used to have an MQ Patrol ute that I converted to a 302 Chev and TH400 auto. It was awesome anywhere except if you wanted engine braking at crawl speed. The only downfall though was even though it was originally a 4-litre petrol, it still only had
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Byron,
Thanks for your comments - much food for thought in there. I have been told the Patrol chassis was the better option (over a land cruiser). Current proposed specs would be Patrol chassis, HJ body, HQ or HJ 308. (Chassis and body have to be
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No, use a 1988 onwards GQ chassis and a VN-VSIII EFI engine. If you insist upon a carbied 308, simply build a 308 to VL specs (you only need a letter from the reconditioner to say it's built to VL specs) and use VL accessories in a 1988 GQ chassis. It's r
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Sorry to include myself in this convo - but any thoughts on how hard it would be to create a "HR overlander"? I've got a ute I'm about to start playing with and the idea has crep into my head a number of times. Any feedback much appreciated!
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From my experience with autos while I agree with a lot of the remarks of Byron, I did find autos do have a problem when starting from standstill against a object like with all wheels deep in sand so a wedge formed in front of them. Autos tend to just slip
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John, I've found the opposite, but having said that you need the right torque converter. With an auto you can easily sit on the point at which the converter begins to feed drive to the transmission, and avoid wheelspin better. You can achieve this with a
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Range rover chassis and running gear. You can buy a complete range rover for $1500. Unfortunately you've got to keep the crappy gearbox, as range rovers are constant 4WD (with the centre diff), and you can't get free-wheeling hubs for the front. You could
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From my (unexperienced and uneducated) perspective, the two big "for and against" for manual/auto were:
Manual: No slippage and 100% power at the wheels. Difficult gear changes.
Auto: Constant power with no gear change loss. Slippa
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I am fairly keen to go for a pre-pollution carbied 308, mainly from the breakdown perspective. I know EFI is probably more reliable, but if I'm stuck somewhere away from help, I can't get an EFI going, but I probably can get a carby going. Perhaps that
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Byron I used to get mine into some ridiculous positions and have pros and cons either way. Another thing that stops them is a particularly large rock or two in the wrong place, or stuck in a gully, especially if the temperature is very high and the transm
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Hi hrmad.
I would say if you are going to look at keeping the HR ute the same length go with the Range Rover chassis as all other chassis will have to cut and shortend through the mid section. Also you can go up to a 350 chev with the rover box and diffs
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Thanks for the comments everyone!
Byron - do you mean the 1JZ series supra motors or the 7MG series motors?
Cheers,
Brad.
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Marks 4wd make heavy duty 5 speeds that are available with chev bellhousings. No idea if it will fit, i hope so though.
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You can get lockable torque converters, that can be locks up with a switch. As I siad. i've had both manual and auto V8 4WD's, and the auto is much better on the beach, but they suffer from lack of engine braking on the real steep crawling terrain (unless
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I agree the auto is better in a lot of circumstances but I still think that if I were going into real tiger country 500k from help I would go manual. Too much expensive and delicate machinery hanging down below and dependent on oil feed and temperature.
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