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Hi All,
I have a diff out of a 1 tonne HJ, it had a 253 in it.
Just wondering what it is most likely to be?
I thought only the 308's got the 'upgraded' diff - is that right???
Thanks
Void
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it should be a 10 bolt if its standard, if the centre pops out the front it could have been a banjo. its getting harder to find good 10 bolts for utes these days. And to counter your little saying.. i say, Sticking feathers up your butt does not make you
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Its probably a 3.55 ratio. If you get under your car its stamped on the yoke ring you need to have a damp rag to clean it up. Also have a torch.
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Happy - Are you calling me a chicken!!?? hehe..
crowe - thanks, that's what I was hoping I could do! I am presuming it is a std salisbury rather than a banjo cause it looks bigger than another diff I saw on a tonner but I get a little confused as to w |
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HA! Just went out and had a look - it is going to take more than a damp rag!! An old screwdriver maybe!! Man is there a lot of grit caked on that sucker....
I am thinking I will just jack it and spin the driveshaft while it's out of gear - count the r |
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Uummm, I got the code off the plate on the original ute and it was CM9 or GM9?
I did a google search and someone on another forum said that stood for 4.44:1!? It sure doesn't feel like that?
So I jacked her up and spun the d.shaft.. now I'm even more |
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ALL 1-tonners had 10-bolt's in them. Most were 3.55 or 4.44. Some very rarely had 3.36 in them (like my HZ 308 TH400). If it was a 253 it is about 80% that it will be a 3.55.
As for ratios, you have to jack up both sides and spin both wheels and count |
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Oh, cheers Byron.
I had stands under the diff but could only get to one wheel by myself (obviously)... thanks for your help - again.
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OK, so I managed to have a look on the diff and found these markings (although I couldn't get it all perfectly clean...
On top of the center housing it had - 314(G)5
and on top of the passanger side axel it had stamped in the diff 2o65. but the '6' cou |
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Can't help with those numbers...sorry.
The ratio (if it is still has the original collar) is stamped into the collar behind the rear uni. It turns with the universal joint and, usually, is covered in crud.
You'll probably need a flat-blade screwdriv
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Cheers Dave,
When Crowe said the yoke ring I presume that's what you are talking about... I was just too embarrassed to ask what the hell a yoke ring was!!
I'll have another go at it in the sunlight, tomorrow. I've got most of the thicker junk off t |
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Its a lot easier to just take the plate off the back. Drain the oil first (go for a run so its warm and slippery) and then you can read the ratio straight off the crown wheel. Slip a new gasket in and you have cured the leak it almost certainly would have
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Check its not LSD first by jacking both wheels up and turning one. If they both turn in the same direction its LSD, if they turn in opposite directions its not. Buy the appropriate oil.
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Are the 4 digit numbers the date of manufacture as per engine blocks? With the first 2 the day, letter the month and 4th digit the year? I found those sort of numbers on my diff and assumed it was, in this case the 31st and 20th of July, 1975. BTW, I did
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If all else fails, pull the cover off the back of the diff(if it is a salibury) and the ratio is stamped on the gears.
Scott
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