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Hi guys after some info, I need to decide what motor to put into the EK wagon project, it will be a daily driver, and tow a trailer most days (6x4) then one or two trips away each year for holidays with a caravan, It will be running a trimatic and 3.08 course spline slippery diff, but i have had conflicting stories as to what motor to use red 186, red 202, or blue 202?? Can anyone shed some light or suggestions as to the best move here? I would really appreciate the help
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I'd use a red 202 (extra torque to tow the van and no pollution requirements if it is an HQ block) with blue 202 crank and a Black VK Injection head with the VK injection.
Cheers...Dave
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the toughest motor as proved over many years as conversions in landrovers,toyota dyna trucks etc etc is the 186..... |
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If you plan to build a fresh motor use a 179 HP block, bore it to 186 (if you start with a 186 or 202 block then bore it you could run into cooling issues when towing due to thin bores - 179 hp block is the same as a 186 just not bored as far to start wit
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Hi Guys.
Oh no !!, the old 179 HP block appears yet again.
A 179 HP block is no better or different to a 179 block that is just cast 179 (the late EH & HD casting). The 179 HP block is NOT made of better cast iron than any later engines.
A 186 bl |
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I built a drag motor several years ago and was considering the hp block as the candidate. After this same discussion we decided to settle it once and for all and put some effort into our conclusion. At my disposal was the Metrology Lab at Mitsubishi where
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Hi Guys.
Knowing how GM-H's quality control was like at the time,I think maybe that the nickle content varied alot from month to month.
It wasn't until they opened there new grey iron foundry in 1967, that they really had a handle on well made cast |
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If you are going to modify an engine for extra hp, there is absolutely no doubt that you should use a early 202 blue motor with an EFI black motor head, or an aftermarket head. You are already in front with a later model block, 12 port head and the extra |
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Seeing as the blue and black motors have 3300 (or 3.3 can't remember) cast into the side of the block I doubt you are going to kid anyone its a early red motor. However I believe the black and blue motors are not as "hard" as the the early motors, they s
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Hi Guys.
I can't agree with this notion that the newer or later blocks are 'softer' than earlier versions.
I've run an automotive workshop for nearly 30 years & have been in the industry for over 35 years. The one thing that I've noted over time is |
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Johnperth. I don't think you understood what I was saying re the side of the block. Have a look at what is on the side of a 149.... Blue/black rods are not quite the same as an XU-1, but close. They actually have bigger rod bolts than XU-1's. |
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Well i would have to bow to Terry's experience but I have stripped about 5 blue or black motors and every one of them had broken rings and/or piston lands.
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Hi Johnperth.
That's the same as we found the older red sixes, usually abused badly maintained & often overheated several times in their lives. The pistons & rings always suffer, but my point is that the Blue motor blocks are no softer (ie more badly w |
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does it have to be an old six? what about a Buick V6 or a rodeo V6? stock standard they will tow your caravan without breaking a sweat. i know some people will say "there crap motors" but mine did over 500,000k's, 300,000 k's was with the dreaded VN
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You are 100% correct that the VN-VY V6 or whatever variant is always going to be a better engine than an old Holden 6. But if you're on a budget, that stuff is far too expensive, not to buy but to fit to an EK. I can often buy good running red 173's out o |
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Hi Guys, Sorry for bringing this up again, but I too have an EK wagon project the same as HQLDEN originally posted. And basically from what I can gather with Motor-options v $$, a few things have come up.
$ The Scrooge Option = 149 (is under the 15% m |
666 |
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Hi 666.
No they do not, unfortunately the main bearing journals on the 202 are a larger diameter.
You could machine them down, I'm not sure if the rear main seal area also has to be turned down. If you do this then you must use a neoprene seal type |
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Hmmm,
Bugger,
This this would mean the best (Yobo) upgrade from a 138 would be a 186. Unless Collapsible Steer was fitted (then go 202). Would machining the 202 Crank cost or weaken it too much ? Do the Blue/Black Conrods interchange 186 ? And if |
666 |
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The other thing is an upgrade from 138 to 149 is only 11 cubes, hardly worth the effort. The 149 is not that much better in any other way either and is worse in some respects.
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