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I have owned my SS for many years When I first got it was a body on a frame and not much more.  Over the next few years a picked up bits for it and put it together and repaired it.  then got it on the road and used it a daily driver for many years and did some camping trips in it.  Narrogin Over the years it has been a 253 4spd, a 308 4spd,308 high stalled auto and now it is a 253 powered 5spd manual.After joining this site and talking to some people I decided it was time to clean it up again.So striping pannels and parts began again and the rust started to show it self in the body.  and the grinding and plating began.  Then dent repairs, dents from the inside on the rear quarters. Then I found some more rust. and that is what it is up to now. There are more pics of the SS at http://s174.photobucket....ums/w105/HQ_SS/Our%20SS/Edited by user Sunday, 8 April 2007 5:32:54 PM(UTC)
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 and more rust welded up
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Looks awesome mate. The last section you welded in, did you cut it from a donor car or fabricated the steel yourself?
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Thanks VL05. I made it myself, I have done with all the sections so far.When I had just finished welding the doglegs up. I went up in the shed roof for some chrome trim and found two doglegs I had cut of cars years ago.It would have saved me hours of work If I had found them first.Oh well.
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Haha spewing, just wondering though, how do you protect the underside of the new steel? The side facing the inside of the shell. If you understand what I mean.
Ive heard people normally spray the backside of the steel but wouldnt the paint melt and burn away when welding?
Cheers heaps dude!
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It does melt the paint and it can make it harder to weld when it burns. A pannel beater mate told me that there are paints for it but I have never used them.It shows on the Q. Anywhere you weld it oxidizes the metal which helps rust set in even faster.On the Q this time I am doing what I did on our HR spray every nook and crany with fish oil (after it is painted).Our HR has 1/16 of the rust the Q has so it must have worked on that.My brother two pack blacked the whole underside of the HR when he first got it. That has protected it from that angle.
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Lanox is the preferred poison of many panelbeaters these days Paul. It, apparently, protects better than fish oil and smells better. It is made from Lanolin by the people who make Inox.
Cheers...Dave
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Thanks for that Dave I will check it out.
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I have removed some of the pics from here to speed it up a bit and there are some new pics added at http://s174.photobucket....ums/w105/HQ_SS/Our%20SS/
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POR do a paint suitable for rust repairs, check it out at your auto paint supplier
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Hey good job, Im doing my coupe the same deal, lower pillars inside and out, sill panels, inner sill panel areas, front floor section from donner car, then its on to the scuttle panel, plenum chamber too and the roof, after that i need a boot section, if anyone has a good body shell with a good boot floor, i want one, and after that the rear beaver panel is being replaced on the account of a bogged up rear end
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Itsamint. My work started with just a repaint which exposed some rust, in the usual areas to fix before painting.It looks from your pics like you are serious about getting every bit of rust out of your Monaro.It should look and be great when finished.How long did it take you to find a good front floor section like that.I have two Left hand floors that I cut out of cars years ago but I now need a right hand as well. Im interested to know where you managed to get it.
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More rubbing done on the doors now. Insides painted and outsides primed again and guide coated.  Started to strip the new L/H pannel.  .There are a few more pics here again. http://s174.photobucket....ums/w105/HQ_SS/Our%20SS/
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hi ya A car was being wrecked locally, a hx prem, I bought some bits and pieces for my tonner from the guy, I called him a week later interested in the beaver tail and front pillar he wanted to get rid of the lot so i ended up removing the shell for him for nothing and cut out the bits i wanted before taking to the tip, i noticed the front floor was excellent so i thought, its worthwhile removing to replace the coupes floor. a lot of stuffing around as you know yourself but worth it in the end. I recommend to anyone who wishes to do simular work to get a proper spot weld drill, they work great and makes welding back in easy too.
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Shes looking good now Paul.
I take it that the rain over the last few days hasnt given you any problems with the painting?
Cheers...Dave
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Thanks Dave. It limited the limited time just that bit more. But I managed a couple of layers on the pannels anyway. At least they are not in primer now with the rainy weather here.
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Painted the door blackouts. Cleaned all the door mechs and window regs and assorted nuts bolts etc. Fitted the doors and then fitted locking mechs and window guides and door handles.Its starting to look like a car again.I have added some more pics. http://gallery.oldholden.com/d/137200-2/0080.jpgEdited by user Monday, 21 May 2007 6:12:31 AM(UTC)
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Stripped all the window tint of the door glass and fitted the windows and winder mechs.Refitted doortrims and armrests and front seats after a clean down with GMH Vinyl dressing.My youngest daughter sat in the front seats for the first time today. It slowly geting back together.There are more pics here again. http://gallery.oldholden...m/HQ_SS/SS/0096.jpg.html
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