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#21 Posted : Wednesday, 6 July 2005 12:51:22 AM(UTC)
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wow, a lot of good info in this thread. i only use bp ultimate (in QLD), premium shell and caltex fuels ALWAYS cause pinging at half throttle when driving home up a big hill, bp ultimate never pings unless i floor it.
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#22 Posted : Thursday, 7 July 2005 8:13:10 AM(UTC)
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Flashlube is a good addative to use $2 a bottle per 50 litres of fuel
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#23 Posted : Sunday, 10 July 2005 12:37:03 PM(UTC)
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I drove across the Nullabor last week and ULP is $1.56 a litre at most places....

The only 98 Octane fuel in WA is BP Ultimate. ALL other PULP is 95/96 Octane (which some BP stations sell alongside ULP/Ultimate98) as BP will not supply 98 Octane PULP t
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#24 Posted : Monday, 11 July 2005 12:20:19 AM(UTC)
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Hi Qute.

Yes, too much ethanol is not good for standard fuel systems. From what I've experienced it makes the rubber components, (o-rings & hoses) which are normally made from nitrile 70 to shrink, causing leaks.

To my knowledge the only mods requir
If at first you don't succeed, just call it Version 1.0
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#25 Posted : Monday, 11 July 2005 6:34:05 AM(UTC)
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Hi Dr Terry,

Thanks for clarifying that for me.

Did you manage to find those Holden 5 speed gearbox ratio's we were talking about a few weeks ago?


Cheers...Dave
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#26 Posted : Tuesday, 23 August 2005 10:13:33 PM(UTC)
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r u kidding! drain the tank and start again it's cheeper mate.don't 4get to replace ur filter.
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#27 Posted : Wednesday, 24 August 2005 12:19:13 AM(UTC)
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hey hg80737

Pinging is directly related to you cars engine tuning and to the octane of the fuel you run. Although the lead levels are lower in Unleaded fuels you should be able to stop the car pinging by running an aditive in the fuel and tuning the c
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#28 Posted : Wednesday, 24 August 2005 7:32:46 AM(UTC)
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Dr Terry,

There's a company in Bundoora Victoria called AM-seal. Clements Avenue, 03 9467 8300, that can supply any size or type of 'O' ring your heart desires. They have charts that tell you what type of rubber you need for any application or solv

Edited by user Wednesday, 24 August 2005 7:33:53 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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#29 Posted : Wednesday, 24 August 2005 6:57:34 PM(UTC)
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My new HP is going in to my UC in about 3weeks time - what fuel do you reccommend i use?? 10:1 compression and built for strength and performance! Although more than likely going to be granny driven!! I ask this as i want to run it in as safely as poss
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#30 Posted : Wednesday, 24 August 2005 10:11:57 PM(UTC)
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Keith,

From the sounds, I had a similar rebuild to my 202 in my LH recently. From my experience:

- With your compression, run a 98 octane fuel. I started out on Shell Optimax, but wasn't using it fast enough (it has a shelf life). My engine dyno
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#31 Posted : Thursday, 25 August 2005 8:32:49 AM(UTC)
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ozjason

I used GTX2 in mine to run in the cam. Dumped it straight away and you should have seen the metal in the oil. Changed the filter and ran it for a further 1500 k's then oil and filter changed. 55000 k's before I got rid of the car and never
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#32 Posted : Thursday, 25 August 2005 8:56:39 AM(UTC)
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When running in a motor, I always put el-cheapo oil in for the first 100 k's.

Then I do an oil/filter change and put in a good but non-friction modified oil.

I drop that at 1,000 k's and keep using good non-friction modified oils until about 5,000

Edited by user Thursday, 25 August 2005 8:57:50 AM(UTC)  | Reason: Not specified

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#33 Posted : Thursday, 25 August 2005 7:05:51 PM(UTC)
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Blu - it wasn't the cost that bothered me. I would have happily paid for decent oil. Engine rebuilder told me that any decent oil has additives (friction modifiers or something), and that would affect the run-in in a bad way, it was only the cheap ones
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#34 Posted : Thursday, 25 August 2005 11:24:46 PM(UTC)
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Im with you too jason - on most of the things you've said!

I intended to run 98, but was wondering if people had different ideas for run in! We have more BP Ultimate up here than you can poke a stick at - there's no shortage!

Also, for run in i was
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#35 Posted : Friday, 26 August 2005 12:50:49 AM(UTC)
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Actually Keith, on the fuel-for-run-in thing... My original engine was still leaded, so I had the best part of a tank full of LRP in the tank when the engine died. It took 12 months to get it rebuilt (don't ask), so not only was the fuel the wrong octan
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#36 Posted : Friday, 26 August 2005 2:05:35 AM(UTC)
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I guess ill be heading off to BP before i put the new motor in i guess!! I normally just run SHELL unleaded in my 202 (it gets really upset with 95,96 or 98 octane), but i guess ill be having a good deal more compression with the HP, so its more of a nec
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#37 Posted : Friday, 26 August 2005 4:09:51 AM(UTC)
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How long will she be off the road while the engine change takes place Keith?

If it is only a couple of days, your 98 should be OK. If it is a few weeks (start the change, go back to work for a few weeks and then finish the job), you'd be better to run
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#38 Posted : Friday, 2 September 2005 5:42:27 AM(UTC)
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Great advice fellas!

The car's only going to be off the road for a day or two while the engine swap is happening! My car sits and does not get started or moved for 2weeks! What is the life of 98 octane fuels??

Don't bag the UC, it might just be th
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#39 Posted : Friday, 2 September 2005 8:37:36 AM(UTC)
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BP or Caltex are the go for me right now. I tried some new Shell95 red-handled thing and the 253 is sluggish. Shell just doesnt cut it !!! And its more that one outlet too.

John
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#40 Posted : Friday, 2 September 2005 9:03:50 AM(UTC)
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Advice to me was that if you can get through a tank of fuel in a month, Shell Optimax is fine. If not, use BP Ultimate, as it supposedly lasts a bit longer.

My understanding, is that 98 octane fuels last a few months, but Optimax has a particularly sh
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