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Hi all
Just wanted to get some advice on a the following. My 74 HQ runs a very original set up (202) .The only real change from standard is extractors.
The problem I have is that she runs like a dream from idle to full power, but as soon as underbonnet temperatures rise the idle deteriorates badly.
A mechanic mate reckons the problem is vapour lock and that a good place to start would be to insulate the fuel line. Can anybody tell me what the best material to use for this would be?
Also, what other things could I do to help. Someone also suggested runnig an air intake from the air cleaner to to grille to provide cooler air.
Any help would be appreciated
JAke
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Check your fuel cap is correct as from memory the HQ ran vented caps (relief valve)Can't remember if the very late HQ's ran canister return lines and had the sealed fuel cap.
My HJ had a similar problem,but every time i went to fill up i had pressure in
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Mate it cant have anything to do with the charcoal cannister as Hqs dont have these.
They were an emissions thing that came out with the HJ I think
Thanks anyway
Jake
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Hi Jake,
This is the exact symptom I had with the 253 on a hot day. The car just dies in the bum when hot. I first thought vapour lock but the fuel line is at the front of the motor. So its sort of cooler than elsewhere.
I moved onto ignition. Repla
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Hi Trublu
I have a new GT40 on there and leads are fairly new as well. I did notice that the one on the coil has like a white residue on it while all the others are shiny black. Don't know if this is relevant.
The other thing I forgot to mention
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Hmm, now *that* does ring a bell, Jake.
More than ten years ago I was stuck in Mackay with the Torana (202), with similar symptoms. During one of the cyclones, actually... I had to run inland a few days later!
Anyway, while cold, it'd run fantasti
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Hi Oz Jason
I hope I made the white residue thing clear. It is the outside of the lead from the coil to the dizzy that seems to have this white residue on it. On the inside once removed the lead looks shiny new.
But it does look a little suspect that
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Jake,
Are you running a GT40 or a GT40R coil? If you still have the original points dizzy, you'll need to run the R (for Resistor) coil as it will be happy with the 8 or 9 volts your ignition will be feeding it. The non-R coils needs a full 12 volts bu
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Jake,
Sorry mate, I misinterpretted. My white stuff was just inside the hole in the coil where the lead plugged into, and was the result of the lead material breaking down (ie converting into white powder).
Obviously not your problem.
Have you c
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Hi Guys I do have a points dizzy and it has the correct GT40R coil. I replaced the condensor when I changed the points the time before last. The thing is that because the car is only used for special ocasions, the current condensor has been on there for
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I can't say for or against vapour lock, as I'm not sure I've ever experienced it... sorry.
My HQ ute is a very original 202 setup, also. Just after I got it, I converted to electronic ignition, and had the carby and distributor overhauled and setup o
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Hi Jake,
I've only ever experienced vapour lock on Holden V8's but hat doesn't mean it can't happen on a 6.
It may very well be vapour lock (a good auto parts store should be able to get some heat wrap for your fuel line for you) but it may also be
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In terms of heat shielding / avoidance, the last time I was looking for some, VPW Australia had hose heat wrap, which was silvered and velcro'ed to allow putting over hoses in place.
If possible, it might also be worth getting a longer (possibly braide |
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O.K Guys
Thanks for your input. I take your point that this could well be an ignition problem which is good to know. I will just have to check everything on both sides.
When I find the culprit I will let you all know what it was
Thanks
Jake
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I would be surprised if it is vapour lock, one way to tell is to wait for the thing to occur, then pour cold water down the petrol pipe from the pump to the carby. If it starts ok then it is your problem. These lines do get pretty hot and I guess there wi
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Hi John
The cold water idea sounds like a good way to tell. I may well take you up on your offer of insulating tape for the line. But as you say I will wait until it spits the dummy and see if I can confirm it is the problem.
Thanks to everyone who
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are you useing E 10 fuel and not driving it much?
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Hi Jake, I also have a bog stock HQ 202 tri-matic, was suffering the same problem as yours + run on & hard starting when hot, I was also told it was vapour lock, or poor ignition components, bad fuel, incorrect carb settings ect, it wasn't until I spoke t |
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Hi Guys
Just a couple of points. Steve What is E10 fuel? I have not been using it much and the fuel in it at the moment is High octane unleaded that I bought in November.
Second question Monaro 202, would a 3core radiator be a good purchase regardl
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Jake,
It's not simply a matter of old fuel, is it? Some of the performance fuels are known to expire after a month... I've had trouble with this myself. Conking out at an idle, running badly, revs in trouble also. Turned out to be the fact that my
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