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#1 Posted : Friday, 17 June 2005 8:28:40 PM(UTC)
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Hi, I am starting my project HG GTS, first job is subframe removal, really just looking for any tips which may prove helpful in separating the front frame with as little drama as possible. Engine and box are out and panels are off. First question is should I jack it at the sills just enough to raise the sills from standard height then unbolt the mounting points and remove front complete with crossmember and wheels? Any help in form of advice with my project welcome
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#2 Posted : Friday, 17 June 2005 10:37:03 PM(UTC)
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That method works OK. The bolts that attach it to the underbody members can be real mothers to remove though, as they are usually rusted to buggery. Rare spares have replicas of these.
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#3 Posted : Saturday, 18 June 2005 5:03:06 AM(UTC)
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Thanks for the tip, that hadn't even crossed my mind yet.
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#4 Posted : Saturday, 18 June 2005 6:43:27 AM(UTC)
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use LOTS of inox
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#5 Posted : Saturday, 18 June 2005 7:05:03 AM(UTC)
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thanks, have done a search, inox appears to be a kiwi version of CRC/WD40? Without starting a new thread, this car is a 186S/Auto, appears to have been Trimatic(came sans motor/box), so because I have the Trimatic console I would like to stick with it but
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#6 Posted : Saturday, 18 June 2005 8:35:31 AM(UTC)
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Inox is better than WD40. WD40 is a Water Dispersant. Inox is far superior and works heaps better as a penetrant and lubricant
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#7 Posted : Saturday, 18 June 2005 11:21:49 PM(UTC)
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The humped console is for all floor shifts with the spot welded in T-bar mount. Same as Saginaw also. V8 and 6cyl Trimatics are different, but they bolt into the same place as long as they both shift on the same side. The HT/G boxes are manual kickdown li
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#8 Posted : Saturday, 18 June 2005 11:25:24 PM(UTC)
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wow! I really appreciate all that info Byron, thanks a lot
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#9 Posted : Sunday, 19 June 2005 6:57:43 AM(UTC)
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All I would say is to undo and remove the two inner subframe bolts first all the upper firewall bolts second and the outer subframe bolts last and do it with the front wheels still on so this way your not under the car if the bolts decide to give way and
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#10 Posted : Sunday, 19 June 2005 7:00:16 AM(UTC)
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Forgot to add a good set of pin punch's will be very handy when the subframe bolts snap
quote:
Originally posted by Jim Briar Hill
Edited by user Sunday, 19 June 2005 7:01:08 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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#11 Posted : Sunday, 19 June 2005 9:19:07 AM(UTC)
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Thanks Jim, I will keep your tips in mind. I took the replacement frame off the donor car today and it went without a hitch, but it was only put on a few years ago.
Cheers Rick
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#12 Posted : Sunday, 19 June 2005 8:20:04 PM(UTC)
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Hi Guys.

Regarding Byrons comment re- the shifter on the Commodore Tri-Matic being on the wrong side for the HG GTS.

The HT/HG Tri-Matic floor shift boxes were unique at the time, because their shifters ARE on the LH side of the box. I think the rea
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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#13 Posted : Sunday, 19 June 2005 9:20:41 PM(UTC)
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Yes of course. I remeber wondering about this 20 years ago when a mate tried to put a HQ V8 trimatic into a HT ute and he had heaps of problems with the shifter. I think he ended up using a cable shifter to solve the problem.
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#14 Posted : Sunday, 19 June 2005 9:26:57 PM(UTC)
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Thanks Dr Terry, I had an inkling my linkages were on the left but was going to double check and try work out what was going on. Well thats a bonus because I think it will be more simple to fit the electric k/down than try to find linkages, and the box wi
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